Step Infusion Mash

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pgasca

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Need some feedback.

Im doing a mash AG mash and have highly modified malt, and I understand I do not need to step mash (protein rest), but wondering if doing a step mash if it does any good? I have the time and don't mind doing it, but if it does absolutely no good, then I'll skip. Also, when does a step mash actually help?

Thanks!
 
If youre using a highly modified malt it is not necessary. The protien rest is generally used for modifying less modified adjuncts such as oats to get them gelatinized and convert some of their starches. Bobby from NJ has a very good series of videos on mashing on Youtube that go into this subject as well as the types of enzymatic activities produced at different temps. you should check them out.
 
Need some feedback.

Im doing a mash AG mash and have highly modified malt, and I understand I do not need to step mash (protein rest), but wondering if doing a step mash if it does any good? I have the time and don't mind doing it, but if it does absolutely no good, then I'll skip. Also, when does a step mash actually help?

Thanks!

If you are doing an infusion mash I can think of no reason to do more than one step with highly modified malts. Additional infusion steps add no flavor and with highly modified malts don't serve any purpose unless you have a large amount of adjuncts like wheat or barley flakes that you may want extra help in breaking down. If you are doing a Continental style beer you could do a short step in the 130/133F range and one to mashout if you are into the method.
 
I always do step mashes as it is easy to with my direct fired mash tun. A step mesh does not have to include a protein rest. One can do the starch conversion at two temperatures as well. I do this. I do a step at 147 F which is good for Beta-amylase activity, and then at step at 160 F which is too hot for Beta-amylase, but good for Alpha amylase. I vary the time at these temps depending on the beer style. If I want drier/lighter, it spend more time at 147. If I want full bodied/heavy, it spend less time at 147 and more at 160. This way I can get a light beer that still has some body, and a rich beer that is not too heavy.


Actually most of my beers use a lot of pilsner malt, so I also do a protein reat at 122 F for 20 min too.
 
I also do a two step (beta & alpha amylase) mash. I am a 5 gallon brewer and can't afford the space and equipment of manufacturing methods, so I stick to culinary methods. Therefor, my consistancy & reproducability are always suspect. It's OK, as those properties are not my goal.

This summer, I tried to prepare my American Red which calls for Amirillo & Pearle hops. After a couple of tries of replacing the not-to-be-found Amirillo with various combinations of Simcoe, Centennial, and Mt. Hood, I gave up and switched my attention to my version of ESB.

Since things were already in the experimental mode, the base malt was upped to 8 lbs from 6 (a very good idea). I also made two batches for a "Pillsbury bake off" comparison. The first batch used a single step infusion mash of 153 F for 60 minutes. The second batch had a step mash of 145 F for 30 min and 160 F for 30 min. I did a blind comparison of the kegged results. The second batch had a cleaner aftertaste without the foretaste being lighter. I am going to stay with the step mash, despite the extra work.

Today, I racked my first Kolschbier to secondary fermentation. The mash was 145 F for 30 min, then 152 for 60 minutes. The green beer taste is very reminiscent of a Pils but has a much nicer finish than the stuff from the store. It krausened within 10 hours, so I have high hopes. From my research, the secondary fermentation takes twice as long as English Bitter due to flocculation issues (20 to 30 days). The ideal temperature is supposed to be 60 F, but the lowest I can maintain is 65 F (in my basement with A/C). The Kolschbier will then be kegged and lagered for another couple of weeks. I'll let you know the result.

Note: I do not have a direct fired mash tun. I have a Coleman Extreme cooler in which I store most of my brewing gear when not in use. See previous remarks about manufacturing methods versus culinary.
 
Need some feedback. ..............Also, when does a step mash actually help?

Thanks!

To be a bit more blunt about it. A step mash helps when you do a step mash and then like that beer better than when you didn't use a step mash. If you don't like it better, than don't use one. This applies to any technique/ingredient you use.

It won't make profound changes in the beer. It is more subtle, but it can be what elevates a very good beer, to an exceptional one. It is more work, and for many it is not worth the extra effort.

I basically think of step mashes as a way to tweak the body of a beer (they might help boost efficiency depending on your system)
 
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