Still no STC-1000 fahrenheit model?

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day_trippr

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There is in fact a dual-stage temperature controller that looks just like the STC-1000 but reads in Fahrenheit. You can find it here at a fair price...
TemContollerISO-90x90.jpg


[Standard disclaimer applies: I have nothing to do with this product and won't make a dime for the reference]

Cheers!
 

Wynne-R

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It’s scary that the wiring diagram returns the output of the relay to neutral. That might be a nifty way to check your circuit breaker, but the resulting short circuit will probably destroy the controller.

I looked for an email address, but there isn’t one on the website. If anybody orders one of these things you should tell the guy to fix the diagram.
 

day_trippr

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It’s scary that the wiring diagram returns the output of the relay to neutral. That might be a nifty way to check your circuit breaker, but the resulting short circuit will probably destroy the controller.

I looked for an email address, but there isn’t one on the website. If anybody orders one of these things you should tell the guy to fix the diagram.

I had alerted the site owner a couple/few days ago about not only the potential for a user to take that diagram too literally - but that it didn't match the actual controller - which only has a 7 position terminal strip and doesn't have an Alarm terminal.

When I checked the site just now the link to the errant diagram was dead.

At some point I hope they redesign the stc for the only country in the world that uses degrees F

LOL! Well, yeah, there's that...

Cheers! ;)

[edit/ps: If one simply follows the diagram printed on the top side of this controller you'll have a nifty dual-stage unit reading in the scale the one country of the world still uses ;) ]
 
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Homer

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I had alerted the site owner a couple/few days ago about not only the potential for a user to take that diagram too literally - but that it didn't match the actual controller - which only has a 7 position terminal strip and doesn't have an Alarm terminal.

When I checked the site just now the link to the errant diagram was dead.



LOL! Well, yeah, there's that...

Cheers! ;)

[edit/ps: If one simply follows the diagram printed on the top side of this controller you'll have a nifty dual-stage unit reading in the scale the one country of the world still uses ;) ]

I just looked at the pictures on that website and it looks like those diagrams still have the relays going to neutral, He also says that it has 15A capacity, but again, in the pictures it shows only 10A. Unless there are a some people on here that have bought one of these already, I will probably pass. I really don't mind if it is in deg C, I just want to make sure it will be dependable.
Is the Elitech one, the one most people are buying? Like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVCPH2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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day_trippr

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The Elitech ST-1000 is indeed the popular centigrade dual-stage controller.

fwiw, when I look at the diagram provided on the top side decal on the rc-310m, the proper wiring is unambiguous. The loads are clearly shown - and of course they have to connect to neutral else they're not loads at all!

Also, the relay ratings are exactly the same as the STC-1000 - and the same caveat applies: that it's not necessarily the relay rating that governs maximum current capabilities - there is pcb etch to consider as well...

Cheers!

rc-310m.jpg
 

Ramitt

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I really don't mind mine being in C, in fact I like that I am starting to get used to Centigrade and feeling more comfortable with the other more popular way of reading temp. FFS it takes 30 seconds or less to convert with a smartphone or pc.
 

MikePote

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My STC-1000 + Google conversion = STC-1000 in Fahrenheit

I had the same apprehension but really its not a big deal.
 

alphaomega

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I really do hope more ppl would give stc-1000+ a chance. In addition to being an stc-1000 that does have fahrenheit it adds more features that really adds both to usability as well as usage. And I think consesus among those who have tried it is that it is working very well.
I understand not everyone is able to upgrade themselves, but we're all partners in crime here. Maybe someone close to you does have the ability and could help out?
I would really like if homebrew clubs could offer this service.
I do think that if you would give stc-1000+ a try, you wouldn't regret it.
 

nyer

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I just finished my controller last night and I used the Fahrenheit model. The wiring diagram is wrong on the controller and the instructions.
The seller sent a note in the box saying that he would add a wiring diagram to his website. Thanks to members here mine appears to work perfect.
 

Hello

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Dumb question but if the diagram is wrong, is there a right one or is it the same as the centigrade model?
 

sdgenxr

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Dumb question but if the diagram is wrong, is there a right one or is it the same as the centigrade model?

The wiring diagram isn't technically wrong. It assumes that where the words Heat and Cool are you install your load device between the relay and neutral. Thus completing the circuit. Other wiring diagrams show just the hot side of the circuit, leaving the installer to figure out how to complete the circuit back to neutral.

Standard warning on things that can kill you. Understand what you are doing and do not follow guides blindly. Guides are just that, guides.

I personally have had one connected directly to my wine fridge for the past 4 weeks with out a single issue. This past weekend I wired up another one for a general temp controller sous vide style and it worked perfectly.

I agree with alphaomega in the use of his upgraded firmware and would really like to flash the controllers I have. However, not all the controllers are the same (even between the STC-1000's) and there is the additional cost and learning curve associated with Arduino that not everyone is comfortable with.
 

sdgenxr

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He also says that it has 15A capacity, but again, in the pictures it shows only 10A.

When reading the 10A rating on the relay, also notice that the rating is at 250V. If you do a quick web search for an electrical power calculator and enter the specified ratings on the relay, then recalculate at 110V and the resulting wattage (2500) you get 15A+.
 

wilconrad

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When reading the 10A rating on the relay, also notice that the rating is at 250V. If you do a quick web search for an electrical power calculator and enter the specified ratings on the relay, then recalculate at 110V and the resulting wattage (2500) you get 15A+.


Yes, the relay is rated at 15A at 110V, but the unit as a whole (PCB board, terminals, etc) is rated at 10A. I would not feel comfortable recommending that people feel safe wiring this thing up for 15A without exploring the limitations of the other components involved.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 

DustyBrew

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It is a big deal. WHY have some piece of paper taped somewhere when you can have Fahrenheit. This is the USA baby we want the best and DEMAND it..:drunk:
 

raouliii

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When reading the 10A rating on the relay, also notice that the rating is at 250V. If you do a quick web search for an electrical power calculator and enter the specified ratings on the relay, then recalculate at 110V and the resulting wattage (2500) you get 15A+.
The fundamental factor in relay contact rating is current, not power, so it doesn't really work that way.

Yes, the relay is rated at 15A at 110V, but the unit as a whole (PCB board, terminals, etc) is rated at 10A. I would not feel comfortable recommending that people feel safe wiring this thing up for 15A without exploring the limitations of the other components involved...
Actually, that relay appears to be rated at 12A/125VAC. I do agree that maximum current capacity of the entire unit is dependent on all current carrying components. Relay, PCB traces and terminals. Exactly what is the limiting factor is hard to say. I have inspected a number of different versions of these units and found varying depth/robustness of the PCB traces. It is safe to say that the manufacturers current rating of the device should be used.

Most fractional horsepower refrigeration compressors don't draw 10amps and momentary startup current can usually be discounted if cool delay function is used. Higher capacity cooling components such as window a/c units must be analyzed individually. Heater wattage/current is a design value that must be considered closely. For a fermentation chamber, where slow heating and cooling is preferable, 50w per carboy is more than enough.

The real danger using one of these units comes when someone attempts to use them to directly power a boil element, which should NOT be attempted. A recent thread showed photos of the resulting carnage.

HF32F-G Datasheet

--
 

sdgenxr

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The fundamental factor in relay contact rating is current, not power, so it doesn't really work that way.

Actually, that relay appears to be rated at 12A/125VAC. I do agree that maximum current capacity of the entire unit is dependent on all current carrying components. Relay, PCB traces and terminals. Exactly what is the limiting factor is hard to say. I have inspected a number of different versions of these units and found varying depth/robustness of the PCB traces. It is safe to say that the manufacturers current rating of the device should be used.

Most fractional horsepower refrigeration compressors don't draw 10amps and momentary startup current can usually be discounted if cool delay function is used. Higher capacity cooling components such as window a/c units must be analyzed individually. Heater wattage/current is a design value that must be considered closely. For a fermentation chamber, where slow heating and cooling is preferable, 50w per carboy is more than enough.

The real danger using one of these units comes when someone attempts to use them to directly power a boil element, which should NOT be attempted. A recent thread showed photos of the resulting carnage.

HF32F-G Datasheet

Agree completely and updated with new current rating specs provided. Thanks! :mug:
 

BrewDrinkRepeat

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I really do hope more ppl would give stc-1000+ a chance. In addition to being an stc-1000 that does have fahrenheit it adds more features that really adds both to usability as well as usage. And I think consesus among those who have tried it is that it is working very well.
I understand not everyone is able to upgrade themselves, but we're all partners in crime here. Maybe someone close to you does have the ability and could help out?
I would really like if homebrew clubs could offer this service.
I do think that if you would give stc-1000+ a try, you wouldn't regret it.

From reading the feature list it sounds like the STC-1000+ is fantastic (thank you for developing it!), and I lust to upgrade mine as I always do temperature ramps during fermentation. (I don't care about having to use celcius.) Unfortunately everything about the upgrade process flies so far above my head it might as well be in orbit. :(
 
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Homer

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I ordered the regular STC-1000, it should arrive soon, and I will strongly consider doing the STC-1000+ upgrade.
 

sdgenxr

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I ordered the regular STC-1000, it should arrive soon, and I will strongly consider doing the STC-1000+ upgrade.

Make sure you ordered the proper STC-1000 as I believe there are different versions that may or may not work with the upgraded firmware. Wish I remembered where in the that thread they talk about the different board versions, but it's in there someplace.
 

nyer

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I'm about an hour away from fermenting my first batch with my new Fahrenheit controller. I have been testing it for 2 days and so far so good. The only thing I notice is a 2 degree difference between the actual liquid temperature and what the reading is when I tape the probe to the outside of the fermented. Insulating it with bubble wrap and a towel doesn't seem to make a difference. I can live with two degrees.
 
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