This is losely brewing related, but a question.

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bracconiere

bracconiere

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so Mom-on the dash just means mentary not that it stay on after a montary thing i take it.... :( do they even make a on-on-on ac toggle switch?
 
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kartracer2

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Yes, momentary means that it's only connected (passing power) while pushed or moved depending on switch type.
Also yes that's sort of what you need, it does not look like it returns to center (or just run for this use). I'm thinking of an ignition type switch where the switch returns to just run after starting. (OFF - RUN - START, switch springs back to run position when released)
 
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well this is what i bought...



i'll post a pic, when i get the holes drilled in the side, and it put back together and wired up.....


damn, i need wire nuts! :mug:
 

kartracer2

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Should work. Not sure exactly where you live but you might have found them at a local Ace or Do It Best hdw store. Wire nuts too. Least you got something going.
Very curious on how this project works out. IMO the electrical hurdle was a small one, "separating the wheat from the chaff" so to speak has me wondering.
But Hey, ppl scratched their head on lots of things we now use every day with out thinking about how they came to be.
Rock On my friend! :rock:
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.
 
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"separating the wheat from the chaff" so to speak has me wondering.
all i have to do is put SS screen over the exit vent so the kernels don't go through it, let it run for 20-30 minutes...and it gets 'sucked off' in this case i think my clothes dryer blows...but should still work...might have to stick a shop vac down the vent tube on the back to help finish sucking afterwards....


i'll probably be using it next week. i'll try to get a vid of it firing up to post....
 
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this is kinda off-topic. but i'll ask anyway, my drill doesn't work right now, and i'm going to have to drill 3 holes in the side panel to wire this thing up.

fixable? or buy a new one? before it died completely it was kinda like the dryer motor, and a twist would get it running, now that doesn't even get it going....

$70-80 for a new drill wouldn't be the end of the world...but painful....
 

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all i have to do is put SS screen over the exit vent so the kernels don't go through it, let it run for 20-30 minutes...and it gets 'sucked off' in this case i think my clothes dryer blows...but should still work...might have to stick a shop vac down the vent tube on the back to help finish sucking afterwards....


i'll probably be using it next week. i'll try to get a vid of it firing up to post....
Cant wait for the next chapter :bigmug: !!
 

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fixable? or buy a new one?
Everything is is fixable. That said, at some point it's not worth it value wise. Sometimes even ppl like me say "eff it" and scab anything that's good off of it and toss the carcass.
OK, back to the drill, describe the patient and the symptoms to the nice doctor please.
Cheers,
Joel B.
 

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all i have to do is put SS screen over the exit vent so the kernels don't go through it,
Doesn't the drum have many 1/4"-3/8" holes in it? If so, kernels and rootlets will end up in the (outer) drum mantle?

I was thinking you'd line the inside of the drum with a tighter screen to keep all the kernels and rootlets inside the drum.
 
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My thoughts exactly!
Or electrical/electronics supplier.
Heck, a regular light switch would have done it in a pinch.
i got to thinking more about that, and realized both of you are right.


Doesn't the drum have many 1/4"-3/8" holes in it? If so, kernels and rootlets will end up in the (outer) drum mantle?

I was thinking you'd line the inside of the drum with a tighter screen to keep all the kernels and rootlets inside the drum.

both this dryer, and my actual clothes dryer have solid drums...but with my clothes dryer, i did have to cover the exit vent with SS screen to keep the barley from going down the vent....i did the same with this one, but it's inaugural batch is going to be 20lbs of malted oats, because.....
 
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Doesn't the drum have many 1/4"-3/8" holes in it? If so, kernels and rootlets will end up in the (outer) drum mantle?

I was thinking you'd line the inside of the drum with a tighter screen to keep all the kernels and rootlets inside the drum.

well the drum does have 1/4" holes in the back. but i was thinking air is flowing into the drum from them? but i'm glad you mentioned it! i pulled the plate off, and it definitely could use a cleaning! when i screw it back down, i'll put another piece of SS screen behind it....(why i took it off in the first place) :mug:
 

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Doesn't the drum have many 1/4"-3/8" holes in it? If so, kernels and rootlets will end up in the drum mantle?
I was thinking you'd put a tighter screen inside the drum to keep all the kernels and rootlets inside the drum.
I gotta laugh,, dryers are known to eat socks, for shits sakes ! Grain ain't got a chance!! Then again, where there is a will, there is a way. I'd still tape a pair of pantyhose on the outlet ducting (at least the first time and don't use your fish nets, won't do much good LOL) to save the grain that might get through.
I'm still with ya @bracconiere and really "rooting" for your success (pun intended).

I am going to boil up a quick Hefe extract brew this afternoon. It's cool up here in my part of Iowa for the next couple of days, I shouldn't have to baby sit temps for the ferment. :rock: Hell might even do one of the other (6) kits I've been sitting on for a while tomorrow. I am just finding it hard to pick which one.🤔 . Just as well have both my Fermonsters working.:rolleyes:
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.
 
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this is my plan for keep the barley out of the vent......worked with duct tape in my clothes dryer....but you can see i don't have room for duct tape here.....


1634247104024.png
 

kartracer2

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OK, but won't the grain get sucked up against the screen and kinda block it off?
Oh, by the way, and when you get to the point of making a concentrated wort (LME) from you home malt, you owe me a 6'er (lbs.) of that (LOL)
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.
 
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Oh, by the way, and when you get to the point of making a concentrated wort (LME) from you home malt,

i do like taking a nap during the boil...sometimes it goes down a little TOO much, if i ever take an extra long nap, and it's not scorched...i'll say "damn i remember that guy who helped me build a deculmer!" send it off....it'll be pre hoped though! but subtly, right now i'm working on my free 2016 hops... :mug:

and no, just a few kernels get sucked onto it....and i have to open the door few times, to empty the trap...the drum is rotating, and most of the malt is up on the right side..we'll see?
 

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I guess the fan should be sucking the air in and probably wouldn't be tossing the grain "out" but it could. I was thinking more about the rotating drum catching a finger or sleeve and something less than pleasant happening.
Cheers,
Joel B.
 
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I guess the fan should be sucking the air in and probably wouldn't be tossing the grain "out" but it could. I was thinking more about the rotating drum catching a finger or sleeve and something less than pleasant happening.
Cheers,
Joel B.

the grain would fall out because before it slips off the fins of the tumbler it's already near the top of the drum...and spiling all around...that's what makes it a great deculmer!

but now you got me thinking, i SHOULD probably wire the door switch in between the permentent switch, and such? didn't think about a loose shirt sleeve....i just wasn't planing on opening it while it was running...never know though!


LOL, now i'm thinking, damn i already removed the control panel, or i could get the timer working too! ;)
 

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@bracconiere I updated the wire diagram to include the door switch. The factory diagram shows it in the neutral side, so I did also. One wire from the switch should already come from the door switch to the motor from before the great pillage. (it should be a brown/yellow wire) You will have to add the other wire to your cord to suit the way you wire the rest of the project.
Keep Rock'n!! :rock:
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.

Bracs-wire-diag-2.jpg
 
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i was thinking putting it on the hot wire, but that's the proper way? i'll do it...better then a broken arm or something....even though it's just a 1/4HP 5A motor, it is kinda hooked up to a huge gear motor...1750RPM to 50RPM, would give it some serious torque!
 

kartracer2

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You can put any where you want it but the original design has it on the neutral line.
The next problem is though when you close the door and the main switch is still in the "ON" position, the motor will try to run again. It won't start/run again until you push the start button but it will try.
That's what sucks about the centrifugal switch being broken. My self, I just don't like it, but under the circumstances it's tough to work around. I almost like it better with out the door switch because of that. It makes you turn it off at the power switch. There is a reason they do things the way they do. We've lost the "holding circuit" and with out the motor switch it's biting us in the butt now.
Sorry for being a Debbie Downer but I'm just wanting it to be safe and yet "cheap". Reputations and all that are at stake here.
Sorta Cheers, :(
Joel B.
 

kartracer2

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You, @Homebrew Harry , are not adding to the conversation in a positive way. (just kidding)
We might have been able to use the timer that WAS on the unit but that too is water under the bridge. I have no idea about the condition of the unit at the start of this adventure. By that I mean I have no idea what did or not work when the test subject arrived at Dr Bracinstine's laboratory. (there had to be a reason the dryer was a gift) The timer might have been a good save but that could have been the reason for it being DOA.
I think you might be on to something with the moisture sensor idea though but don't say any thing to @bracconiere (LOL). At this stage of the process I "think" the grain is dry already. It would be coming out of the kiln (his oven) at this point.
But hey, thanks for the input. Any thoughts are welcome. Some times the trees are hard to see standing in the forest.
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.
 
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But hey, thanks for the input. Any thoughts are welcome. Some times the trees are hard to see standing in the forest.


i usually can see the trees, but they tend to block the sunlight!

and yeah, the malt is dry, then kilned, and even drier....as far as what was bad, i think it was this thing..a resistor that i tested and got no conductivity on, wouldn't have mattered i don't have a 20amp 120v circuit to plug it into anyway, so all is fine with the hacking it up. my electric dryer is 220v...and this was a 120v 22a one....

1634318005899.png


to deculm i just something to toss it around, and blow air through it.....and i've been wanting something besides manual labor since about 2017...
 

kartracer2

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It had to be a 220v dryer. The only thing that "L2" powers ("did" power) is one side of the heating coils and it looks like the light in the drum. The 120v "L1" powered all the controls, drum motor, timer, etc. and the other side of the heat coils.
Does that resistor have any #'s on it? (like 4500? as in ohm) I only see one resistor on the wire diag. and not sure what it did for sure. I'm just curious, it has no relevance any longer. Just me being me.
Cheers, :mug:
Joel B.
 
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damn posting this pic and looking at it....probably why it didn't fire up i just hooked a lopped off extension cord to all three asummeing ground was middle, and the other two were hot neutral....if i would have known what i've learned from you so far, i would have realized it looks like a 220 three prong cord carries both 120 & 220, and figured out which side was which...lesson learned!

1634324003174.png
 

kartracer2

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Yes sir. I wish I would have found the thread before I did. This might have been a really small project. Then again, it has provided entertainment to some and maybe some education to others.
Life is that way sometimes.
Now if I could just figure out why I have glitch in my neck and left shoulder, life would be better. Good thing it's not on my "drinking" side. (LOL)
Cheers and Rock On, :mug: :rock:
Joel B.
 
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Good news everyone! i just got done deculming about 23lbs oat malt with this dryer! i still haven't hooked up the switches, so i had to give it a push start..but it does work for deculming....had to empty the lint trap a few times, but the malt is cleaner then i can do bucket to bucket with a box fan.....i lost about a pound out the back though....need to figure some way to attach the SS screen better to the back of the drum....


(i would have taken a picture, but although my pictures are better now, this damn POS camera goes through 2 AAs in about a week.....
 

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I'm gonna stay subbed in case kart shows up to ad sensors, wifi and cameras to this device...until then +1 for the "push start". I'm glad it works for your purposes, Brac !
 

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Use rechargeables...
I had a Kodak that was so hard on batteries and did as you suggest. I could take maybe 4 pics before the rechargeables died. And that was only if they had not set for very long off the charger. It would only work on their high amp hour bats. I had 2 kodaks that were like this and glad that they are gone.
 

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I had a Kodak that was so hard on batteries and did as you suggest. I could take maybe 4 pics before the rechargeables died. And that was only if they had not set for very long off the charger. It would only work on their high amp hour bats. I had 2 kodaks that were like this and glad that they are gone.
Santa is coming, know it is difficult to be good , but the new phones take great photos. Wish and try, try hard

Ps enjoyed this post LOL
 
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