Thinking of getting into BIAB

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brewprint

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I have some questions and I know they could be answered just by reading but honestly I've been searching and reading for days so thought I'd just ask.

Basically the way that I understand this is that you put all the grain in the bag. Put the bag in a 10 gallon kettle. Then heat it up to normal steeping temp of 152 or so. Hold the temp for 1 hour and stir the grains every 20 minutes.

Then remove the bag. Set it in a bucket with a false bottom and let it fill the bucket.

Get wort to a boil and add hops just like usual.

Am I missing something here? This sounds so easy and it may only take 1/2 hour longer than a regular extract batch.

In other words I would just top off the wort if I ended up with less than 5 gallons like usual.
 
That's pretty much it.

There is a little more involved but not by much.

I wouldn't top of with water unless your low on volume and high on OG.


Sent from my kegerator
 
I was also going to get a false bottom for the 10 gallon pot. Maybe rig up a pully for big beers or any beer really.

How do you hold the temp so well? Is there a kettle with a thermometer built into the side for this operation or what is easiest?

My interest in this is mainly to save money by buying the grain instead of extract and for it to be made from scratch.
 
I have a 15 gallon pot with a turkey fryer. I use a probe thermometer. To hold the mash temperature, I use a hot water heater blanket around the pot.
 
I was also going to get a false bottom for the 10 gallon pot. Maybe rig up a pully for big beers or any beer really.

How do you hold the temp so well? Is there a kettle with a thermometer built into the side for this operation or what is easiest?

My interest in this is mainly to save money by buying the grain instead of extract and for it to be made from scratch.

A lot of ppl just insulate the kettle once they hit the mash temp and get by w/ 1-2 degrees of heat loss over the hour. I think results vary. Some add heat back if the temp drops. It's a variable process and you can do what works best for you.
 
All of your replies are greatly appreciated.

I also see that I could buy a 4 pc set of the wilser bags for $32 and includes a pulley. Sounds like a great deal.

I may wait until summer to be able to hold temp easier.

I really had no idea this would be this easy to do all grain.what has held me back from that was the amount of time to brew and the cash for all the equipment and extra clean up.
 
Some add heat back if the temp drops. It's a variable process and you can do what works best for you.

Guilty as charged!

I mash in 15 minute steps... heat to rest temp, let rest for 15 minutes, heat and stir for a couple minutes to regain lost temp, rest, heat/stir, rest, heat/stir, repeat until duration of mash is complete, which is normally 60 minutes, but could be as long as 90. I've been thinking about doing some insulating, but haven't gotten around to it, sine the process I've been using works well and isn't all that much trouble.

Also, I use a handheld thermometer (Thermapen). I only need to know the temp as the mash is heating. Once the lid is on I don't care. I check it again after my 15 minute step is done and I've started the heat cycle. I would think a thermometer built-in to the kettle would get caught on the bag and pretty much just be in the way.
 
How do you hold the temp so well? Is there a kettle with a thermometer built into the side for this operation or what is easiest?
Right this very minute, there's the start of a batch of BierMuncher's Ode to Arthur Guinness clone under that pink blanket. I monitor temp w/ a digital thermometer (barely visible attached to the post on the right).

IMG_8523.JPG
 
I have some questions and I know they could be answered just by reading but honestly I've been searching and reading for days so thought I'd just ask.

Basically the way that I understand this is that you put all the grain in the bag. Put the bag in a 10 gallon kettle. Then heat it up to normal steeping temp of 152 or so. Hold the temp for 1 hour and stir the grains every 20 minutes.

Then remove the bag. Set it in a bucket with a false bottom and let it fill the bucket.

Get wort to a boil and add hops just like usual.

Am I missing something here? This sounds so easy and it may only take 1/2 hour longer than a regular extract batch.

In other words I would just top off the wort if I ended up with less than 5 gallons like usual.

great post on BIAB stickied in the BIAB section. 250k views at least

No need to stir the mash til mash out if you do one. I do not stir during mash, lose almost no heat in 60-90 mins.
 
Basically the way that I understand this is that you put all the grain in the bag. Put the bag in a 10 gallon kettle. Then heat it up to normal steeping temp of 152 or so. Hold the temp for 1 hour and stir the grains every 20 minutes

Just to be clear, you would heat your strike water in the kettle first, then add your bag and grains. The amount of water you use and the initial temperature you heat the strike water to will vary depending on the amount of grains in your batch and at what temperature you wish to mash. Plenty of calculators available to help you with those variables...
 
Just to be clear, you would heat your strike water in the kettle first, then add your bag and grains. The amount of water you use and the initial temperature you heat the strike water to will vary depending on the amount of grains in your batch and at what temperature you wish to mash. Plenty of calculators available to help you with those variables...

As you have seen, there are many ways to skin this cat. I heat the water to the calculated strike temperature and add the grains. Why? Because putting the grains in and heating the water requires constant stirring and it is difficult to hit the right temperature and the temperature during the mash determines the fermentability of the beer.

I may wait until summer to be able to hold temp easier.

The temperature in my kitchen stays pretty constant all winter. That makes it easy to maintain the temperature of the mash. Most people think that they have to do a 5 gallon batch but there isn't any reason that you can't do a 2 1/2 gallon and that will work on most kitchen stoves. With that in mind, you could buy a paint strainer bag and some grains and give all grain brewing a try this weekend.
 
Guilty as charged!

I mash in 15 minute steps... heat to rest temp, let rest for 15 minutes, heat and stir for a couple minutes to regain lost temp, rest, heat/stir, rest, heat/stir, repeat until duration of mash is complete, which is normally 60 minutes, but could be as long as 90. I've been thinking about doing some insulating, but haven't gotten around to it, sine the process I've been using works well and isn't all that much trouble.

Also, I use a handheld thermometer (Thermapen). I only need to know the temp as the mash is heating. Once the lid is on I don't care. I check it again after my 15 minute step is done and I've started the heat cycle. I would think a thermometer built-in to the kettle would get caught on the bag and pretty much just be in the way.

I'll do something similar. Since I brew outside in the garage, it is harder to maintain an accurate temperature for extended periods of time. I find that I'll check about every 15 minutes, give the spoon a whirl around the mash, check the temp, and if I'm low, I'll hit it with a 20-30 second blast of heat from the burner. This is usually enough to be it up a degree or two. Ymmv. Then I'll stir it up again and repeat if needed. I'll do this until my mash is complete. I'm using a digital thermometer as well as a dial thermometer (I've had issues in the past and don't completely trust my digital therm...). As long as the are both reading the same temperature, I'm a happy Brewer. Meanwhile, I'm cleaning out my mill, buckets, heating sparge water, and preparing for the next steps.

I have the luxury of a garage heater, so I brew in the comfort of 70 degrees, even when it's -10°.
 
great post on BIAB stickied in the BIAB section. 250k views at least

No need to stir the mash til mash out if you do one. I do not stir during mash, lose almost no heat in 60-90 mins.

From what I read it's supposed to be stirred every 20 minutes.

Are you saying that you only stir it before you remove the bag? To me it would seem that there is a potential of the sugars and goodness to not get into the pot.
 
From what I read it's supposed to be stirred every 20 minutes.

Are you saying that you only stir it before you remove the bag? To me it would seem that there is a potential of the sugars and goodness to not get into the pot.

Mashing with BIAB is no different than with a more conventional mash tun. Some like to stir some do not. There is no indication based on the chemistry to stir during a mash. The starches convert to sugar in the presence of water and heat and the enzymes in the grain. If you are losing heat and need to stir to reduce stratification during reheating of the mash that is a different story. Opening the pot to stir will cause you to lose heat so the problem is circular. I mash-in stirring constantly and thoroughly, put the lid on, wrap the pot in an insulating jacket and leave it. I monitor temps throughout with a probe and rarely lose even 1 degree F. Once the Sacc rest is complete I mash out, heating to 168 stirring constantly (9 mins usually for my setup). Then it sits for 10 mins covered and insulated. I stir once more and lauter.

I usually start early in the am so am back in bed for my 60-90 min mash. Getting almost 90% mash and 76-78% brewhouse efficiency this way.

I would advise re reading the stickied BIAB method in the BIAB section
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f244/biab-brewing-pics-233289/

For smaller pots than mine, placing it in an oven at the mash temp is also very effective. Again no stirring is used. Check out "Texas Wine"'s postings on the subject. He is very knowledgeable. Wilserbrew is also very well informed.

Stir if you feel you need to but it is not mandated by the science nor results. A constant recirculating mash with PID temperature control is possible and many do that. That is beyond my setup and budget for now.
 
Mashing with BIAB is no different than with a more conventional mash tun. Some like to stir some do not. There is no indication based on the chemistry to stir during a mash. The starches convert to sugar in the presence of water and heat and the enzymes in the grain. If you are losing heat and need to stir to reduce stratification during reheating of the mash that is a different story. Opening the pot to stir will cause you to lose heat so the problem is circular. I mash-in stirring constantly and thoroughly, put the lid on, wrap the pot in an insulating jacket and leave it. I monitor temps throughout with a probe and rarely lose even 1 degree F. Once the Sacc rest is complete I mash out, heating to 168 stirring constantly (9 mins usually for my setup). Then it sits for 10 mins covered and insulated. I stir once more and lauter.

I usually start early in the am so am back in bed for my 60-90 min mash. Getting almost 90% mash and 76-78% brewhouse efficiency this way.

I would advise re reading the stickied BIAB method in the BIAB section
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f244/biab-brewing-pics-233289/

For smaller pots than mine, placing it in an oven at the mash temp is also very effective. Again no stirring is used. Check out "Texas Wine"'s postings on the subject. He is very knowledgeable. Wilserbrew is also very well informed.

Stir if you feel you need to but it is not mandated by the science nor results. A constant recirculating mash with PID temperature control is possible and many do that. That is beyond my setup and budget for now.

Same here (more or less)- stir to mix on dough-in, then cover and get everything lined up for the rest of the brew. I have a pump and can recirculate, but am reserving that for thicker mashes / when the need arises.

At the end of the day, it's all about what works for you and your setup.
 
I always thought BIAB was a reach for me. I almost bought 2 coolers at Lowes. Then I looked into the process of converting those coolers into mash tun and HLT. Financial considerations aside, BIAB started looking more and more appealing. Got a promotion at work and spent $250 on a new kettle and bag and beersmith. Best money I ever spent. I live in the Chicago burbs and brewed last weekend. It was cold but it was the wind which was more of a pain. I used an old down coat for insulation. I never stirred once and my temperature stayed fairly constant. My numbers came in where they should of and I look forward to drinking it. I used to do partial mashing and it drove me nuts. Already done 3 BIABs and I love it. Just a better experience in general.
 
I always thought BIAB was a reach for me. I almost bought 2 coolers at Lowes. Then I looked into the process of converting those coolers into mash tun and HLT. Financial considerations aside, BIAB started looking more and more appealing. Got a promotion at work and spent $250 on a new kettle and bag and beersmith. Best money I ever spent. I live in the Chicago burbs and brewed last weekend. It was cold but it was the wind which was more of a pain. I used an old down coat for insulation. I never stirred once and my temperature stayed fairly constant. My numbers came in where they should of and I look forward to drinking it. I used to do partial mashing and it drove me nuts. Already done 3 BIABs and I love it. Just a better experience in general.

BIAB is a great way to get into AG brewing. You can make great beer with this method. Where in the Chicago burbs?
 

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