What yeast did you go for?HB west coast 100% gambrinus Pilsner
What yeast did you go for?HB west coast 100% gambrinus Pilsner
I used flagship by imperial. I highly recommend it for this style of beer.What yeast did you go for?
I used flagship by imperial. I highly recommend it for this style of beer.
Ha!"The New West Coast Pale Ale"
yes I think this is really interesting - I know Bob from Highland Park has been really upfront about using it for all their WCIPA. And Firestone Walker’s newest brand of IPA (hopnosis) uses their house lager strain. It’s something I plan to play around with as I make this style more.I have heard of a few breweries that have been using 34/70 for all their West Coast IPAs.
Here is my "New West Coast Pale Ale" at just over a week in the keg. It was brewed on Jan 2 and kegged on Jan 15. It is drinking very nice. It still has a touch of haze. This batch targeted 2.7 gallons into the fermenter:
Dude thats plenty of good reason for me lol. FWIW, Ive really been getting more and more into just tasting the grains to help me with my grain composition. With respect to weyermann malts, IMHO there is definitely a sensory difference when eating the grains between Barke, Floor-malted, and regular Pilsner malts from the same manufacturer. I have some Barke but haven't brewed with it yet, so will be interested to see if that "grape" like flavor becomes more prominent in the final brew. Might have to do another comparison to look for it again on the same grain tasting.Ha!
yes I think this is really interesting - I know Bob from Highland Park has been really upfront about using it for all their WCIPA. And Firestone Walker’s newest brand of IPA (hopnosis) uses their house lager strain. It’s something I plan to play around with as I make this style more.
@Noob_Brewer regarding the 2-row in my grist I was waiting for someone to call me out on that. I’ve been doing it for these beers per the direction of the local brewery that’s been helping me on this recipe (TDNE in SLO, CA). I prefer to have some pale malt (2-row) in the grist when I use Barke pils to help neutralize that distinct (grape like?) flavor I get from it. But I like these beers with straight weyerman pils for sure and I think getting the right balance of light and crisp but still some familiar malt flavor and body is personal preference and will vary greatly with all the different pilsners out there.
the recipe (not my design) I've been using for a Racer 5 clone also has about 3% Caramel Pils. what does that add/what would omitting that leave out?My current house IPA recipe was heavily influenced by Racer 5, which I also think is a great beer (at least when I can get a fresh bottle). My last batch had 5.6% Crystal 20 (with a 2-row base and 9% wheat malt...it is a clear beer though). I have it on my list to brew another batch swapping out the Crystal 20 for some Munich 10 or 15.
I am not sure I have every noticed anything positive or negative from using Carapils. I have played around a little with Briess Carapils, and Weyerman Carafoam. I tend to think that a little Malted Wheat actually does what Carapils claims to do.the recipe (not my design) I've been using for a Racer 5 clone also has about 3% Caramel Pils. what does that add/what would omitting that leave out?
thanks!
I soft crash when fermentation is complete,down to 55f and dry hop for 2 days at that temp and then cold crash.Planning to do this one for my next brew but have a question on the dry hop schedule. Based on the notes in the recipe the dry hops are only left in about 1 day, but I'm not clear when people are dry hopping these. Maybe it's not critical and any time after fermentation has calmed down.
I've got a bit of an odd schedule coming up with work travel and a vacation trip and I want to make sure I plan my brew day accordingly.
Thanks
It looks like that might be some comments from a professional brewer.I was curious if people are actually doing that and what the timing is.
Yeah @CascadesBrewer is right this is from the email I got back from the local pro brewer at TDNE. His beers are right there with other great breweries in Ca like Alvarado st, green cheek, highland park, NPBC. That’s his dry hop method and from what I gather he’s treating WCIPA and hazy the same - huge DH, short contact, minimal yeast.I'm still pretty new and haven't gotten to the point I have a good set up for cold crashing. My main question was around the note from the brewfather recipe posted in the OP...
"Dryhops are usually in the 3.5-4lb/bbl range and we do about a 30 hour contact time before dumping the hops out, and we rouse the tanks with Co2 from the bottom post dry hop & the next morning after the dry hop." The recipe itself also lists 1 day for the dry hop schedule.
I was curious if people are actually doing that and what the timing is.
Yes that’s a fine schedule. You will very likely be dry hopping after fermentation is complete (which many of us argue is the best way) which will necessitate that you reduce cold side oxidation as much as possible. Popular ways to do that are: cold crash under pressure, dry hop while co2 is flowing into the fermenter, add o.2g metabisulfite (k meta, na meta, Campden), closed transfer to keg. All good measures to take to keep your hoppy beers fresh and aromatic!I'm going to ask this a little differently and specific to this upcoming brew and my odd schedule. I'd like to follow the following schedule...
Brew Day March 4th
Dry Hop on the 17th. That is longer than I would usually go before dry hopping but don't think that would likely be a problem. It's either that or wait to brew until later, but I'd really like to get a batch in as long as it will come out ok.
I would say that is fine. I would quess that most my beers are "ready" to dry hop somewhere in the 7 to 10 day range. I usually then look at my schedule to see when I can fit in time to package, and try to dry hop about 4 days before then (2 days at a warmer temp, 2 day cold crash). Maybe that is day 7. Maybe that is day 16. I generally think a few more days in the fermenter is a good thing.I'm going to ask this a little differently and specific to this upcoming brew and my odd schedule. I'd like to follow the following schedule...
Brew Day March 4th
Dry Hop on the 17th. That is longer than I would usually go before dry hopping but don't think that would likely be a problem. It's either that or wait to brew until later, but I'd really like to get a batch in as long as it will come out ok.
Curiousity question: What (if anything) are you doing for water adjustments with the partial mash?I decided to brew a dme, partial mash and short boil variation of a Modern West Coast ipa.
I mashed the grains separate while I started to boil the dme wort and added the hops as needed. In the mash I adjusted for ph and only added gypsum to my tap water to target a 2.25 to so4 to Cl ratio. Obviously I know I can’t know the final water chem due to the dme, I figured with this ratio I’d have wiggle room on either ends to still be in or close to appropriate for styleCuriousity question: What (if anything) are you doing for water adjustments with the partial mash?
Looks great! I’m gonna need to do some more dme batches to keep me going as life gets busier. Do you think it saved you a good amount of time?I decided to brew a dme, partial mash and short boil variation of a Modern West Coast ipa.
Fermentables
6 lb Pilsner lite dme
4 lbs Pilsner malt
1 lb carapils
0.5lb dextrose
Hotside hops
20 ibus of Columbus @30
0.5 oz Galaxy
0.5 oz talus @ 5
Whirlpooled
1-1 ratio of talus to Galaxy
Dryhopping today
2-1 ratio of talus to mosaic cryo
Will update once pouring
I did two beers that day, following the same 30 minute boil and mini-mashing while boiling and adding it back to be pasteurized. It took me a total 4-4.5 hours with clean up. That would typically take me 7-7.5Looks great! I’m gonna need to do some more dme batches to keep me going as life gets busier. Do you think it saved you a good amount of time?
I love talus for WCIPA - i get such clear grapefruit, pine and roses from it.
What are your quantities for WP and DH?
I’m whirlpooling with about 6oz and dryhoping with 10 oz. Then biofining itI did two beers that day, following the same 30 minute boil and mini-mashing while boiling and adding it back to be pasteurized. It took me a total 4-4.5 hours with clean up. That would typically take me 7-7.5
I don't see why you couldn't. I use the method shared by @Dgallo. It's super easy and it works really well. I use a syringe to push 20ml through the PRV hole while pushing co2 into the keg at around 2 psi. I then swirl the beer inside the keg to make sure it mixes well. I don't think I'll ever go back to gelatin.Someone earlier asked the question whether it can be added to the serving keg before it's being purged by fermentation CO2. If it was answered I missed it. Anyone?
Thanks. I may give that a try. Also, I bought a syringe recently that I connected to the gas-in QD to shoot gelatin into a filled keg of my Irish Red Ale. So I can also do that same thing going forward with Biofine I suppose. I've only tried the syringe>gas QD method he one time so far, but it seemed to work fine, although the red ale is not as clear as I'd hoped it would be. Maybe needs more time. But I agree, Biofine does sound like less of a hassle than mixing up gelatin.I don't see why you couldn't. I use the method shared by @Dgallo. It's super easy and it works really well. I use a syringe to push 20ml through the PRV hole while pushing co2 into the keg at around 2 psi. I then swirl the beer inside the keg to make sure it mixes well. I don't think I'll ever go back to gelatin.
Biofine is use most effectively when mixed harmoniously to a chilled (serving temps) liquid. It will work at warmer temps but takes long and may not be as effectiveJust stumbled on this thread very interesting, thanks @ihavenonickname . Also nice to see There Does Not Exist get some props, they're local to me and putting out some really good beers. Owner/Brewer Max Montgomery is also making some really good pilsners.
This is a style I haven't brewed before, but now I want to. I've also never used Biofine to clear, only gelatin. But it looks easier and may even work better? Someone earlier asked the question whether it can be added to the serving keg before it's being purged by fermentation CO2. If it was answered I missed it. Anyone?
Looks refreshing.Lots of great contribution to the thread so far, thanks everybody!
Here’s my latest version and first sense. I posted originally. I definitely stand by some of the key features to this version of west coast IPA being: really light malt bill (all of mostly pils), lower than classic ibu from the kettle, extra low finishing gravity, huge DryHop.
100% weyerman pils 1.062 to 1.008
Warrior at 30 min, 10 ibus
Strata at 10 min, 25 IBU, 2 oz
Citra Lupo and strata in 180f WP, 4oz
Dy hop cold post fermentation
Strata 6oz and citra Lupo 4oz
I added gelatin to the keg by the “chino gelatin cannon” or whatever it’s called (water bottle, carb cap, gas jumper, pressure) shook the keg with it was crystal clear like this the next day.
Oh yeah! I added more details in my post above.Looks refreshing.
What yeast did you use and what are the tasting notes?
Thanks for elaborating.Oh yeah! I added more details in my post above.
Talus is a good hop, but so overpowering.I decided to brew a dme, partial mash and short boil variation of a Modern West Coast ipa.
Fermentables
6 lb Pilsner lite dme
4 lbs Pilsner malt
1 lb carapils
0.5lb dextrose
Hotside hops
20 ibus of Columbus @30
0.5 oz Galaxy
0.5 oz talus @ 5
Whirlpooled
1-1 ratio of talus to Galaxy
Dryhopping today
2-1 ratio of talus to mosaic cryo
Will update once pouring
I haven't used it since it was an unnamed hop and really looking forward to trying it. Being slightly familiar and knowing it’s Sabro parentage, I had a filling it would be potent so I’m hoping my planning was solid. I want it to be the star but want the Galaxy and mosaic to be come across but more supportiveTalus is a good hop, but so overpowering.
I think I used 0.5oz in WP with citra in a non boil IPA, it completely took over. I've had 2-3 commercial ones, and the flavor is very distinct. It's a good hop, but can be a bit much.I haven't used it since it was an unnamed hop and really looking forward to trying it. Being slightly familiar and knowing it’s Sabro parentage, I had a filling it would be potent so I’m hoping my planning was solid. I want it to be the star but want the Galaxy and mosaic to be come across but more supportive
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