Studding my basement - first steps?

[Cheesefood]

I'm thinking about studding out my basement. I don't plan on drywalling, probably just hang some paneling on it to finish it. (Townhouse basement, no need to insulate the walls.)

I'm thinking of just using 2x2's instead of 2x4's to save money. Here's some q's:

1. We just have a concrete floor there. I'd probably like to put some carpet of linoleum down eventually. Do I need to put down floorboard?
2. Does floorboard go down before I start studding?
3. Since I'm going to use 2x2's for the walls, do I use a 2x4 for the base?

Thanks!

 

[Orfy]

It depends on how well you want to do it and how level/straight the floors and walls are.

Is there any damp?

U find plaster board (dry wall) is cheaper than paneling, easy to cut and if you tape the joints you can jsut use lining paper and paint. At a later date you could always plaster it then.

If you have damp then I'd put some type of membrane up first.

As for the flooring I'd look at using lamnate if you are brewing down there.

 

[homebrewer_99]

I used that epoxy paint for garage and/or basement floors in my brew kitchen. If that's what you're doing it only comes in tan or grey.

While it's still wet you pour paint chips on it. After it dries the floor will crunch a while as you step on the crips and break them off. They sweep up later.

 

[david_42]

You can actually just use firring strips (AKA 1x2) for the walls if they are even and smooth. Glue them on with construction adhesive.

I'm a bear for insulation. Unless you've had some damp issues with the floor, I'd lay down a 2x4 frame, insulate with fiberglass and top with OSB and whatever.

 

[Pumbaa]

I'm thinking of just using 2x2's instead of 2x4's to save money.

Just make sure 2x2 are "in code" or you are going to cost yourself a ton in the long run

 

[Bernie Brewer]

Never, ever, put down a wood floor in a basement, unless you want some serious mold and mildew problems. If your basement floor is level, you're good to go. You could fasten your framing with tec screws, sleeve anchors, or you could prolly just run a bead of PL400. Better yet run the adhesive and use the tec screws.
If your basement isn't level, you'll want to put down an application of a self-leveling compound first. You can get it at all the big home improvement box stores.

Also, how waterproof is your basement??? As someone who just went through 2 years of water issues, I can tell you that the time to take step to insure a dry basement is before yo finish it, not after. There are lots of products and services out there that will do the job, and guarantee it for like 25 years. Good luck!

 

[Hopfan]

When I studded my basement, I used metal studs. power nailed the base into the concrete, the top screwed into the joists. Once they're in, the studs are a piece of cake to put in with a screw gun. If you make a mistake, just remove the screw and re-position. They already have the channel holes cut to run wiring (just need the grommets) and I got a dead straight & plum wall in no time. Once the drywall (or panel pieces) are up, you'd never know it wasn't wood framed. The bonus was that the studs were cheaper than wood at the time.

 

[ScoutMan]

With the price of materials, use hat channel to frame the walls (It's light guage metal, won't rot or mildew, and doesent require a top or bottom plate.) You will need a Hilti or some other kind of powder actuated concrete fastening device, but they can be rented just about anywhere. As for the floor, if you want carpet, seal it up and lay down some commercial carpet. If you want an easy surface to care for, use some self leveling compound and some VCT .(commercial vinyl tile).

 

[rdwj]

I'm thinking about studding out my basement. I don't plan on drywalling, probably just hang some paneling on it to finish it. (Townhouse basement, no need to insulate the walls.)

I'm thinking of just using 2x2's instead of 2x4's to save money. Here's some q's:

1. We just have a concrete floor there. I'd probably like to put some carpet of linoleum down eventually. Do I need to put down floorboard?
2. Does floorboard go down before I start studding?
3. Since I'm going to use 2x2's for the walls, do I use a 2x4 for the base?

Thanks!

1. No, but if you do, use tile backer board.
2. No
3. I'd HIGHLY suggest using 2x4's. They're not THAT much more expensive. And make sure you use the treated 2x4's for the base.

 

[RichBrewer]

I know I'm late on this but I finished a room for my son in the basement a little over a year ago.
In my city, the code requires floating walls in basements with concrete floors. This is done to prevent damage if the floor heaves upward. The wall actually hangs from the floor joists above. treated lumber is attached to the floor and large spikes are nailed through drilled holes in the wall and base plate. If the floor heaves, the movement will be absorbed with the space between the bottom of the wall and the base plate.
I actually found this system extremely simple to put up. I used a power nailer to attach the base plates to the floor. I then built the walls so there would be about a 3 inch gap between the wall and the base plate. Each wall was positioned over the base plate and I used 2 small 2x4s clamped on either side of the wall and the base plate to center it. I used clamps to hold the wall to the floor joists above until it could be leveled and secured. I used screws to secure the walls to the joists. I was able to do all of this without any help.
I used sheet rock for his room. Installing it was easy. The mud and tape was a pain in the arse.