Stuck Regulator

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Chriso

Broken Robot Brewing Co.
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My regulator is stuck. Luckily, I manhandled it from 0 back up to 6 or 7 psi so that I can still dispense. But I can't force carb or seal up my kegs. And I can't adjust it from the 6-7psi that it's currently seized up at.

Can I buy just the black regulator bit (detached, shown above) without buying the whole body? Anyone got some good links for it?

I don't want to have to shell out $50 for a whole new body, gauge, and all. :(

Also, anyone had theirs seize up before? Thoughts on what caused it / how to prevent it? I've only had my tank since... January maybe? February? I bought the regulator used from the fire supply store, but it was "used" because they installed it, knocked the tank over, and cracked the plastic lens, so they switched it out for another new one. It hadnt actually been used for any period of time.

Thoughts? Suggestions? (I'm sure Sciplus probably has them right there, with my luck. I *always* fail at searching Sciplus, I always use the wrong search terms. I know about the 36807 CO2 SPLITTER but from what I understand, that's not a primary regulator, right? That just goes inline to add 2, 3, 4 more on the end? Or is that actually what I need, and I'm just a idiot?)


Edit: It fell apart. After looking at the pieces (they make so much sense now!) it is JUST the body that is broken. The screw has seized inside of the body, all the other parts seem to be Okay.
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Any sources on just a screw & body?
(that sounds dirty. ;) )
 
Check northern brewer. i believe I saw rebuild kits for regulators there once.

Rebuild kits are usually just the diaphragm and o-rings needed to rebuild the internals of the regulator body.

OP: I've not seen replacement body shells, unfortunately.
 
Depends what type of regulator it is I suppose.

I'd drop MicroMatic a line and see if they can get it for you. Might save on the time spent searching for one.
 
This problem seems to be wide-spread. I suspect it is due to steel screws in aluminum regulator bodies. Put that combination in a moist environment & corrosion is certain. Removing the screw and coating it with an anti-seize compound might be a wise move for anyone with this arrangement.
 
Cornelius brand dual gauge. I'll try emailing Micromatic... I just sent Simgo an email too.
Thanks for the tip, David, I'll be sure to do that on the new body, if/when I find it.
I'll probably go to the fire supply store I got it from, today, to check if they have spares or other broken reg's I can take the part from or something.
 
Cornelius #183233059 - Cover Regulator Black is the part. Now, I just have to find a source. Hmm.

Time to call the local guys. They might have one.

Cornelius 183233059.jpg
 
If you can get the screw out by placing the cover in a soft jaw vice then tap the hole and run a die over the screw. if you keep your tank in the keezer then it is probably corroded, or maybe the nut got tighten down and pulled the threads in the housing or stretched the screw. The A.S.S. regs are round covers not square, but they do have primary ports for tank pressure gauges. they are rated at 1800 psi, but that might be just the housing. The only difference I can see between primary and secondary is the spring rate on the diaphragm. I believe the safety valves are the same.
 
This problem seems to be wide-spread. I suspect it is due to steel screws in aluminum regulator bodies. Put that combination in a moist environment & corrosion is certain. Removing the screw and coating it with an anti-seize compound might be a wise move for anyone with this arrangement.

This is definitely the problem. condensation on the screw and body corrodes and locks up the screw. The fix is simple enough. Everyone should pull the screw completely out of the body and coat the threads with either anti-sieze or graphite powder. NO SPRAY ON LUBRICANTS OR OILS THAT WILL DRIP ONTO THE INTERIOR PIECES OF THE REGULATOR PLEASE!!! If you don't have any of the items I mentioned on hand, just use a pencil. Rub the "lead" all over the threads to lube them up. You'll be amazed at how much easier that screw turns:)
 
Oddly enough, I never stored mine inside the fridge. It's on an un-cooled front porch, though, and I would certainly believe the Nebraska humidity could've produced the same result. Sad, it was only 6 months old.

I spoke with the guy @ the fire supply store I bought it from, and he hadn't heard anything about that issue ever occurring... He said to bring it by tomorrow and he'd swap me for another, though! Yay for that!

The parts list that I attached above calls the part "Cover Kit (Includes Nonremovable Adjusting Spring)... so I don't know if all brands will remove all the way like you are saying, Shafferpilot. BUT - Have no fear, if your brand does NOT remove all the way, just turn the reg down to 0, and coat as much of it with graphite as you can, then thread it back in and out a couple times. That should transfer at least some graphite to the internal thread.

One more note, if you're having trouble finding Anti-Seize lubricant, many auto parts stores sell it in a single-size little foil "pouch" for 99c at the cash register. You can also buy a full size tube, if you find you use it frequently.
 
Update to the update: Took it in yesterday, turns out they close earlier than 5pm. I took off work early for nuthin'. Dammit.

Took it in today at lunch. They don't sell that kind of regulator, and never have. Turns out that it wasn't just a returned one, it was a traded-in one from some guy who got rid of his beverage system. They had it sitting around for a while taking up space, and that's why they gave it to me so cheap. If I find my receipt, they'll give me that much in credit towards a new one, the other brand with the round body, and without the 4 screws.

I'm tempted to eat the loss, and buy one online instead, so that I can get one with a nice hand-knob instead of a screw. That way I can adjust it without tools. I'm going to hack at the old regulator, first, though to see if I can jerry-rig it so that I don't have to spend the moolah.

After all, I wasn't planning on a new reg, that'll get in the way of my new Apfelwein tap I wanted to buy!
 
hey all,
Been awhile since I've posted, but I had a keg at a party and the regulator must have broken because it doesn't give any readings. Is my best bet to try and fix it or buy new? Thanks.

Dan
 
is there gas in the tank? does the gauge work? try removing the line and opening the valve to see if gas is coming out. most regs have a small hole(venthole) on the diaphragm side. does gas escape from this hole? If so you have a torn diaphragm. Most likely though, some drunk cranked that screw in all the way and damaged the balance side of the regulator trying to get it to flow faster. If you think you can take it apart and remember how to put it back together, do it. If its damaged it should be fairly evident. Please remove it from the tank before disassembling it.<-my disclamier
 
I had a keg at a party and the regulator must have broken because it doesn't give any readings. Is my best bet to try and fix it or buy new?

You've got some troubleshooting to do. You can't assume, from what you typed at least, that it's the regulator.

First up. Beerthirty's on the right track. Remove your gas line from the bottom of the regulator. Leave the regulator attached to the CO2 tank. When you briefly open your tank's master valve, does CO2 come out? (Be careful and use both hands. It'll probably expel gas with a little bit of force.) If so, then the problem must be in either your line or the poppet on your keg.

Second, check the regulator turnscrew. Make sure you don't have it all the way down to 0. Turn it slowly, and just a little bit, to the right (clockwise). Then briefly open your tank valve again. Try this in short intervals, but don't force your screw. If you eventually get some gas to come out, then the screw was just too far to an extreme. If you still don't get gas, then your regulator could indeed be damaged. How old is it? What kind is it?

Third, are you sure that a hose didn't leak, and empty out your tank? You could have just lost the CO2 that was compressed inside of it, and may just need a refill. Once you're full again, take a spray bottle of StarSan and spray your fittings, one by one, to test for a leak.

If you're not sure in your abilities on any of these steps, take it to the pro's. Find a local welding gas or fire extinguisher company, and ask for help. Do not do it yourself unless you are confident that you know what you're doing. You can hurt yourself or others.

If you still can't resolve issues, and don't have any companies around that service that kind of stuff, then I recommend starting a new thread, and including pictures of your setup, and posting all of the troubleshooting you've done, in detail.
 
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