Still Burping ?

[user 78027]

I brewed an IPA, OG of 1.061 3 weeks ago today. I dry hopped it 1 week ago and I was looking at it yesterday and noticed that every 10 seconds it burps a big gas bubble. I am supposed to cold crash it today but not sure if I should because of this gas thing. It is my first dry hop, is this normal?

 

[JonM]

What's your FG? Is it stable?

 

[user 78027]

What's your FG? Is it stable?

That is a problem, I don't know. I have as of yet never measured the FG until I drink my first bottle because it is a PITA, I usually let the beer ferment for 3 to 4 weeks in the primary and everything that is going to happen has happened.

I make 2.5 gallon batches and pulling enough to check takes too much of my precious brew. If that's my only alternative then that's what I will do.

 

[JonM]

The burping could just be temp changes, barometric pressure, etc.

I used to do lots of 2.5 gal batches. I would usually tweak the recipe to 3 gallons just for this kind of thing. That let me leave a quart of trub in the kettle to get 2.75 gals of clean wort in the fermenter (with Fermcap to keep the krausen in check), and, after samples, I'd wind up with 26-27 bottles.

 

[JLem]

That is a problem, I don't know. I have as of yet never measured the FG until I drink my first bottle because it is a PITA, I usually let the beer ferment for 3 to 4 weeks in the primary and everything that is going to happen has happened.

I make 2.5 gallon batches and pulling enough to check takes too much of my precious brew. If that's my only alternative then that's what I will do.

In theory, your plan of waiting 3-4 weeks SHOULD work. However, the only way to know for sure that your beer is done fermenting is with a stable gravity reading. It is possible that your fermentation is slow or stuck or even infected, which will continue to ferment the beer even after 3-4 weeks.

Also, the bubbling only indicates that there is gas escaping from the beer - could be a result of the dry hopping knocking some gas out of solution...could be an increase in temperature...could be a change in atmospheric pressure. Airlock bubbles do not always equal fermentation.

 

[user 78027]

In theory, your plan of waiting 3-4 weeks SHOULD work. However, the only way to know for sure that your beer is done fermenting is with a stable gravity reading. It is possible that your fermentation is slow or stuck or even infected, which will continue to ferment the beer even after 3-4 weeks.

Also, the bubbling only indicates that there is gas escaping from the beer - could be a result of the dry hopping knocking some gas out of solution...could be an increase in temperature...could be a change in atmospheric pressure. Airlock bubbles do not always equal fermentation.

Can I take a couple of refractometer readings and if it doesn't change then the fermentation is done? I know the value will be off, but it will tell me it is stable.

 

[johngaltsmotor]

Are you planning to keg or bottle?
If kegging I'd be inclined to cold crash and transfer to the keg.
If bottling and afraid of the residual sugars causing over carbonation (KABOOM) then I would accept the lost brew and take a hydro sample for FG.

With an IPA you don't want to waste the life of your dryhop aroma so the typical "just wait an extra week" might not be the ideal choice.

 

[JLem]

Can I take a couple of refractometer readings and if it doesn't change then the fermentation is done? I know the value will be off, but it will tell me it is stable.

I know there are spreadsheets out there that help you convert to a correct FG...though I have heard they are not particularly accurate..though I have also heard/read of others swearing by them.

I would not rely on just a stable refrac reading - again, you are probablyt fine, but I wouldn't want to risk bottle bombs (just because the reading is stable doesn't mean it is done...could also be stuck/slow)

 

[KepowOb]

Is taking a hydrometer reading that big of a PITA? I do it regularly and I don't really see why it's that bad. Sure, you end up removing some beer... but two readings shouldn't need more than ~400-450ml... that's just over one bottle.

 

[kaconga]

Logically a couple stable refractometer readings should be the same as a couple stable hydrometer readings. I say do the refractometer and then carry on from there.

 

[user 78027]

Is taking a hydrometer reading that big of a PITA? I do it regularly and I don't really see why it's that bad. Sure, you end up removing some beer... but two readings shouldn't need more than ~400-450ml... that's just over one bottle.

I have severe arthritis in both wrists. I have to pull the carboy, a 3 gallon better bottle, from the freezer, take the reading and put it back. I guess I need to figure this out so that's what I'll do.

 

[user 78027]

1.016 dead on. And it even tastes good, kind of No wasted brew

Thanks for all your help.

 

[flars]

I have severe arthritis in both wrists. I have to pull the carboy, a 3 gallon better bottle, from the freezer, take the reading and put it back. I guess I need to figure this out so that's what I'll do.

Are you using chest freezer or an upright?

 

[user 78027]

Are you using chest freezer or an upright?

I have a chest freezer. My issue is twisting my wrist so I have to lift the carboy up to 5 feet to get it over the wall. Thats why I use better bottles and 2.5 gallon batches.

 

[flars]

I have a chest freezer. My issue is twisting my wrist so I have to lift the carboy up to 5 feet to get it over the wall. Thats why I use better bottles and 2.5 gallon batches.

I would leave the carboy in the freezer to take the sample. Use a wine/beer thief. Remove the airlock and bung as a unit. Put the airlock and bung in sanitizer. Remove the sample to the hydrometer tube. Replace the airlock and bung. I have the hydrometer setting in a glass that is inside a one quart margarine container. No rolling hydrometer to break. I have the tube in a glass to catch the overflow. When I take the reading the sample gets poured into the glass for tasting. Get about three ounces for tasting with each sample.

 

[user 78027]

I would leave the carboy in the freezer to take the sample. Use a wine/beer thief. Remove the airlock and bung as a unit. Put the airlock and bung in sanitizer. Remove the sample to the hydrometer tube. Replace the airlock and bung. I have the hydrometer setting in a glass that is inside a one quart margarine container. No rolling hydrometer to break. I have the tube in a glass to catch the overflow. When I take the reading the sample gets poured into the glass for tasting. Get about three ounces for tasting with each sample.

That sounds like a plan to me, thanks. Thats what I will do next time:rockin:

 

[flars]

Have you considered a winch system or pulley system to lift carboys to the top of the freezer? Considering the aesthetics? Could go 5 gallons then.

 

[user 78027]

Have you considered a winch system or pulley system to lift carboys to the top of the freezer? Considering the aesthetics? Could go 5 gallons then.

I like the variety and I like to brew more often. With my setup I can have 6 brews going at the same time at different temperatures. Now I have the IPA cold crashing at 4C, I have a lager fermenting at 10C, and I have 2 ales fermenting at 18.5C.

Today is my birthday and I am irish so I am supporting my heritage. I'm brewing an Irish Red Lager and drinking an Irish Red Ale. So, I will have 2 Lagers going.

I have thought of a winch, but for now I can get by. I use the 3 gallon better bottles so they are not that heavy. Eventually I will, but I will have to fix the lid so it opens wider to get at the back row of carboys.