Starting my eletric setup, questions

[Ares05]

First off let me say, I am just getting started with home brewing and I have found so much good information here my head is about to explode! I currently live in an apartment, I was told I am no long allowed to use my propane burner. My stove isn't able to boil enough for a 5g batch. I am looking into an electric setup. I was considering getting a kettle with a 5500w heating element. I am not confident in my ability to make a control box. If I got a Johnson control for a 240V, could that (for the time) replace the control box?

I am limited due to the apartment I am in. The dryer plugin is a 30A so I would be ok to run 1 element. I am still doing extract brews currently, I have done a couple AG with a friend and will eventually move to that down the road and after I get out of the apartment. Which I will be making an all electric build.

 

[mirthfuldragon]

I am looking into an electric setup. I was considering getting a kettle with a 5500w heating element. I am not confident in my ability to make a control box.

I spent a couple of hours reading through the following threads. It is complicated but not hard. A lot of it is understanding the acronyms and what each "thingy" does.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=577657

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=625327

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596834

In retrospect, when I started had I known what I know now, I would have gone with the Auber EZBoil for recirculating eBIAB on a flat-bottom 15g kettle with a 5500w element and called it a day.

Instead I have two propane burners, two keggles, a cooler mashtun, and a bunch of other stuff that works well but seems unnecessarily complicated.

 

[SirSpectre]

Look into something like a GrainFather. 120v electric boil. Works great and since its small, its great for apartment brewing. Then when you go AG down the line, just start using the rest of the equipment included!

Personally, I think it would be easier than building a boiler on 240v and all the required wiring.

 

[Baabaad00]

In retrospect, when I started had I known what I know now, I would have gone with the Auber EZBoil for recirculating eBIAB on a flat-bottom 15g kettle with a 5500w element and called it a day.

Now that is someone who does his research! I'm a newb getting started and have basic BIAB equipment I inherited. If things work out in my basic set up, maybe this'll be my more long term one! Good thinking!

 

[doug293cz]

First off let me say, I am just getting started with home brewing and I have found so much good information here my head is about to explode! I currently live in an apartment, I was told I am no long allowed to use my propane burner. My stove isn't able to boil enough for a 5g batch. I am looking into an electric setup. I was considering getting a kettle with a 5500w heating element. I am not confident in my ability to make a control box. If I got a Johnson control for a 240V, could that (for the time) replace the control box?

I am limited due to the apartment I am in. The dryer plugin is a 30A so I would be ok to run 1 element. I am still doing extract brews currently, I have done a couple AG with a friend and will eventually move to that down the road and after I get out of the apartment. Which I will be making an all electric build.

To control 5500W @ 240V, you need to switch 23A. AFAIK the Johnson Controls type controllers can't handle that much current. You really need something with a 40A SSR for switching.

The best choice is something with an Auber EZBoil (DSPR120, or higher model) controlling the SSR.

You also need to make sure the input power is GFCI protected, since you will be working with electricity around water. Most dryer outlets are not GFCI protected, so you will need to put a spa panel in line with your control box.

Brew on

 

[Ares05]

I have looked into the grainfather. While I do like the idea, I feel that with in the year when I move it will be wasted money. I will for sure dig deeper into it and see if I could maybe repurpose it. I have seen some nice 2 vessel RIMS that I liked. I am going to make a trip to a local brewery where I know the owner and get input from him. One good thing I have seen is they love to help and get their loyal customers involved, been there a couple times on brew day and brewed on smaller 3-teir AG. I think that's why I'm so set on sticking to a more traditional build as opposed to the graingather or other like systems.


Sorry for any typos, replying on my phone after few! I do thank you for your input! I'm really enjoying the community and all the great information here.

 

[doug293cz]

Here's about the simplest design that you can use to control an electric boil kettle, in a system without any pumps.



Brew on

 

[applescrap]

Look into something like a GrainFather. 120v electric boil. Works great and since its small, its great for apartment brewing. Then when you go AG down the line, just start using the rest of the equipment included!

Personally, I think it would be easier than building a boiler on 240v and all the required wiring.

As these come down in price they become very attractive. And if you get the 240v version, fast too. The 120v I assume is somewhat slow.

 

[applescrap]

To control 5500W @ 240V, you need to switch 23A. AFAIK the Johnson Controls type controllers can't handle that much current. You really need something with a 40A SSR for switching.

The best choice is something with an Auber EZBoil (DSPR120, or higher model) controlling the SSR.

You also need to make sure the input power is GFCI protected, since you will be working with electricity around water. Most dryer outlets are not GFCI protected, so you will need to put a spa panel in line with your control box.

Brew on

You are right. I know they cant, talked to a johnson engineer myself!

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Mash & Boil or Robobrew...cheap grainfatheresque brew rigs at 1/2 the price or less. Or a countertop induction cooktop. 240v won't require a separate controller and a cheap commercial version can be had for under $200. But you'll need an induction ready kettle. Price puts you in the Mash & Boil range but a decent kettle can transition to the next stage of brewing... decisions decisions!

 

[tofuguy]

Here's about the simplest design that you can use to control an electric boil kettle, in a system without any pumps.

View attachment 409114

Brew on

This is the design I went with for my setup. I only had a 3-wire input though, so no pump control.

 

[doug293cz]

This is the design I went with for my setup. I only had a 3-wire input though, so no pump control.

Correct, the neutral wire is not needed if you don't have any 120V requirements in the panel. However, if there is any possibility that you might want to expand the controller in the future, bringing in all four wires can save money in the long run, as you won't have to replace the input power cord (unless you go from a 30A to a 50A panel) or the input plugs/receptacles.

Brew on

 

[Ares05]

Mash & Boil or Robobrew...cheap grainfatheresque brew rigs at 1/2 the price or less. Or a countertop induction cooktop. 240v won't require a separate controller and a cheap commercial version can be had for under $200. But you'll need an induction ready kettle. Price puts you in the Mash & Boil range but a decent kettle can transition to the next stage of brewing... decisions decisions!

I have been considering the Induction cook tops, it would simplify my setup in the apartment for sure. I was considering getting a 240V 3500W induction to start with for my HL/BK and maybe a 120V 1800W for my MLT when I switch to AG. Do you think the 1800W would be able to hold mash temps? I would just be doing 5G batches.

 

[plazola86]

Have you looked into the a Brew Boss system? I switched to electric in January and could not be happier with it. I use mine as a single vessel BIAB but have seen others use the controller (brains of it) to run their traditional 3 vessel system.

 

[Ares05]

Have you looked into the a Brew Boss system? I switched to electric in January and could not be happier with it. I use mine as a single vessel BIAB but have seen others use the controller (brains of it) to run their traditional 3 vessel system.

I have looked at the systems, however being they cost close to 2,000 its a little out of my price range. I might ask around to see if I can hire somebody to build a control box for me.

 

[dyqik]

IME, the simplest option to boost a weak stove is a HotRod type element on a stick, powered off of a kitchen 15 or 20A 110V circuit. No need for a control box - just plug in the HotRod, and adjust the stove's power to control the boil.

Later you can either sell it as a unit, or use it to heat an HLT.