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Stewie del Gato

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Alcohol and I are on a little break, but why should that stop the homebrewing? I'm working on perfecting the Low Alcohol (<1% ABV) beers.

My questions to the experts is...can I switch up the brewing process and mash->ferment->boil? I'm thinking mash first, then hit it with Camden tabs or pitch a lot of yeast (to suppress infection and wild yeast fermentation) and ferment. Then cold crash/clarify/filter to remove most of the yeast and do a 90 min boil with hop additions. A few other questions...what about DMS/SSM/DMSO? What about the hot and cold break proteins staying in the wort and how will the yeast treat it? I'm thinking that the "unbroken" protein will be beneficial for the yeast, but I wonder if it's too much. I plan to do this with multiple beer styles, but will start off with a pale ale or IPA to mask any off flavors. I may just need to split a batch and compare a normal process to an altered process.

I recently split a normal batch with a pal and pulled the wort out of the boil at about 50 min after bittering hops, but before late additions. I fermented that then heated it up to 180F to drive off the ETOH. I was shooting for a 30min heat and added my late addition hops, but kept smelling alcohol coming off so ended up heating for about 70min. The beer came out much darker than expected and is very cloudy. A good bit of the cloudiness is probably coming from the dry hops (used LupuLN2s). The beer is okay. You wouldn't pinpoint it as a NA/LowA beer, but it's missing something (duh). I've sent off a bottle for ABV analysis.

Any other suggestions? High mash temp...add dextrins...etc?

Stewie
 
about a year ago I made a 0.9% abv beer with loads of hops and some carapils - it was drinkable but I have not repeated it. I find 2.3% is as low as I can go and say that is really nice.....
 
During prohibition beer was made with alochol, then heated to drive off the alcohol before being carbonated. That may be your best bet for a very low or non alcohol beer that still tastes like beer.
 
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