Looks good.
American IPA The New West Coast IPA
- Thread starter ihavenonickname
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Looks good.
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Is this the Colombus you posted above? Because, with your advice, I bought a bunch of that batch. I love "dank" and the CTZ I have recently tried, even Lupo Columbus has not delivered. If we ever have another FOTHB, someone will probably get a pound of it, since I had to order 11lbs. I have it, but haven't used it yet. I brew frequently, so no bother but looking forward to trying it out....Cheers! Rick
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
That’s the t90 I used. I didn’t use a lot of in this beer. Only about 2 oz in total but it’s in there. I was honestly afraid of it being too dank so I avoided using it in the dryhop. once you smell the hops you’ll know what I mean though. Smells just how Fiddle Head IPA or Bissel Bros Substance smells
Looks awesome. Did you fine with gelatin? What yeast and what temperature did you ferment at?
I haven’t tried biofine yet. Is it better than gelatin? Do you drop the temp before dry hop or do you dry hop warm? Thanks!
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
Well shoot I guess complete the thought…
Then soft crash to 58, dry hop for 2 days then crash to 38? Or do you do west coast different? There are still tons of great breweries out there fermenting warm for a long time - like Russian River lets it go 7-14 days (heard this in those more recent interviews he did) but they drop cone every day.
Edit: oops sorry now I see you already had a follow up post.
Well I grabbed an 8oz bottle of Biofine. I just kegged another batch of West Coast IPA Is Dead and added 5ml in the keg. Excited to see how it works.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
You might need more than that. I’ve never had luck with 1 ml per gallon. I usually use 3-4 ml per gallon. But I also struggle with patience lol
Def keep us posted
I thought I'd start there because I've had people mention as little as 3 ml.
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"People also ask:
How much biofine should I use?
Dosage Rates: 1/4 Tbsp (3 ml or 1/10oz) to as much as 2 Tbsp (31 ml or 1 fluid oz.) per 5 gallon batch of beer. Store in cool, dry conditions above 41 degrees F and do not allow the product to freeze. Some beer styles don't react with certain dose rates."
As a point of reference, I usually add ~15 ml into a 'batch volume' 5 gallon keg just prior to doing a pressure transfer from the fermenter. The beer has already been spunded and cold crashed by then, so the biofine get well dispersed into the beer during the transfer. Settling only takes about a day.
I'll add another 5ml, I'm impatient too, but also cheap. It's a bad combo.
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Great thread, I always read it.
I use Cellar Science Silafine, which I think is pretty much the same as Biofine clear. 1ml per gallon works great for me. I also use whirlfloc in the boil and make sure my water has ~100ppm of Calcium.
My most recent WCIPA - 6.5% 70 IBU:
86% Brewer's Malt
5% Bonlander Munich 10L
5% Crystal 15
4% Dextrose
Magnum, Chinook, McKenzie hot side and Chinook, Mckenzie, Centennial dry hop
3 days post kegging:
And tonight:
I use Cellar Science Silafine, which I think is pretty much the same as Biofine clear. 1ml per gallon works great for me. I also use whirlfloc in the boil and make sure my water has ~100ppm of Calcium.
My most recent WCIPA - 6.5% 70 IBU:
86% Brewer's Malt
5% Bonlander Munich 10L
5% Crystal 15
4% Dextrose
Magnum, Chinook, McKenzie hot side and Chinook, Mckenzie, Centennial dry hop
3 days post kegging:
And tonight:
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This beer
This beer is 5.5 g/l (something like 1.4lbs/bbl) added post fermentation at 9c/49f
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
That’s quite a low rate for us brewery standards. It’s typically 2lb/bbl whirlpool and 4lb/bbl dryhop. Definitely would explain why your able to have your beer clear at 1ml/gal.
This is not saying anything negative about your beer, it looks great, it’s only to indicate why you’re very successful at a lower rate
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Yeah there’s another 7g/l in whirlpool, to be fair. I definitely agree that the dry hop is lower than what we see commercially these days.
TwitchellBrew
Member
I haven’t seen much about hop hash. I just put in a decent sized order at yvh and they threw in 4 oz of mosaic hop hash. Was considering using it along with 4 oz t90 mosaic on a west coast mosaic ipa I have coming up. Does anyone have experience with it?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
It’s great. Sometimes it’s very hard and compact. Like a brick. When it s like that I’ve used it in whirlpool. If it’s soft or soft enough I can run it through the food processor I’ll mix it in with my pellets and dryhop. Definitely a more resinous character
Kind of like the real thing.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Hahaa i mean i might give a whirlpool when its like a brick but im always avoiding a food processor hard or soft lolKind of like the real thing.
Pretty impressive, only 24 hours with Biofine and this is a 34/70 beer which is notoriously slow to clear.
Recipe was West Coast IPA Is Dead, but used Mosaic Simcoe Citra. Also first time acidifying post boil. I think it made a difference.
Last edited:
TwitchellBrew
Member
“More resinous” is what I’d love in this beer so I’ll definitely give it a go. I’ve read alpha cannot really be determined. I assume you’d use a low temp whirlpool like 160 when using this? Thanks for the intel!
Wow, 48 hours after Biofine.
10ml in 5 gallons.
Crystal clear.
10ml in 5 gallons.
Crystal clear.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Better than gelatin, right? Lol
What's the consensus regarding biofine or gelatin trapping hop compounds and changing the beer's flavor?
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Too much of either is not a good thing, but generally speaking my opinion is that Biofine or Silica Fine (both silicon dioxide) are ‘gentler’ and clears better than gelatin. Use less, wait a few days longer with either one. It’ll settle out with time and temperature. Use more and consume sooner but risk possible stripping of flavor/body, but I’ve noticed little degradation when using moderate amounts of Biofine.
Moderation in everything, including moderation.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I mean I wouldn’t use this as evidence, it would just serve as one data point. we don’t know the panel, we don’t know what’s their experience is with drinking hoppy beers and how well they are able to distinguish differences in the first place. also it’s like a 2.5 oz dryhop and 5-6 oz total hop load for the beer.
We know fining agents bind to proteins, polyphenols and yeast. We know all 3 have a molecular attraction to hop compounds. So it will drop out some. The bigger question is to what extend.
In my experience it does limit the character to some extent especially if you are only focusing on dryhoping, as it seems to have a bigger impact on coldside hops. Not to a great extent but I’ve brewed beers that I thought would be clear in the keg without finings, have poured them and then decided to fine while in the keg and I could notice a difference in intensity. Not extreme but to an extent. Since then I’ve made sure I’ve gone higher on my whirlpool additions to compensate as the hotside character seems to hang around even after fining
I guess in my long winded response what I’m trying to say is I strongly feels it will drop out some compound but with adjustments to your process and recipe it will be marginal and worth it for a bright beer
Totally, and so much easier to use! Consider me converted.
Anyone have a recipe they could share that's a really great example of the style? I know there's probably a ton on here, but I haven't totally kept up on the thread. I tend to like examples with a little bit of classic citrus/pine and a little bit of more modern tropical fruit.
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
yeah! OP is super solid still. And I’ll just rattle off a top of my head recipe that will certainly make a great beer.
All Pilsner malt to 1.060. Bittering addition 20-40 IBUS depending how much you like bitterness. Whirpool with 1 oz per gallon. Ferment with any solid Chico yeast. Dry hop with 1.5 oz per gallon. Use citra and simcoe and you’ll get those flavors. Then iterate from there
All Pilsner malt to 1.060. Bittering addition 20-40 IBUS depending how much you like bitterness. Whirpool with 1 oz per gallon. Ferment with any solid Chico yeast. Dry hop with 1.5 oz per gallon. Use citra and simcoe and you’ll get those flavors. Then iterate from there
I will say, I really like the West Coast IPA is Dead clone, but it's all whirlpool and dry hop. I feel like it's missing some of that middle hop character, so I think I"m going to add in some late boil, i.e. 15-5min. additions to round that out.
