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Tap handle clearance?

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c3hutson

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Just a quick question. I have run beer lines from my keezer in the basement, through the floor underneath a kitchen cabinet and mounted the shanks outside of the cabinet. Works great, but the clearance for longer tap handles is... very close. The top of my medium size handle rests against the cabinet when closed.

I have some larger tap handles I want to start using so I am planning on spacing from the cabinet to solve this problem. I forgot to measure the thickness I'd need before leaving the house and need to get the materials before I get home to have this ready for a party.

Do anyone know the general "rule of thumb" of spacer thickness to solve potential clearance problems?

Chad
 

tenbricks

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It sounds like you're looking for an angle bonnet.

Or, what I've done for handles that barely don't clear is drill out the top back of the shank hole, enough to allow a small shim to angle the faucet slightly downward.
 
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c3hutson

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I ended up spacing the shank out from the wall with a board that matches the cupboards, then a thick rubber washer between the shank black plastic washer and the wall. Perfect clearance now.

image-1083408113.jpg
 

dkwolf

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I'm curious - with that length of beer line running outside of the keezer, how much temperature drop do you notice on the first pour of the day? In other words, how much beer is sitting in the un-chilled lines, attaining room temperature, and does it have a noticeable effect on a full pour? My basement bar build plan involves a small(ish) keezer in a closet right next to the bar, and lines run through the wall, but I wasn't sure if I needed to find some way to chill the lines outside of the keezer as well. I'm guessing I'd have maybe 1/10th or less of the "exposed" line that you do?
 
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