Sweet Carbonated Cider with "Stovetop Pasteurising"

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Chalkyt

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Yes, I know we have had lots of posts on this topic, but I figured that my recent (somewhat successful) experience might "add to the body of knowledge".

I finally got around to trying stovetop (or heat) pasteurising. In my case I used SWMBO’s electric preserving bath (reasonably easy to control the temperature by turning it on and off, etc).

I had mixed success with the process but am quite happy with the results. By accident rather than design, on reflection the first batch more or less followed the Cooler Pasteurisation method proposed by JimRausch and others, even though I was trying to be a bit “scientific” by measuring temperatures, bottle pressure and times etc.

The second batch produced one bottle bomb because I let the temperature get too high 68C (155F) for too long (26 minutes including pre-heating!) while I was monitoring bottle pressure without realising that the pressure gauge seal was leaking. KABOOM, Duh!

Sadly because of this I wasn’t able to determine how much bottle pressure was generated at Kaboom time as I was looking to see what temperature and time combination lets the pressure stay well below the “safety limit” for used beer bottles.

From what I can determine, about 50psi (a bit over 3 atmospheres) is about the limit. The plan is to make a better monitoring rig and maybe post some time, temperature and pressure figures. Incidentally the bottle that blew was a used 333ml Heinekin that weighed 10g less than the others in the batch (the others were all in the 195 -205g range). Maybe it was an underspec or flawed bottle, but still too close for comfort. All part of the learning process folks!

Anyhow, the reason for posting all of this is to suggest that off-dry petillant cider is reasonably easy without blowing up the kitchen. The idea is to understand the concept of using Pasteurisation Units (PUs) to stop fermentation, which explains why the Cooler Pasteurisation and similar Stovetop type pasteurisation methods work.

I first came across the idea of PUs in Bembel’s post of 5 May 2016 while scratching around on the forum, and PU monitoring seems to be common practice in brewing for setting up the process for pasteurising beer. Basically 1 PU results from heating the brew to 60C (129F) for one minute. More temperature or more minutes equals more PUs. However, the “trap” is that the bottle pressure rises somewhat exponentially with increasing temperature as CO2 is forced out of the liquid and expands into gas in the bottle airspace, so many of us have been reluctant to risk kabooms.

The “rule of thumb” seems to be that for cider, you need 50 PUs to kill the yeast to stop fermentation and stop carbonation, although this figure is a bit rubbery as there is quite a wide range of figures quoted in the literature. For example, most breweries seem to work on 15 -25 PUs. Nevertheless, 50 PUs for amateur cider makers seems to be a conservative target with a fair margin of safety. I guess that what this means is that the pasteurisation process doesn't need to be controlled very precisely as any number between 30 and 50 will probably do the job.

So using the PU approach, a carbonated cider with some sweetness should be possible, especially with some method of measuring how many atmospheres (or psi) are in the bottle at the time of pasteurisation. (A pressure gauge set up on a test bottle or by estimating from the rate of fermentation where 0.001 SG drop = 0.51 atmospheres of CO2)

e.g. bottle at SG 1.010, let 2 atm (around 30 psi) of pressure develop (from a SG drop of about 0.004), then heat pasteurise to stop fermentation and get a slightly sweetened, carbonated cider that is 1.006.

Mind you, without getting too scientific about it, Jollicoeur quotes 10 minutes at 65C (149F) which results in about 50 PUs according to the following formulas and this also is roughly in line with what happens with the various Cooler Method posts on this forum.

Anyhow, the scientific bit for those who are interested, is that you can determine the temperature and time needed to stop fermentation by monitoring how many PUs are generated from heating the bottled cider. Setting up a spreadsheet to do the calculations and monitor progress is quite straightforward, or (shock horror!) you can even use a pencil and paper.

There seems to be two formulas in common use which result in roughly the same answers, based on temperatures at or above at 60C (140F) which is the minimum for pasteurisation to take place.

(1).....PUs in 1 minute =1.393^(T-60) where T=temperature

(2).....PUs in one minute= (10^((T-60)/7) where T = temperature

At 65C (149F), Formula 1 gives 5.25 PUs per minute and Formula 2 gives 5.18 PUs per minute. Not quite the same but near enough as they both result in approximately 50 PUs over about 10 minutes.

So, allowing for a few PUs in the heating up and cooling down phases, the Cooler Pasteurising methods come pretty close to this (maybe even a bit over) with minimum risk of bottle bombs and overcooked taste.

Feel free to discuss, challenge or whatever in relation to this but I hope it helps with trying to understand how to achieve the "Holy Grail" of sweetened carbonated cider.

Phew, now what I need is a nice off dry petillant carbonated, cool cider!!!
 
Awesome post, thank you. I like the idea of someone else using and sharing their PSI readings as well, since that is about as scientific as I've been getting. May I assume that you're talking about 70F when you mentioned your 30PSI?
 
Yes, 2 atm is what I usually aim for. Our Autumn (cider making time) ambient is around 20C (70F).

Although it is Summer here now and very hot, my cider is stored in a Cool Storeroom at around 18C (64F) which we use for produce, preserves, pickles. So I was pretty much able to let the bottle warm up a bit and replicate the normal Autumn conditions. The two test batches were store-bought juice (trying Graham's English Cider recipe) because I wanted to trial heat pasteurisation before using my "proper" apples in a few months time.

We had been away for a couple of days so the second test batch had "overshot" a bit and was 2.25 atm (maybe 35-40 psi) when I started pasteurising so everything was sort of heading the wrong way from the beginning.

The "pressure test" bottle was plastic with the pressure gauge through the cap, sealed with an "O" ring on the cap between two washers and nuts. It seemed robust enough but the bottle was quite firm when I started, and during the process the pressure on the gauge seemed to top out at 2.5atm which I guess is where it started leaking. I quite happily went along assuming that 2.5-3 atm was the pressure whereas in fact it was probably a lot more when the bottle went off.

Anyhow, I guess there were a number of factors at play that need to be overcome next time. As with Mylar's first attempt, the bottom of the bottle bulged out due to the pressure and so it fell over in the bath causing great confusion around the time of the bottle bomb (a bit like ten pin bowling, with bottles going everywhere), also the plastic screw on cap may have softened or deformed due to the temperature and contributed to the loss of pressure.
 
Well Merry Christmas to you down under from me, where? Up over??

Anyways, it seems as though you, me and Maylar are the only ones to post about using pressure gauges for bottle carbonating. However, Maylar has moved on to keg carbonating.

On that note, I came across Maylar's gauges while reading the whole sticky on pasteurizing. Yeah, every page. I bought the gauge, the 1/8" FIP x 10-24 male. I used a 3/16" drill bit through the cap which was a very tight fit, so the gasket is on the side of the adapter against the cap, no washers.

Anyways, I don't want to side track this thread as I always cold crash, all the bottle bombs in the sticky and even yours here keeps me on that path. But hoping that we can perhaps collaborate on carbonation 'readings' via the gauges either here in another thread. We talk about volumes and I looked to this chart here:

https://www.brewersfriend.com/force-carbonation-chart/

So I have let them get to at least 30 psi before sending them off to the fridge.

However, in my thread here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/bottle-carbonation-readings-conundrum.672554/

I had the conundrum since it would seem that I should expect drop in pressure, the pressure didn't seem to drop as much as the chart would suggest once in the cold. For example, I have a few bottles right now that are at 25 psi at 35F but I can guarantee that the CO2 volume is nowhere near 4 atm as the chart I linked would say.

Thanks.
 
Yep, happy to share information, but nothing much will happen for a couple of months until the apples are ready and I make my new test bottle (flip top Grolsch type with heavy glass).

I repaired the leaky test bottle cap (with a view to drinking the contents soon). After a week or so the pressure in there is now stable at around 10psi . I expected that since it was now pasteurised, the pressure would stay at zero (i.e no more fermentation) after I retightened the cap. However there is a fair bit of head space so I suppose that with zero pressuure, CO2 has come out of the cider and filled the space to some sort of equilibrium.

I guess that the other issue that I have is that we are at 1000 metres so our air pressure is about 10% less than sea level, the external pressure on the bottle therefore is less (say 0.9 atm rather than 1atm), so the net bottle bomb pressure on the glass is more (although I don't suppose that 10% matters that much if you are in KABOOM territory). Whoa, my head hurts!
 
Little bit off topic -- as I never pasteurize -- I keep my ciders refrigerated once done...which stops or Significantly slows any additional fermentation after my cold crashing & racking.

Anyhow....here's a D47 endeavor...FG 1.02 & ABV 8.1% -- after bottle carbing at mid60's for 10days (nothing added to carb it up...just residual yeast post cold crash & rack)

Cheers [emoji111]
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Little bit off topic -- as I never pasteurize -- I keep my ciders refrigerated once done...which stops or Significantly slows any additional fermentation after my cold crashing & racking.

Anyhow....here's a D47 endeavor...FG 1.02 & ABV 8.1% -- after bottle carbing at mid60's for 10days (nothing added to carb it up...just residual yeast post cold crash & rack)

Cheers [emoji111]View attachment 659138
Wow, that's something. I got a nice head on a bottle made with EC-1118, bottled with just added juice for about 5-7 days mid 60's, then cold crashed. After a couple weeks in fridge, pressure is on the rise slowly and my second to last bottle did that ^^^. I think I'll get to that last bottle tonight.
 
I guess that the other issue that I have is that we are at 1000 metres so our air pressure is about 10% less than sea level, the external pressure on the bottle therefore is less (say 0.9 atm rather than 1atm), so the net bottle bomb pressure on the glass is more (although I don't suppose that 10% matters that much if you are in KABOOM territory). Whoa, my head hurts!
I am at a bit over 6,000ft so more than 2000 meters myself. Which way do you think that would skew the scale? More PSI to get to the desired Co2?

Real quick, you say you have a bottle that's back up to 10 psi after pasteurization. Is this at room temps or fridged?

Also, hope you and yours stay safe from the fires down under your way.
 
The bottle is in the coolstore at 18C (65F). I think that a lower atmospheric pressure would increase the possibility of bottle bombs. The net pressure trying to blow the glass out is the pressure inside the bottle less the outside pressure which sort of presses in.

Thanks for your concerns. We are just about in the middle of the fires right now and are geared up waiting to see what is happening. The ski resorts are running their snowmaking guns (just water, of course) and hoping that the fires don't get too close. Sadly, one of the major fires has caused the evacuation of Batlow on the other side of the mountains. Batlow runs an annual "Ciderfest" and is surrounded by orchards and a small number of semi-commercial craft cider makers. The "Batlow fire" is causing some issues for the northern part of our region but so far we seem to be O.K.
 
The bottle is in the coolstore at 18C (65F). I think that a lower atmospheric pressure would increase the possibility of bottle bombs. The net pressure trying to blow the glass out is the pressure inside the bottle less the outside pressure which sort of presses in.

Thanks for your concerns. We are just about in the middle of the fires right now and are geared up waiting to see what is happening. The ski resorts are running their snowmaking guns (just water, of course) and hoping that the fires don't get too close. Sadly, one of the major fires has caused the evacuation of Batlow on the other side of the mountains. Batlow runs an annual "Ciderfest" and is surrounded by orchards and a small number of semi-commercial craft cider makers. The "Batlow fire" is causing some issues for the northern part of our region but so far we seem to be O.K.

Aussies are a tough lot and they stick together when things get bad. I pray you get rain soon.
 
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