SSR Current Leakage?

[crazyirishman34]

On my panel included a 110v pilot light for the RIMS tube. It is 110v pilot light hooked up in parallel to the RIMS element. When the element isn't firing it is on but dim say 1/2 to 2/3rds as bright as when I switch on the RIMS tube. I am guessing that this is because of current leakage from the SSR. Is there any way that I can stop the LED from lighting when the element is off? I have 220v pilot lights on both the kettle and HLT elements and they switch on and off as expected.

 

[AngryMonk]

On my panel included a 110v pilot light for the RIMS tube. It is 110v pilot light hooked up in parallel to the RIMS element. When the element isn't firing it is on but dim say 1/2 to 2/3rds as bright as when I switch on the RIMS tube. I am guessing that this is because of current leakage from the SSR. Is there any way that I can stop the LED from lighting when the element is off? I have 220v pilot lights on both the kettle and HLT elements and they switch on and off as expected.

Try the same with the element actually plugged, the indicator should turn off.

 

[crazyirishman34]

What you are saying makes sense to me. If it doesn't stop when I fire the element should I put some resistors inline with the line side of the pilot light? Why wouldn't the 220v pilot lights do the same thing with out the elements plugged in?

 

[jeffmeh]

Just to confirm, your RIMS element is powered at 120v? If not, you need a 240v indicator wired in parallel.

 

[crazyirishman34]

Yep 120v 2000watt fold over element. I did wire everything so that if I need a 240v volt element I can just swap the neutral to a hot

 

[The10mmKid]

Would you have an opportunity to try an incandescent lamp instead of the the LED? Takes more than leakage current to illuminate them.

'da Kid

 

[crazyirishman34]

Would a CFL work? Kind of hard to come by an incandescent bulb at my house.

On other thing is I have a contactor to switch the 50amp line. The 110v circuit that I setup to activate the coil goes from the always hot side of the contactor threw a 5amp fuse to a switch then threw a LED pilot light the to the contactor. The neutral is hooked to the other pole of the contactor coil. When I turn on the switch just the pilot light comes on. If I remove the pilot light from the circuit the coil energizes. If I ran the pilot in parallel instead would it work correctly?

 

[The10mmKid]

All (read most) indicator lamps are in parallel across the load.

When I state incandescent Crazy, I'm talking about a small old school style indicator lamp.

Although like Angry stated, the low resistance of the element should 'shunt' any stray current through the SSR.

'da Kid

 

[MyNameIsPaul]

I had the same problem, light was dim when element wasn't hooked up, but went dark when element was plugged in. Lit like a charm when it was supposed to.

 

[crazyirishman34]

Cool so I will just have to wait and see what happens when I plug in the RIMS tube it sounds like.