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eric19312

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You could put ball lock adapters on a Sanke tap, so you can easily hook up Sanke kegs to your ball lock system whenever you want/need to. Gotta watch for the added height though...
I put duo tights on my sanke tap. Those things swap out as easy as ball lock connectors.
this one on the liquid out

This fitting to replace the barbed tailpiece on the gas in

This on the MFL on the tailpiece

So easy enought to swap the sanke coupler out for either ball locks or pin locks for that matter.

You are right about the height issue. If it was tight or I was using that very stiff bevlex Barrier tubing I'd want some sort of 90 degree elbow on there but I've got enough clearance and use the more flexible EVA barrier tubing.
 

Murph4231

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You could put ball lock adapters on a Sanke tap, so you can easily hook up Sanke kegs to your ball lock system whenever you want/need to. Gotta watch for the added height though...
Kudos for mentioning the sanke ball lock conversions. I have a couple of set ups for using ball lock quick connects on sanke kegs. Additionally I have one kegerator that is too short to use a regular American Sanke tap with ball lock QDsIMG_20210601_175603868.jpg. So I bought the Taprite Low profile tap added the ball lock quick connects and bingo, works perfectly.
 
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A1sportsdad

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Started Looking at chest freezers. Can’t find anything used so been looking at reasonably priced new. I was looking at 7.0 cf for $229 but saw the same manufacturer has 8.7 cf for $329. It’s the Hisense 8.7 cf model LC87D6EWD. Found it at Lowes.
Internal dimentions along the bottom section (not including hump) were:
L x D x H
25 5/8 x 17 1/4 x 25 1/2

Measurements for the hump are
L x D x H
8 7/8 x 17 1/4 x 17 3/4

I should be able to get a 5th 5 gallon Corny in here plus have room to put a 3 gallon Corny on the hump and leave room for mounting a fan for circulation.

I will still mount a collar. Give me some more height, room for taps and other pass throughs.

What do you think?

Thanks
 

VirginiaHops1

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Ball lock kegs usually work better for keezers(taller and skinnier). When I was putting my kegs in my refrigerator with cobra taps pin lock dimensions were better though.

Really good advice already in this thread. Get the biggest CO2 tank you can accommodate. Putting it on the outside will allow a 20 pounder. Will save tons of money in the long run.

EVABarrier and Duotight stuff works great, and not just for beer/gas lines. I use them for my jumpers now too.

One thing I had an issue with in my keezer was temperature differential between top and bottom of the keezer, which was causing foaming on the first pour. Even with 2 fans I was having issues. I think it was because when I had 4 kegs in there they were literally packed together as tight as possible, allowing virtually no airflow in the bottom half of the keezer. I ended up adding more fans and put one of the kegs on a can to raise it up and allow a bit more airflow at the bottom, alleviating the issue. Something to keep in mind if you ever have foaming issues, which is a common problem(although can be caused by many different things)
 
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A1sportsdad

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Ball lock kegs usually work better for keezers(taller and skinnier). When I was putting my kegs in my refrigerator with cobra taps pin lock dimensions were better though.

Really good advice already in this thread. Get the biggest CO2 tank you can accommodate. Putting it on the outside will allow a 20 pounder. Will save tons of money in the long run.

EVABarrier and Duotight stuff works great, and not just for beer/gas lines. I use them for my jumpers now too.
Yes, was planning on going Ball Lock and getting a 20 lb and a 5 lb CO2 tank. I’ll use the 5 lb for transfers and what not.
 
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