To pour or to syphon?!? Input NEEDED!

[Chris7687]

Hey guys,
So I have question that I have read and heard contradicting instructions on this topic so I just wanted to get input from you all. When transferring the boiled wort from the kettle to the primary fermenter, do you want to slightly agitate the wort or slowly siphon it careful not to disturb it? So example: is it alright if I pour the wort out of the boiling pot through a mesh bag/filter (to remove loose hops) into a funnel that drains into the fermenter? Or should I only use the racking cane to rack the wort into the fermenter? I know you're not supposed to agitate the wort at some point, can't remember exactly when, but I believe that is after the yeast has been pitched. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Making two batches this weekend and would like to know before I mess anything up.

 

[TyTanium]

Pour.

Best if you cool it first, and pour it cool. Pouring makes splashing, splashing adds oxygen to the beer. The oxygen allows helps the yeast reproduce and make tasty beer flavors.

 

[Jayhem]

The wort needs to be cooled to fermentation temps (60-80F) first but once it is cool you actually NEED to pour it in order to properly aerate it for the yeast to be happy. You do not want to get oxygen into hot wort or into your beer after fermentation but right before you pitch in the yeast you absolutely do want to agitate it well!

 

[NateLTB]

Up until it's in the primary fermenter pour away, after that always use a syphon

 

[Homercidal]

I generally siphon, so as to not transfer any more of the hot break/trub than necessary. Also I'm running it though a CFC, so...

If you use an IC instead, I can't see why pouring would hurt anything. Jus tbe sure to agitate like crazy after wort if cooled and before pitching yeast.

 

[liebertron]

I pump the wort chiller up and down in the boiling wort to force oxygen in. Then whirlpool the wort after it has reached the right temp. Allow the whirlpool to come to a complete standstill and siphon off the side. This way you force air in and leave behind about 90% of the gunk.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

I generally siphon, so as to not transfer any more of the hot break/trub than necessary.

i also do this after chilling the wort, but i then aerate with a pump and airstone. before i used the pump to aerate, i would pour through a strainer, allowing it to splash and foam up. the aeration part is quite important, whichever way you do it.

 

[jldc]

I pump the wort chiller up and down in the boiling wort to force oxygen in.

IMO this is a bad idea.

At best, it's a waste of time because hot wort cannot hold dissolved gasses in solution. At worst, you're inducing hot side aeration which can degrade the quality of the beer.

Doing it after chilling will work very well to add oxygen to the wort.

L

 

[unionrdr]

I think the biggest reason for aerating is replacing the dissolved o2 that boiling drives off. I pour the chilled wort through a fine mesh strainer. Dito with the top off water. Then stir roughly with my paddle for 5 minutes straight. I get 3-5" of foam this way. And OG always comes out dead on or close.

 

[skimo281]

This might be a dumb question but since your going to siphon it it later wouldnt it be easier just to pour it?

 

[tre9er]

Just make sure however you do it, that the beer is VERY oxygenated prior to pitching your yeast.

 

[Chris7687]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Think I'm going to pour from kettle to carboy, through a mesh bag or very fine strainer. Give it a shake/swirl and pitch the yeast. Making some Irish Red Ale and possibly Light Ale (MoreBeer extract kit) this weekend. Going to bottle my Columbus IPA! Going to be a busy weekend!

 

[Homercidal]

This is my opinion, but I think that if you are going to pour, just pour it in. Having to mess with a strainer like that in my experience is a hassle. They tend to clog up quickly.

 

[tre9er]

This is my opinion, but I think that if you are going to pour, just pour it in. Having to mess with a strainer like that in my experience is a hassle. They tend to clog up quickly.

This. I tried this and the strainer clogged isntantly. You can crash the FV later and then carefully siphon to secondary or bottling bucket/keg and you'll leave most of the trub behind.

 

[Jayhem]

If you take out all the trub before primary fermentation you will lose some of the hop profile since trub after boiling is mostly pieces of hops.

 

[Chris7687]

Jayhem - touche.... I will just do what the other above mentioned and carefully transfer it to my obttling bucket later. I personally dont care if there is stuff floating in my beer, as long as it taste/drinks good.

What is the stuff people add to the beer (gelatin stuff) that coagulates the trub a little better? Does it have any affect on taste? Is it worth it to even use?

 

[unionrdr]

I'm one of those that doesn't use any of that stuff,but on the other hand,I do use a high flocculation yeast. If using a medium to low flocculation yeast,then you might want to use a fining agent. Otherwise patience will do the same job.
Knox gelatin is what's being used as a clarifier. It was about 1/2 packet in something like 2C luke warm water. You don't want it to set up.

 

[Transamguy77]

Jayhem - touche.... I will just do what the other above mentioned and carefully transfer it to my obttling bucket later. I personally dont care if there is stuff floating in my beer, as long as it taste/drinks good.

What is the stuff people add to the beer (gelatin stuff) that coagulates the trub a little better? Does it have any affect on taste? Is it worth it to even use?

Or you could just primary longer, if it sits for 3 or4 weeks it will all settle out anyway.

 

[unionrdr]

Another reason I like bucket fermenters. I can use a large diameter fine mesh strainer over the top of my FV. More surface area than the lil strainer in those big funnels.

 

[Yooper]

If you take out all the trub before primary fermentation you will lose some of the hop profile since trub after boiling is mostly pieces of hops.

You don't get more hop profile by allowing hop particles to remain in the primary. Once the wort is cooled, the hops are "used up" so to speak. In fact, in light lagers you may notice a slight vegetal character like grassiness in beers that had a ton of hops left in primary but certainly no more hop character.

I don't strain my wort much at all, just enough to keep stuff from clogging up my pump. But for light lagers, I will.

 

[NordeastBrewer77]

If you take out all the trub before primary fermentation you will lose some of the hop profile since trub after boiling is mostly pieces of hops.

no you won't.

What is the stuff people add to the beer (gelatin stuff) that coagulates the trub a little better? Does it have any affect on taste? Is it worth it to even use?

you could use irish moss or whirlfloc in the boil to aide in clarification. its a protein coagulant, and will help coagulate during cooling (cold break) and some in the fermenter. it helps a little, i use it, although in my batches that i don't use it in i still get very clear beer. i think the next quote is a much better way to ensure clear beer.

Or you could just primary longer, if it sits for 3 or4 weeks it will all settle out anyway.

i really think this^ is why my beers are nice and clear. i skip the moss/whirlfloc sometimes and notice no difference in clarity.

 

[Homercidal]

Getting a good hot break (good hard boil) and cold break (rapid chilling) can help make a clear beer. Some ingredients affect clarity, and you can add Irish Moss, etc. in the boil, or gelatin in the fermenter to help too.

I believe that hops and hot/cold break are generally large enough, and haevy enough to settle out pretty quickly in the primary or secondary/keg.

You can also cold crash your primary/secondary/keg to speed up the clarification process at the end of the fermentation.

The best advice is to RDWHAHB.