To much honey

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DrWizzard

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So this is my first time trying to make mead and i baught the craft a brews kit. But in my hast to give it a try i put 40ozs volume of honey and not waight. I also added my yeast dry. Is there anything i should expect other then a potentially super sweet brew. Should i be more carful degassing. Or am i worrying to much. Thank you gor any help
 
40 fluid ounces of honey is roughly 60 ounces by weight. [+20oz]
You can transfer to a bigger fermenter & add 20oz [weight] honey plus water up to 2gal
or split the batch diluting both with about a quart of water each.
My math could def be off but you get the idea...
 
40 fluid ounces of honey is roughly 60 ounces by weight. [+20oz]
You can transfer to a bigger fermenter & add 20oz [weight] honey plus water up to 2gal
or split the batch diluting both with about a quart of water each.
My math could def be off but you get the idea..
Your math is spot on i went over it wile at work but doing some more research i think it will turn out ok it wont be a semi sweet anymore. I just did the first degassing and added some nutrients it seemed extra gassy in comparison to the videos i watched. So if it all gos right it will be a real sweet and have a bit more carbination then normal. I also dont have the equipment to set up another jug. Seem like it would be hood to have a back up incase i mess up again.
 
Your math is spot on i went over it wile at work but doing some more research i think it will turn out ok it wont be a semi sweet anymore. I just did the first degassing and added some nutrients it seemed extra gassy in comparison to the videos i watched. So if it all gos right it will be a real sweet and have a bit more carbination then normal. I also dont have the equipment to set up another jug. Seem like it would be hood to have a back up incase i mess up again.
I forgot pictures
 

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You may have stall issues anyways by the high gravity causing yeast stress & osmotic pressure. You'll still be able to split the batch if it stalls early. What type of yeast are you using & what temperature are you fermenting at?
 
You may have stall issues anyways by the high gravity causing yeast stress & osmotic pressure. You'll still be able to split the batch if it stalls early. What type of yeast are you using & what temperature are you fermenting at?
D47 and as far as temp my apartment fluctuates between 60-70 give or take. Weve also have had a tone of rain fall in the last month so humidity is high not sure if thats a factor or not.
 
Humidity won't bother it. That's probably a good temp range for the yeast in this case. The slightly cooler temps will slow down their metabolism so they don't try to go too hard & fast creating off-flavors. D47 has an alcohol tolerance of about 15% but can be fragile and with your higher gravity it may or may not reach there. If you have a hydrometer check the gravity every week or so for progress [be sure to sanitize all equipment & you can gently pour the sample back in to the fermenter]. 2 weeks with the same reading and the yeast has quit. It WILL stall.... it's a matter of when.
 
Humidity won't bother it. That's probably a good temp range for the yeast in this case. The slightly cooler temps will slow down their metabolism so they don't try to go too hard & fast creating off-flavors. D47 has an alcohol tolerance of about 15% but can be fragile and with your higher gravity it may or may not reach there. If you have a hydrometer check the gravity every week or so for progress [be sure to sanitize all equipment & you can gently pour the sample back in to the fermenter]. 2 weeks with the same reading and the yeast has quit. It WILL stall.... it's a matter of when.
Well dang mabey i should pick up another carboy and split the batch. That or i get a super sweet tasying mead it seems
 
One thing you'll find as you get further into this hobby...
You can never have enough fermenters
Man theres a good meme somewere in there. Well time to see if theres a homebrew store close to home. If not then my first brew will be a good batch to try back flavering or maybe age it with some home made jam
 
Good news there was a brewing storeand i did a gravity test its about 1.5 if i tested it right so still a bit high but the yeast can work with that
 

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one small note...
one picture looked like you maybe had the carboys on a kitchen counter in front of a window. Try to avoid direct sunlight on them or they can turn tawny-brown & dull or off-flavors. Throw a towel or tshirt over them if they are going to live there.
 
one small note...
one picture looked like you maybe had the carboys on a kitchen counter in front of a window. Try to avoid direct sunlight on them or they can turn tawny-brown & dull or off-flavors. Throw a towel or tshirt over them if they are going to live there.
Theve been relocated that window isnt the best from keeping the cold out as well so ill play it safe and keep them away
 
here's the thing; in my opinion, readings from your hydrometer in mid-flight simply indicate whether your yeast are working or have stalled . The KEY readings are before you pitch (add) the yeast) and when you THINK the fermentation ha ceased. I am unclear what your starting gravity might have been , but I can tell you that if you are using legitimately made /sold honey, gravity readingss will be 1.035 per pound per US gallon. Two pounds in the same volume will read 1.070, 3 lbs , 1.105 and all wine yeasts should be able to ferment that amount of sugar brut dry.
The higher your starting gravity, the longer it will take yeast to fully ferment your mead (or wine), but note, honey has NO nutrients that the yeast need and can use, so mead makers should add appropriate nutrients to the must (the honey and water prior to the addition of the yeast). Many of us will use Fermaid O or K. Some will use nutrients packaged for brewing beer. DAP (Diammonium Phosphate (DAP) does provide nitrogen BUT you can think of DAP as candy for yeast. It does NOT contain the micro-nutrients and vitamins that yeast (like humans) need to thrive. Historically, the lack of nutrients that honey possesses is one reason why mead makers could expect their meads to need 12-24 months beforethey were ready for drinking.
 
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