SS Brewtech 1BBL Jacketed Unitank Clarity Issues

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TBC_Brewster

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So I've upgraded my entire system from 10 gal to 1bbl. I used to cold crash in carboys that would sit in my freezer for a week and come out perfect. With my new tanks, I am unable to do it in roughly/same amount of time. I have even transferred after fermenting (yes I know the irony) just to exhaust all theories of how to fix the issue and still nothing. I've done the same American wheat recipe each time so as to not introduce any potential new variables. So this last time, I decided to just let it sit and see exactly how long it would take to become clear. It ended up taking five months. Which is entirely too long obviously. Please leave no question unasked or idea not expressed. Maybe someone already has the answer or it will click in someone's head after reading a comment. I appreciate the help!
 

Beholder

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What temperature can you achieve in your conical? Would an option be to cold crash in conical for a couple weeks, package and put those kegs into the chest freezer?
 
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TBC_Brewster

TBC_Brewster

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What temperature can you achieve in your conical? Would an option be to cold crash in conical for a couple weeks, package and put those kegs into the chest freezer?
I have a glycol chiller and FTSs so I can get whatever temp I need. Chilled at 33 degrees when crashing. I'm trying to keep the process the same (essentially) as the old way.
 

Nate R

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Wulp, i thunk there's smarter folks here that can tell me i am wrong... but let me ask you this:
sit in my freezer for a week and come out perfect.
What temp would your beer get in the (assuming 5 gallon) carboy? Are yoy sure you are getting that temp in your 1bbl conical?

How would you transfer to the carboy? Did that process change from 10 gallon to 31 gallon? (I.e. whirlpool, dip tube, etc.) I am assuming your brewing/wort making equipment also changed?

How would you handle trub/ yeast in the carboy? Do you dump in the Conical now?

Finally.... wheat beer?? (My favorite style to brew as i can hide some flaws! Lol).
Maybe, for some reason, your old process yielded ultra clear wheat beer.
Have you considered making a SMaSH type ale? 100% 2-row, light hops, etc.? Maybe the new system can't clear your wheat beers, but maybe it kicks ass on others?

Hope you find your answer!
 

Golddiggie

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I don't brew wheat beers, but I've put several batches through the conical fermenters now. My pale ales are super clear when they leave the fermenter now.
My process:
Ferment fully, and give it a bit more time. This has turned out to be about two weeks for beers under about 6% ABV. I have an old ale at about 7.5% that looks like it will be the same time frame for this stage.
Chill to about 45F for at one to three days to get as much yeast to flocculate as possible, then drop the yeast (save/harvesting for another batch).
Chill down to carbonate temperatures. I've done both 35F and 38F with equal results.
Once carbonated, give it a few more days with the CO2 feed disconnected (from the carbonating stone) so that it has plenty of time to settle down.
Transfer portion to serving keg via closed transfer and then can the balance.
Keg goes right into keezer and is put on tap if there's a spot for it. If I have a batch of the recipe still on tap, then it goes onto the gas feed that is for the style/type and waits for the previous keg to kick. I'm putting my stouts and porters on nitro/CO2 mix these days, where the rest are typically on just CO2. Not sure what I'll put the old ale on just yet.

I would also recommend doing a SMaSH, or simple pale ale recipe, to see if it's your hardware or something with your ingredients that's the source. Also are you using any finings in the boil, like Irish moss or whirlflock tablets? Are you dropping the yeast before carbonating and such?

For the record, I was getting very clear beers when using kegmenters either with, or without, a fermentation chamber. Before getting the conical fermenters (Spike CF10 model) I would carbonate in serving keg. Now I'm able to carbonate in fermenter and can't see ever NOT doing that. Being able to move fully carbonated (and chilled) beer from fermenter into serving keg, or fill cans (or bottles if I decide to on a batch/recipe) is so much easier on me. It also means that as soon as the keg goes into the keezer it can be put on tap and glasses poured.
 

Beholder

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I have a glycol chiller and FTSs so I can get whatever temp I need. Chilled at 33 degrees when crashing. I'm trying to keep the process the same (essentially) as the old way.
Ah, ok, that helps clarify. I believe the issue is not in your chilling side then (assuming you had temp control and same set point on your chest freezer), but is instead on your hot side.

On bigger systems, temperature ramps up and down are likely slower than your smaller system. If you can compare the rates, this would help narrow down where the process needs to be adjusted, but you may not get a good hot break with a slow boil rate, or more likely your cold crash is slower, leading to less effective cold break.

I have a half barrel system and typically use Irish moss in the last 10 minutes of the boil for improving the cold break. If using a poor floc yeast, or want an especially bright beer, I also sometimes use gelatin finings.
 
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TBC_Brewster

TBC_Brewster

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If it helps, my system is a Blichmann Electric Herms Pilot System. And I also used whirlfloc tabs (old way) but now use KICK carrageenan micro-t tabs. I would set my freezer to 34 degrees when the two carboys would be in there. My unitank can reach the same temp easily. But with the temp probe in the middle of the tank, I think the wort closest to the sides gets too warm by the time the probe reaches the high limit to then turn the pump on. Which I think the picture supports that theory. Can't remember how far into cold crashing that that picture was taken.
 

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