STC 1000 wiring diagram question

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brock_gonad

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Hi Guys,

I have a noob question on STC 1000 wiring. I wired my device according to this diagram.


STC-1000_outlet_wiring.jpg



I plan to use heating and cooling, so I broke off the metal tab on the side of the outlet taking wires from terminals 6 and 8 - that was clear.

What isn't clear is if I'm supposed to break off the tabs on the side of the outlet taking the neutral wires from terminal 2 and the wall plug.

This is what I did, and I get no power when I plug it in (STC 1000 won't turn on).

Thanks for the help
 
From the way that looks than no don't break off the tab on the neutral side.. Also. It's not on there but u might look into adding an in-fuse to protect ur system
 
That's what I suspected, but I don't want to start a fire if I transpose to another outlet and not break off the tab on the neutral side.
 
OK, I don't have a photo yet, but I can confirm that NOT breaking off the tab on the neutral side makes it all work as expected.

To me, the above was the most clear of the many wiring diagrams Google will bring up.

Note to others, do break off tab on hot side, do not break off tab on neutral side.

Thanks for the help!
 
Best diagram I found for what I need.

Here is a video of the same exact wiring method:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm a maß in at this point but from looking at the diagram it appears that you are bringing in two 110V hots for 220V and earth and connecting the 220 through switches in a controller, to 120 V outlets. That just doesn't strike me as a good thing to do. I assume the heating and cooling loads are both 220. If not, of course, you are courting disaster.

I deduce that it is 220 from the power supply connection because it is labeled 'Power Supply 220 VAC'. OTOH the color coding in your diagram suggests a single hot (black) and neutral (white) which indicates 110 volts coming in in which case the hookup is fine (assuming 110V heating and cooling loads).

Now this is the hard part and you must forgive me but IMO if you have to ask the questions you did about the straps you shouldn't be fooling with wiring. Please have an experienced person check on what you are doing.
 
Yes - I used the diagram above for 110v despite the labels saying 220 (ie: single 110 hot in, 110 cooling, 110 heating).

Works great.
 
Give me some credit :)

The 110V and 220V controllers are equally priced on ebay, but they are clearly marked. Since above, my setup has been working fine for nearly 4 weeks without incident.
 
I did that same build, but I added an indicator bulb next to each outlet. I got a green bulb and red bulb from Radio Shack, and simply wired one bulb to the hot tab screw and the common, and the other bulb to the other hot tab screw and the common. This way you can see if your outlet relays are working, even with nothing plugged in.
 
Hi Guys,

I have a noob question on STC 1000 wiring. I wired my device according to this diagram.


STC-1000_outlet_wiring.jpg



I plan to use heating and cooling, so I broke off the metal tab on the side of the outlet taking wires from terminals 6 and 8 - that was clear.

What isn't clear is if I'm supposed to break off the tabs on the side of the outlet taking the neutral wires from terminal 2 and the wall plug.

This is what I did, and I get no power when I plug it in (STC 1000 won't turn on).

Thanks for the help
It appears to me it isn't wired correctly. The power coming into the unt should be a direct line and not spliced into anything else. I had this same problem. The power for the Controller is isolated. And the outlet you are wiring it 2 cannot run 23 different perations, It has to either heat or cool. You need 2 seperate outlets.
 
From the wiring Diagram I see you are not getting 2202 volts to the Unit. The Power for the controller should come from a 220 volt circuit into the power side. Then wire you outlets or whatever you are going to use coming off the work Terminals.
 
This drawing is functionally correct:

STC-1000_outlet_wiring.jpg


What you're both missing is the intact bridge between the two Neutral terminals on the duplex outlet
(and assumes the hot-side bridge has been cut)...

Cheers!
 
Hi Guys,

I have a noob question on STC 1000 wiring. I wired my device according to this diagram.


STC-1000_outlet_wiring.jpg



I plan to use heating and cooling, so I broke off the metal tab on the side of the outlet taking wires from terminals 6 and 8 - that was clear.

What isn't clear is if I'm supposed to break off the tabs on the side of the outlet taking the neutral wires from terminal 2 and the wall plug.

This is what I did, and I get no power when I plug it in (STC 1000 won't turn on).

Thanks for the help

Hey guys. I am building a new metal tank that holds around 250 gallon of water. How long Will it take 2 110 volt Heating elemnts heat the water up to 90 Degrees F *, If it will or should I use 2 220 volt 5500 watt heating elements. Now this has nothing to do with brewinh beer. I am a HYdrographic Designer and Technician and I am building my own Dip Tank. And I want the water to heat up as fast as I can get it to. Can anyone help out with this question?:confused:
 
This drawing is functionally correct:

STC-1000_outlet_wiring.jpg


What you're both missing is the intact bridge between the two Neutral terminals on the duplex outlet
(and assumes the hot-side bridge has been cut)...

Cheers!
Is there any way to get both terminals to heat instead of one heat and one cool. Or, Can I run 2 Heating elements off the 1 heat terminal?
 
Is there any way to get both terminals to heat instead of one heat and one cool. Or, Can I run 2 Heating elements off the 1 heat terminal?

No, the relays in the STC can't handle that much current. In fact, you may not even be able to run one heating element directly with the STC. The relays are only rated for 10A, so you can't run more than 1200 watts total @ 120V or 2400W total @ 240V. You can use the STC to switch a high current contactor.

Brew on :mug:
 
Hey guys. I am building a new metal tank that holds around 250 gallon of water. How long Will it take 2 110 volt Heating elemnts heat the water up to 90 Degrees F *, If it will or should I use 2 220 volt 5500 watt heating elements. Now this has nothing to do with brewinh beer. I am a HYdrographic Designer and Technician and I am building my own Dip Tank. And I want the water to heat up as fast as I can get it to. Can anyone help out with this question?:confused:

250 gal of water is 3.785*250 = 946.25 L and weighs about as many kg.The specific heat of water is about 4186 joule/kg•°C. It thus takes 3.961e+06 joule to heat 250 gal water 1° C and a 5500 watt heater would require 3.961e+06 /5500 = 720 sec. to do this. Two 5500 watt heaters would require half that or 360 sec (6 minutes). Assuming mains water at 60 °F to go to 90 °F means a change of 30 °F or 16.667 °C. Total time for two 5500 W heaters would then be 16.6667*6 = 100 min.
 
Is there any way to get both terminals to heat instead of one heat and one cool. Or, Can I run 2 Heating elements off the 1 heat terminal?

Pretty sure you could put wires to both plugs from the heating side if all you wanted to do was heat. I'd be willing to bet you could also setup the STC as pictured and play with temperature settings so it controls the temps. The problem will be having only one temp probe.
 
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