Does anyone here have experience using Melanoidin Malt in a Step Mash to simulate the effects of decoction? I have one recommendation of 6 oz. per 5 gal. batch. Are there any other malts that could help?
Step Mash and Melanoidin Malt
- Thread starter makellr
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I don't use melanoidin, but use aromatic, which is similar. Check out my recipe (ocas lishky) in the recipes tab under my avatar
I had not seen this recipe before. Thanks for sharing it. This recipe shows lots of imagination and the results speak for themselves. I am working on a Bohemian Pilsner recipe, not just interested in cloning PU. I will try to post the recipe later for your comments. My partner's set-up is very nice for step mash but decoction would be far more difficult.
Dear PJJ, just a little update here. WE've brewed this beer. It is fermenting now for about three weeks. Previously, the brewery had only been used for single infusion mashes. We had some "learning experiences" Re: how fast can you heat a mash with a HERMS coil, how to get a mash that shouldn't stick to be stuck etc. In any case, the beer did finish and go into a fermenter. Recent gravity check indicates it will be recognizable as beer when it finishes. So, I am thinking brew in a basket for stepped mashes, as I plan my own basement brewery. I remember reading somewhere that you have a copper manifold for mashing. Is it in a cooler? If so, how do you heat your mash for steps, or do you do it all with infusions?
How was your efficiency?
I have a large stainless steel stockpot that I use for a mash/lauter tun. It is magnetic stainless so I direct fire it with an induction cooker. It ramps at around 1.5 F per minute. The pot is wrapped in several layers of aluminized "bubble wrap".
My manifold is 3/4 copper tubing that I cut LOTS of slots in with a Dremel tool. Is roughly square with two cross pieces in the middle besides the tubing that makes up the square. One of the middle pieces has a T in it that connects it to the fitting in the side of the pot
Here are the components. 4 elbows, 5 T's , 3 long tubes, and 6 + 2 short tubes. Two of the sides consist each of elbow, short tube, T, short tube, T, short tube, elbow. These are permanently soldered up. To use I put the 3 long tube into the opening on one of the side pieces (two elbows, two T's) and then the 4th cross piece which consists of two short tubes with a T in the middle, and to the other side of the T, a really short tube, a 45 elbow, and enough tube to attach to the kettle fitting and center the manifold in the pot. Then the other soldered up side is attached.
It holds together pretty well just pressed into place, but I've taken to tying a string around it to hold it together. It then comes partially apart after use for ease of cleaning.
I have a large stainless steel stockpot that I use for a mash/lauter tun. It is magnetic stainless so I direct fire it with an induction cooker. It ramps at around 1.5 F per minute. The pot is wrapped in several layers of aluminized "bubble wrap".
My manifold is 3/4 copper tubing that I cut LOTS of slots in with a Dremel tool. Is roughly square with two cross pieces in the middle besides the tubing that makes up the square. One of the middle pieces has a T in it that connects it to the fitting in the side of the pot
Here are the components. 4 elbows, 5 T's , 3 long tubes, and 6 + 2 short tubes. Two of the sides consist each of elbow, short tube, T, short tube, T, short tube, elbow. These are permanently soldered up. To use I put the 3 long tube into the opening on one of the side pieces (two elbows, two T's) and then the 4th cross piece which consists of two short tubes with a T in the middle, and to the other side of the T, a really short tube, a 45 elbow, and enough tube to attach to the kettle fitting and center the manifold in the pot. Then the other soldered up side is attached.
It holds together pretty well just pressed into place, but I've taken to tying a string around it to hold it together. It then comes partially apart after use for ease of cleaning.
PJJ,
Every time you write I learn something new. I know about induction cooking, but had not considered it for brewing. Would you care to tell what size/model pot and induction heater? The manifold in the cooler here is a similar friction fit design with slits cut by hacksaw. It has perhaps 5 lin ft. with slits every 1/2 inch. O.D. is smaller, either 1/2 or 5/8. The problem was not the manifold, it was the genius brewers who put flakes into the grain grinder. Note to self and brew-partner: don't grind flakes.
Every time you write I learn something new. I know about induction cooking, but had not considered it for brewing. Would you care to tell what size/model pot and induction heater? The manifold in the cooler here is a similar friction fit design with slits cut by hacksaw. It has perhaps 5 lin ft. with slits every 1/2 inch. O.D. is smaller, either 1/2 or 5/8. The problem was not the manifold, it was the genius brewers who put flakes into the grain grinder. Note to self and brew-partner: don't grind flakes.
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