Time to man up and ask a few questions

[rlynge]

First let me start by saying that I am pretty knowledgeable about the all grain process but since I have yet to do it yet I have some questions for everyone.

First, I don't want to start a debate over which is better because everyone has there opinion. I want to batch sparge at first since fly sparging would be a pain in the ass on my first all grain brew. But, I want to get a false bottom for my 5 gallon gott style cooler so that I can fly sparge later down the road. Who here batch sparges with false bottoms and has success? Any tips?

Second, how do I factor in the dead space under the false bottom?

Third, What efficiency should I shoot for on my first brew?

Any other relevant information is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Yooper]

First let me start by saying that I am pretty knowledgeable about the all grain process but since I have yet to do it yet I have some questions for everyone.

First, I don't want to start a debate over which is better because everyone has there opinion. I want to batch sparge at first since fly sparging would be a pain in the ass on my first all grain brew. But, I want to get a false bottom for my 5 gallon gott style cooler so that I can fly sparge later down the road. Who here batch sparges with false bottoms and has success? Any tips?

Second, how do I factor in the dead space under the false bottom?

Third, What efficiency should I shoot for on my first brew?

Any other relevant information is appreciated. Thanks!

I've always had a false bottom, and for the first few years I brewed I batch sparged. It works great!

The dead space is minimal in my system. I don't really factor it into any calculations.

You could probably plan on 65-68% or so on your first AG, if the crush is good.

 

[rlynge]

Thanks Yooper, I appreciate your straight informed advice! Any tips to ensure no stuck sparges? Should I also add rice hulls do the grains just in case?

 

[bottlebomber]

I personally recommend the braided stainless steel supply hose. There's a great thread on here for converting a cooler. Dead space is a non-issue, since you can simply tilt the cooler forward and capture all of the wort. I will also take the lid of a fermenter and press an additional quart or two from the spent grain.

 

[Augie62]

I am new also to all grain. I did my first with a 10 gallon Tun my second and third all grain I used the BIAB method it worked out real well.

 

[hypergolic]

I started with a stainless steel braid and had nothing but problems. I now have a false bottom and I haven't looked back, it works great. I might add that many people on this forum have had great success with the SS braid, just not me.

 

[passedpawn]

First, ... Who here batch sparges with false bottoms and has success? Any tips?

Me. Lots. I have a false bottom in a sanke keggle. Done 10 batches that way. Before that, I used braids and a bazooka screen (strong braid). Did about 75 batches that way. Always batch sparged.

Second, how do I factor in the dead space under the false bottom?

If you get a false bottom with a dip tube, you won't have much dead space (i.e., don't worry about it). If you use a braid connected to the cooler drink port, assume a quart.

Third, What efficiency should I shoot for on my first brew?

70%. If you do better than this, and you're OG is too high, very easy to add water and correct (which I recommend).

 

[passedpawn]

Any tips to ensure no stuck sparges? Should I also add rice hulls do the grains just in case?

Have a plan, you'll get one some day. If you use a pump, it's easy to blast some water into the ball valve (or whatever port you have) to free the flow. If you don't have a pump, I can't help you. Sorry, always had one, instant fix when I have a problem (which is rare).

Don't stick your hands into the mash, no matter what. You will be sorry (the next day). Good idea to get some silicone gloves from kitchen store. Fairly cheap and useful.

 

[BBKing]

I'm a batch sparger also.

I have a false bottom, couldnt imagine using anything else.

Never had a problem with dead space at all.

I'd shoot for 65-68% efficiency for your first brew or two, then adjust.

I cant recommend this thread enough: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/my-batch-sparge-efficiency-theory-confirmed-again-38211/ I use the MODS (mash out double sparge) method and it has vastly improved my efficiency. Yeah, its a PITA to boil longer, but miss your SG/OG a few times and you'll probably think twice.

Also, pick up the book "Designing Great Beers". I found Chapter 6 (Hitting Target Gravity) to be awesome. Also, keep an extra pound of light DME around, just in case you're off before your boil.

 

[shaggybudd]

Another couple good tips for preventing a stuck sparge:

1. When you're drawing off your wort to your Boil Kettle, restrict your flow. The more flow, the more suction you're creating which will pull your grain bed down more compact and thus create a stuck sparge.

2. I would only use rice hulls in the mash in case my grains were crushed at a near powder or using something like pumpkin in the mash (which gums it up a whole lot). I have yet to have a stuck sparge with my false bottom. *knock on wood* However I have had a couple with a stainless braid. Just my personal experience.

3. Don't forget to vorlauf. After you vorlauf, try your best not to stir anymore, as that will negate the purpose for the vorlaufing.

 

[rlynge]

This is all great advice....with a false bottom what should be the rate that I draw the wort off while avoiding a stuck sparge?

 

[shelly_belly]

I have a Phil's Phalse Bottom in a 5 gallon Rubbermaid and it works great for batch or fly sparge. I tend to fly sparge more because, for me, it's easier and meditative, as I do it by hand, 2 quarts at a time. Dead space is a non-issue as it has a dip-tube of sorts and will suck out almost every drop. I've only had a stuck sparge whenever I tried to drain too fast. Now I just start slow and stay slow. I've never used rice hulls. Another benefit for the plastic is that now that my cooler is all warped up inside I can still get the bottom in and out easily for cleaning. I'm getting around 80% efficiency +- 2% (Brewmasters Warehouse awesome crush). Now if I could just find one for the 10 gallon cooler...

This is all great advice....with a false bottom what should be the rate that I draw the wort off while avoiding a stuck sparge?

I go about 1 qt/ minute. It takes me about 30 minutes to obtain 6.5 gals with a 1 gallon vorlauf

 

[shaggybudd]

This is all great advice....with a false bottom what should be the rate that I draw the wort off while avoiding a stuck sparge?

It generally takes a pretty fast flow to get that kind of suction to give you a stuck sparge, but rule of thumb is that you want your sparge to last about 60 min. to effectively rinse as much as possible. So that would be a very restricted out flow from your tun.

 

[rlynge]

It generally takes a pretty fast flow to get that kind of suction to give you a stuck sparge, but rule of thumb is that you want your sparge to last about 60 min. to effectively rinse as much as possible. So that would be a very restricted out flow from your tun.

I am guessing that is for fly sparging not batch sparging right?

 

[shaggybudd]

I do fly sparge myself, but I don't see why after draining your tun completely first then adding your sparge water (168*-170*) to batch sparge and effectively control your draining to last as long as you can (50-60 min.) could be bad. Thats the goal with sparging: to rinse as much sugars off the grains as possible so slower would be better. Not to mention keeping it going super slow like that will avoid stuck sparges.

My fly sparges only last about 30 min. but thats because I do it by hand at the moment. :-/

 

[bottlebomber]

You guys spend an hour sparging? Man your really working for that extra 5-10% extra efficiency... I just drain the Rubbermaid with the SS braid at full throttle, add my 175 degree sparge water, let it sit for 5 minutes, and drain away. Takes maybe 15 minutes tops, and I get 80% efficiency

 

[passedpawn]

It generally takes a pretty fast flow to get that kind of suction to give you a stuck sparge, but rule of thumb is that you want your sparge to last about 60 min. to effectively rinse as much as possible. So that would be a very restricted out flow from your tun.

Shaggy's talking about fly sparging. Batch sparging, you can run pretty fast. Should be able to empty your mash tun in 2-3 minutes. You cannot get better efficiency from running it slower (for batch sparging).

 

[rlynge]

Awesome, thanks for the tips. It makes me more optimistic that batch sparging with a FB is a feasible option!

 

[Jklinden]

Not just feasible...awesome