American IPA Stone Ruination Clone

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Yooper

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Recipe Type
All Grain
Yeast
Pacman
Yeast Starter
Absolutely
Batch Size (Gallons)
5.00
Original Gravity
1.077
Final Gravity
1.013
Boiling Time (Minutes)
60
IBU
103+
Color
7
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
14 days at 62
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
1 week at 65 (dryhopping)
Additional Fermentation
Time in the keg
Tasting Notes
Very much like Stone Ruination, and it turned out really good!
14 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 93.33 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 6.67 %

1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 73.2 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 22.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 10.4 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

1 Pkgs Pacman Yeast (Wyeast) [Starter 50 ml] [Cultured] Yeast-Ale

You could use any well-attenuating clean ale yeast. WLP001, or Wyeast 1056 come to mind, or S05 for dry.

Mash at 152.
My beers seem to attenuate really well- so use a lower mash temp if you've have attenuation problems in the past. I got about 82% attenuation with the pacman yeast.

For extract, a full boil would be the same but use 8 pounds light or extra light DME.
For an extract batch with a 2.5 gallon boil, do this:
4 pounds DME
1 pound crystal 20
4 pounds DME (added at flame out)
Hopping the same.
 

BioBeing

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Damn you Yooper! Given how good your DogFish Head 60 recipe is, and how much I like Ruination, I have to try this one!

Too many beers, too little time!
 
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Yooper

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I don't remember where the germ of the idea came from- I think it might have been BYO a while back, so it's not strictly my recipe. I saw it a long time ago, and really wanted to do it. I have TONS of magnum, and still quite a bit of centennial, so I thought now was the time. So, I can't take full credit for the recipe, but I will be darned if I can remember where it came from originally!
 

jimrhut

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i'm cornfuzed in the extract batch did you really use 16 lbs of dme or is it just four?????? and what do you mean by "added at flame out"? is that when you let your grains steep or like a aroma hop at the very end???
 
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i'm cornfuzed in the extract batch did you really use 16 lbs of dme or is it just four?????? and what do you mean by "added at flame out"? is that when you let your grains steep or like a aroma hop at the very end???
It's 8 pounds of DME total.

4 pounds of DME added at the beginning of the boil.

4 pounds of DME at flame out. Flame out is, well, when you turn off the flame. Turn off the flame. Add the DME and stir until it's mixed.
 

StoutFan

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Sounds like a very tasty brew, might put this one in the list of upcoming hop-head brews!
 

humann_brewing

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jbambuti

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I brewed this recipe recently, but used 12 lbs of Pilsen LME. It came out really great. I liked it so much, that I brewed another batch a week and a half ago. I just dryhopped it yesterday and am looking forward to bottling it in another week and a half. I thought I'd bump the dryhop time to 10 days instead of 7, as I love the Centennial aroma. I heartily recommend this recipe to anyone.
 

humann_brewing

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What do you think about subbing warrior for the magnum? I've got a few ounces i need to use up, and i'd like to brew this.
I think Magnum has a much more forgiving bitterness. If you have had Pliny, it is primarily bittered with warrior although you can't tell too much with all the late additions but that should give you an idea.
 

McKBrew

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Sweet. Another brew to make once I start up again. Ruination is one of my favorite IIPA's, but the $15 a six pack makes it a luxury.
 

Gritsak

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I think Magnum has a much more forgiving bitterness. If you have had Pliny, it is primarily bittered with warrior although you can't tell too much with all the late additions but that should give you an idea.
Yeah i love pliny. I was thinking about increasing the late editions anyways since i've got a bunch of centennial (and cascade).

Maybe this won't turn out to be a ruination clone per se, but i'm sure it will be good nonetheless.
 

Gritsak

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Brewed a modified version of this about 1.5 weeks ago..sampled it today after taking a hydrometer reading and it's delicious. My version had a slightly different hop schedule that included a FWH with 1oz of cascade, Warrior for bittering, increased late additions, and increase dryhopping. I'm anxious to see how it tastes in a few weeks after dryhopping and some time in the keg.
 

Grasslands

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I'm brewing this recipe up (substituting w/extract) tomorrow night. I'm going to get as close as I can in color...but I'm completely stoked to brew this. Ruination has quickly become on of my favorite beers. I'm making a starter tonight so hopefully 24 hrs is a good enough lead-time for my yeast-starter.
 

RichBenn

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I'm brewing it tomorrow. I subbed great western "Pale Ale Malt" for most of the two row, and am using US-05 for yeast, because of what I have on hand. Any speculation on how this will change the flavor?

Also, has anyone done a tasting of this recipe against the real thing?
 

Grasslands

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After 3 long weeks, I'm finally ready to bottle mine tonight. Took an SG and didn't get quite the attenuation I was looking for, but the sample tasted like flat Ruination! We'll see I suppose.
 

RichBenn

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After 3 long weeks, I'm finally ready to bottle mine tonight. Took an SG and didn't get quite the attenuation I was looking for, but the sample tasted like flat Ruination! We'll see I suppose.
If yours is not well enough attenuated, mine will probably be just the opposite! Just got it into the carboy. I had tried using beersmith's calcs for water into grain vs. my usual grain into pre-heated tun and water, and, to make a long story short, it mashed mostly a few degrees less than I had planned. I usually hit it right on!

OK, it won't be even slightly malty. Then there is that US-05 yeast attenuation, where I'm always over 80%, even with higher mash temps. It could be I'm drinking hop extract! Alcohol and hops. Good thing I like hops! We'll see.....
 

Grasslands

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If yours is not well enough attenuated, mine will probably be just the opposite! Just got it into the carboy. I had tried using beersmith's calcs for water into grain vs. my usual grain into pre-heated tun and water, and, to make a long story short, it mashed mostly a few degrees less than I had planned. I usually hit it right on!

OK, it won't be even slightly malty. Then there is that US-05 yeast attenuation, where I'm always over 80%, even with higher mash temps. It could be I'm drinking hop extract! Alcohol and hops. Good thing I like hops! We'll see.....
I bottled mine and I was just a little off with attenuation (my theory) because I went with 9 lbs of LME. I'm going to try it again with DME or some sort of combo, then again when I go all-grain.

She did smell quite lovely though! Oh yeah, quick question for anyone who's dry-hopped before as this was my first experience. I expected some of my beer to be soaked up by the hops (which it was), but does anyone know what the absorbtion (sp?) rate is for 2 oz of leaf hops?
 

RichBenn

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I expected some of my beer to be soaked up by the hops (which it was), but does anyone know what the absorbtion (sp?) rate is for 2 oz of leaf hops?
I wish I knew! I go right into the keg after dry hopping, so I don't get a good measure. However, it "seems" like I lose a lot less than when siphoning out of the boil kettle with a similar amount of hops. But I cold crash and/or fine the wort before kegging, so it tends to settle everything down a bit. And now I use pellets for dry hopping, which is easier with carboys...
 
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What would be a good sub for the magnum? All I have is chinook, nugget, and colombus
Hmmm. Nugget would probably be closest. However, since it's for bittering, I don't think using columbus would be an issue either. Chinook would be ok, but would be my third choice out of that bunch.
 

Grasslands

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I used warrior in mine only because the LHBS didn't have magnum and warrior was their suggestion...i'll let everyone know how it turns out
 

RichBenn

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Hmmm. Nugget would probably be closest. However, since it's for bittering, I don't think using columbus would be an issue either. Chinook would be ok, but would be my third choice out of that bunch.
Columbus is what Stone is using for bittering Ruination this yearhttp://www.stonebrew.com/ruin/, so that is the "closest"! :mug: It's what I used in mine.
 

Helms

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I'm thinking of brewing this on the weekend. My problem is that I only have four ounces of Centennial available. Do you think it will be detrimental to drop the thirty minute addition entirely? I do plan on upping the sixty minute to adjust for bitterness.
 

Grasslands

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I'm growing antsy to try mine...I look at my calendar and I think: "Has it only been 7 days since I bottled?" Sheesh!
 
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HA! I just finally bought a 15 gallon kettle yesterday because I came up with a very tasty looking IPA recipe I desperately wanted to try. It would have been a chore with my little 7 gallon kettle.

Anyway, my recipe is almost identical to this one. Glad it's tried and true :mug:

Mine will be slightly smaller - 1.074 projected OG and 98 IBU's. All Magnum and Centennials though with U.S. 2-row 92% and Crystal 40 8%. Similar grain bill to my best pale ale, but more of it obviously:rockin: I'll also be boiling 90 minutes.

I'm 10 minutes into the mash:ban:
 

jerzeedevil13

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So I went with the extract version and my OG was off a bit 1.068, still bubbling on day 6. Wondering if more DME would have raised the OG ? I had 9 lbs only used 8 - 4 for the boil 4 at flame out ( looking back I dont know why I just didnt use the 1lb that was left over... Dont care so much for the final ABV as I do for the taste. I'm sure it will still turn out ok and I subbed warrior for the bittering hops.
Signed,
Anxious noob
 

jbambuti

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Don't worry so much. Yes, adding that extra pound of extract would have upped your OG. Your beer will just be a bit more hoppy than you expected. To some of us, that might be a good thing. I've made this recipe several times and I keep changing it to suit my tastes. I've raised the OG and added more hops to compensate, because I like bigger IIPA's. On the last batch, I went all Amarillo and added a bit of dextrose to get my FG a little lower. I'm also adding more dry hops. Obviously it will be nowhere near a clone, but I'm really after a beer that I love, regardless of the similarity to the original. I'll post my results when it's finished.
Relax and enjoy the process.
 

Grasslands

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Snuck a taste of mine and even though it needs around a week more to fully prime, the sucker tastes awesome! Very very close to the original!
 

DMace

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I gave the extract version of this recipe a shot. Only I missed the part about a 2 1/2 gallon boil and only boiled 1 3/4 gallons. The result was that most of my DME turned to hard candy when I added the final four pounds at flame out. I did manage to add some water and dissolve most of it, but had a slight caramelized flavor when I tasted the hydrometer sample... which read 1.058. I've read about other home brewers on here having the sugars caramelize because of a boil over, but never read about my situation. Anyway, should I expect a bad batch? Anyone share a similar experience?
 

jbambuti

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I usually add my DME a little at a time, while whisking it in. This saves me the trouble of melting the 'hard candy' from dumping it all at once.

The caramelized flavor you describe, unless you truly carmelized it, which is doubtful at flameout, is probably the Caramel 20L. Mine have had a slight caramel taste, which I like. Can't say if yours if from that, or if it has that burned sugar taste. If it's the latter, maybe it came from your first addition.
 

Grasslands

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Did a side-by-side taste test last night and it was dead on! Color is a tad bit darker however plus a much more noticeable aroma of cascade hops - I'll post pictures soon enough. SWMBO actually preferred mine!
 

RichBenn

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Did a side-by-side taste test last night and it was dead on! Color is a tad bit darker however plus a much more noticeable aroma of cascade hops - I'll post pictures soon enough. SWMBO actually preferred mine!
I can't wait to taste mine! A week of cold crash, then dry hop in the keg for a week or two and then it's sample time! It'll be nice to get to this IIPA after running out of my last Pale Ale.

Rich
 

Jeebas

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I'm thinking of trying this recipe out for my first non-ingredient kit batch... How long should I leave this to condition in the bottles? Longer than 3 weeks?
 

BioBeing

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An Imperial IPA usually does well being drunk fresh, so just give it long enough to carbonate (I was drinking my Pliny after less than 2 weeks, and it was awesome). My Ruination has only been in the bottles for a few days though, so that is not long enough :(
 

jerzeedevil13

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Im going to dry hop mine this weekend, it's just taking toooooo long.
Cant wait to start sampling. Another month or so for me :(
Whats better? whole hops or pellets ? and would you use a bag or just dump them in there ?
 

Grasslands

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Im going to dry hop mine this weekend, it's just taking toooooo long.
Cant wait to start sampling. Another month or so for me :(
Whats better? whole hops or pellets ? and would you use a bag or just dump them in there ?
I used whole hops and just racked on top of them. Not sure what the pros/cons would be for using pellets though.
 
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