This is part 2 in an on-going series, click [here] for part 1.
After letting the room dry for a few days after the washing, I went to work using a scraper to get rid of any loose paint so that I wouldn't have a "paint comes off after 35 minutes" situation. I did get most of the loose paint using the power-washer though, so it was quick work.
I also got a concrete spackling paste to fill up some of the smaller holes left by nails, bolts and such through the 60 years this building has been in use. It's too soon to tell how well it worked but it was easy to apply and I was able to paint over it within a few hours of putting it on.
I was going to paint the room regular white, but after talking to a few people I decided to go with egg-shell just to tone down the;
- "Hi, we are the Grays and have abducted you to research how your liver can handle this much alcohol" look.
I got concrete paint with a foundation mixed into it so that I didn't have to do a foundation layer. The challenge here was that since the walls (and part of the ceiling) were covered in murals, I had to do 3 layers just to cover them up. I know one person on the forum was a bit disappointed that I painted over the horse portrait, but if I didn't how would I be able to paint beer portraits?
A recommendation for those who haven't painted before, wear goggles when doing the ceiling, and do the ceiling first to avoid getting drips down the walls.
I still need to do a 4th layer but I'm saving that for after I get the concrete poured since there may be some splashing (using a pumping truck) and I'm not sure how thick the layer has to be to even out the floor.
Since I was planning on have a new layer of concrete to even out and pretty up the floor, I didn't paint all the way down to the bottom, it doesn't matter how pretty the paint looks if it's covered by concrete. I may end up tiling the bottom 5 - 10 inches of the room. It depends on how the concrete/drainage situation works out and what I decide for flooring (tile, epoxy, bare concrete)
There are 2 columns made from steel that had a fairly bad rust situation. When I was out buying extra eggshell paint for the walls, I walked past their metal paints and found some varnish that could be painted directly on rust. Luckily it was black, which works well with white. Pink does too, but I wouldn't want pink columns in my brew room. I used the same paint on the fan in the room, to get rid of the sun.
Time taken: 12 hours (2 x 6 hours)
Tools used:
Paint roller
Paint brush.
Scraper
Knife.
Before:
Results:
Prepping for the new layer of concrete on the floor
After finishing up the painting for now and letting it dry. I moved on to preparing the room for the concrete delivery. Since the guy I normally use was on vacation, I probably won't get the concrete right away, but since it's my last week of vacation for now I decided to prep the room.
As you can see from this picture:
There are some flaws in the floor stemming from wear and tear. There are holes built into the floor several places and I only need one to put in a good drain for brewing.
In addition part of the floor is a bit lower than the rest of it. After taking away most of the patchwork with my trusty sledgehammer, and talking to a friend of mine, I decided to use 2 inch styrofoam to insulate the floor a bit and to cover up the holes. I also added a triple-layer over the hole I'm using for the drain so that the concrete won't cover it up when it's being poured.
Work you won't see in the picture:
Since two of the holes couldn't be covered up with styrofoam first due to being level with the higher level of flooring, I added a pillar with a 1 inch thick board on top of it into each hole. I also pressed some wire-mesh into the hole and folded it onto the floor level, to give some extra attachment for the concrete.
After:
The next step was to even out some of the more severe areas and filling some of the holes in a later addition to the original floor. Since these gashes and gaps could potentially suck up a lot of concrete, I filled them up with sand. I also added a thin layer of sand on top of the styrofoam boards.
Tomorrow I'm borrowing a laser to get a level reading on the floor to mark for the concrete and then I'll be waiting for getting the concrete, if the last of my brewing equipment arrives and the weather is nice, have an outdoor brew day.
Time taken: 3 hours.
Tools used:
Wheelbarrow
Shovel
Iron rake
Saw
Knife
Measuring band
After letting the room dry for a few days after the washing, I went to work using a scraper to get rid of any loose paint so that I wouldn't have a "paint comes off after 35 minutes" situation. I did get most of the loose paint using the power-washer though, so it was quick work.
I also got a concrete spackling paste to fill up some of the smaller holes left by nails, bolts and such through the 60 years this building has been in use. It's too soon to tell how well it worked but it was easy to apply and I was able to paint over it within a few hours of putting it on.
I was going to paint the room regular white, but after talking to a few people I decided to go with egg-shell just to tone down the;
- "Hi, we are the Grays and have abducted you to research how your liver can handle this much alcohol" look.
I got concrete paint with a foundation mixed into it so that I didn't have to do a foundation layer. The challenge here was that since the walls (and part of the ceiling) were covered in murals, I had to do 3 layers just to cover them up. I know one person on the forum was a bit disappointed that I painted over the horse portrait, but if I didn't how would I be able to paint beer portraits?
A recommendation for those who haven't painted before, wear goggles when doing the ceiling, and do the ceiling first to avoid getting drips down the walls.
I still need to do a 4th layer but I'm saving that for after I get the concrete poured since there may be some splashing (using a pumping truck) and I'm not sure how thick the layer has to be to even out the floor.
Since I was planning on have a new layer of concrete to even out and pretty up the floor, I didn't paint all the way down to the bottom, it doesn't matter how pretty the paint looks if it's covered by concrete. I may end up tiling the bottom 5 - 10 inches of the room. It depends on how the concrete/drainage situation works out and what I decide for flooring (tile, epoxy, bare concrete)
There are 2 columns made from steel that had a fairly bad rust situation. When I was out buying extra eggshell paint for the walls, I walked past their metal paints and found some varnish that could be painted directly on rust. Luckily it was black, which works well with white. Pink does too, but I wouldn't want pink columns in my brew room. I used the same paint on the fan in the room, to get rid of the sun.
Time taken: 12 hours (2 x 6 hours)
Tools used:
Paint roller
Paint brush.
Scraper
Knife.
Before:
Results:
Prepping for the new layer of concrete on the floor
After finishing up the painting for now and letting it dry. I moved on to preparing the room for the concrete delivery. Since the guy I normally use was on vacation, I probably won't get the concrete right away, but since it's my last week of vacation for now I decided to prep the room.
As you can see from this picture:
There are some flaws in the floor stemming from wear and tear. There are holes built into the floor several places and I only need one to put in a good drain for brewing.
In addition part of the floor is a bit lower than the rest of it. After taking away most of the patchwork with my trusty sledgehammer, and talking to a friend of mine, I decided to use 2 inch styrofoam to insulate the floor a bit and to cover up the holes. I also added a triple-layer over the hole I'm using for the drain so that the concrete won't cover it up when it's being poured.
Work you won't see in the picture:
Since two of the holes couldn't be covered up with styrofoam first due to being level with the higher level of flooring, I added a pillar with a 1 inch thick board on top of it into each hole. I also pressed some wire-mesh into the hole and folded it onto the floor level, to give some extra attachment for the concrete.
After:
The next step was to even out some of the more severe areas and filling some of the holes in a later addition to the original floor. Since these gashes and gaps could potentially suck up a lot of concrete, I filled them up with sand. I also added a thin layer of sand on top of the styrofoam boards.
Tomorrow I'm borrowing a laser to get a level reading on the floor to mark for the concrete and then I'll be waiting for getting the concrete, if the last of my brewing equipment arrives and the weather is nice, have an outdoor brew day.
Time taken: 3 hours.
Tools used:
Wheelbarrow
Shovel
Iron rake
Saw
Knife
Measuring band
