Steeping Grains?

[NorCalBrewer1]

I have some steeping bags, and I was wondering if I could just steep all the grains/hops during the boil/mash/etc instead of throwing it all in to have to filter/strain out after. It seems like it would be much cleaner, but would it be less efficient or not work to extract the fermentable sugars?

I'd be trying to steep:

Flaked Rice
Flaked corn
2-row, 6-row.
Hop Pellets

 

[duboman]

I have some steeping bags, and I was wondering if I could just steep all the grains/hops during the boil/mash/etc instead of throwing it all in to have to filter/strain out after. It seems like it would be much cleaner, but would it be less efficient or not work to extract the fermentable sugars?

I'd be trying to steep:

Flaked Rice
Flaked corn
2-row, 6-row.
Hop Pellets

You do not want to boil the grains, you will extract tannins and create astringency issues with the beer.

 

[NorCalBrewer1]

Oops, I didn't mean to say that =P...

I was typing fast. I meant after the water is heated to temp, can I steep the grains & flakes in bags in the hot water to extract the sugars, then remove the bags, add a hops bag during the boil, then chill the wort for ferment, aerate, then pitch.

And I would be stirring the bags around often during the process.

 

[duboman]

Yes

 

[brewkinger]

I have some steeping bags, and I was wondering if I could just steep all the grains/hops during the boil/mash/etc instead of throwing it all in to have to filter/strain out after. It seems like it would be much cleaner, but would it be less efficient or not work to extract the fermentable sugars?



I'd be trying to steep:



Flaked Rice

Flaked corn

2-row, 6-row.

Hop Pellets

I am confused. You are talking about steeping but I think you mean something different.

What I think you are talking about is Brew in a Bag (BIAB).

The 2 and 6 row are base malts with a bunch of fermentable sugars available and should be mashed for 45-60 minutes at a temp of between 148-158.
This will allow for conversion to occur.

Steeping is usually done with crystal malts and other such stuff to extract minimal sugars but provide color and flavor characteristics.

Is this your plan?


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[NorCalBrewer1]

Yes, brewing in those bags you can buy from the LHBS that's similar to very stretchy socks. Is it possible to do it this way since I have not made a filter at the bottom of my keggle? Or will it be too inefficient?

So I guess it's the BIAB method? I'm looking for conversion in the keggle by using the "steeping" bags holding all the grains, so this way I won't have to use a filter/strainer since I do not currently have one yet.

I could just place the bags over the 3 6gal fermenters (making 15gal) that I will be transferring the wort to, and pour into them as the bags hold back the grains and create a natural filter, then re-pour a few times back over each fermenter, but I think with doing 3 of them, the wort may be too exposed since it would take so long doing this method with 3 of them.

 

[brewkinger]

Yes, brewing in those bags you can buy from the LHBS that's similar to very stretchy socks.

I could just place the bags over the 3 6gal fermenters (making 15gal) that I will be transferring the wort to, and pour into them as the bags hold back the grains and create a natural filter, then re-pour a few times back over each fermenter, but I think with doing 3 of them, the wort may be too exposed since it would take so long doing this method with 3 of them.

Wow... You were on the right track there for a second.

Those "stretchy" bags are gonna e too small for what you want to do.
Either go back to LHBS and ask them for a BIAB bag
OR
To Home Depot in the paint section and ask for a paint strainer bag.

Much larger and more suited to your purpose.

To address the second part...
It sounds like you are planning on having to strain the grains after boiling and that is just confusing.
You should not be boiling the grains and having to strain them afterwards.

I am still confused as to your process and would suggest going to the BIAB subforum under the All Grain forum.

Get a handle on the process before you go too far.



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[Calder]

I have to say that I am confused as to what you are trying to do.

Sounds like you don't have a clue what you are doing. My apologies if I have not understood what you are after.

I would suggest you provide some simple clear information as to what you plan to do.

The best that I can get from this is that what you are doing will not work well.

 

[NorCalBrewer1]

Sorry if you don't understand. My 3rd paragraph is just another method I have seen where you cook the grains as usual, then drain the wort(with grains) into a secondary bottling bucket with a filter bag over them, so it catches all the grains, and the valve drains into another bucket where you catch the wort & pour back over the top until the grain bed acts as a better filter. Then continue to collect into other buckets and pour back into the keggle to a boil with the hops.

What I was talking about is EXACTLY what I found here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f244/biab-brewing-pics-233289/

I had no idea there was a BIAB section, (since it's a subforum), and I have not read anything that mentioned this method. Thanks for your help brew kinger, this is what I was looking for! I went to Home Depot and got some 5gal. paint strain bags.

I was just curious if this method is just as efficient as letting the grains cook freely in the 15gal keg, or if I'll get less conversion efficiency (less sugars).

 

[brewkinger]

OK....
Strainer bag (check)
BIAB forum link (check)

I assume that you have a kettle that is big enough to hold grain and water for BIAB.

I still think that your process is too much and still confusing.

List your equipment for us and then I can guide you a little better.
I just want to make it as simple as it can be for you.


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[RM-MN]

Simply put, your method will work but requires too many containers. BIAB uses a large nylon or polyester bag that lines the pot. The water is heated to a strike temperature such that when the grains are added it brings the temperature of the mix of grains and water to the proper mash temperature. The grains are stirred into the water and left at the mashing temperature until the starches are converted to sugars by the enzymes contained in the malted barley. Then the bag is raised and allowed to drain. You can squeeze the bag to get even more wort out. Now you have a pot full of sweet wort that needs to be boiled with whatever bittering agent you choose (typically hops) for an hour to extract the bittering and drive off the DMS, then cooled to the proper temperature to add the yeast.

 

[unionrdr]

As was stated, 2-row, 6-row, maris otter & the like are base grains that must be mashed for at least an hour at about 147-156F. I don't like to go over 155-156F, as certain of the enzymes will begin to denature while others can go as high as 167F or so before this happens. The December BYO has an article on this. Plus mash water to grist ratios are stricter compared to steeping caramel/crystal grains & the like. Base grains must be mashed in 1 1/4-1 1/2 quarts of water per pound of grain for an hour if well-modified. I heat sparge water in a separate kettle while the mash goes on to 170F. I pull my grain bag, drain it, then put it in the kettle of sparge water & stir. I give it 10 minutes, then drain again. I mix the main mash wort & sparged (rinsed) wort together to get my boil volume. I do partial boil, partial mash brew in a bag (PB/PM BIAB) myself. So 5-6lbs of grains mashed in some 2 gallons of water, then sparged with 1 1/2 gallons to get my boil volume of 3 1/2 gallons in my 5 gallon (20qt) SS kettle.