Spunding Valve for Sanke Connection - How to connect?

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lorne17

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Hello there,

I have a full size keg and I wanted to try and use it for fermenting. I have the FastFerment, and my last batch was mediocre because I had to dry hop several times. Due to that I oxidized it and it didn't come out the way it should have. So with that said, I found this: http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2011/02/build-spunding-valve.html

However, this is for a ball lock keg. I'm not too familiar with Sanke keg connections yet. What parts do I need to get this to work on my Sanke keg?

Thanks,
Lorne
 
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lorne17

lorne17

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Anyone have any ideas? I'd really like to brew my next batch soon and want to do it in a keg. Thoughts?
 

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Bobby_M

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If you use a SANKE coupler to make entry to the keg, you'll want to cap the liquid out port. You can do that by putting a nickel between the gasket and the beer nut. On the gas side you'll need to remove the duck bill check valve in the coupling. Then you'll put a neoprene beer washer, then a 1/4" MFL tailpiece and beer nut on. From there the spunding assembly will thread on as long as it's equipped with a FFL x 1/4" NPT adapter.

Alternatively you can equip your spunding TEE with just a hose barb and run a hose between the gas input tailpiece and the spunding. You still have to remove the duck bill because it's designed not to let gas out of the keg.
 

mirage887

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Another option i didn't see yet is to take a sanke coupler and then add this kit. https://www.cornykeg.com/product/sanke-keg-to-corny-keg-conversion-kit/. Basically just adds ball lock posts to the sanke connections. This would allow you to use the spunding valve design you linked and the liquid out remains sealed unless you put a liquid out ball lock on it. You would still need to remove the check valves as others have mentioned.
 
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lorne17

lorne17

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Another option i didn't see yet is to take a sanke coupler and then add this kit. https://www.cornykeg.com/product/sanke-keg-to-corny-keg-conversion-kit/. Basically just adds ball lock posts to the sanke connections. This would allow you to use the spunding valve design you linked and the liquid out remains sealed unless you put a liquid out ball lock on it. You would still need to remove the check valves as others have mentioned.
Thanks for all the replies it’s super helpful!
This would be my cheapest option so far. Would I be able to transfer to my corny kegs using this?
 

mirage887

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Thanks for all the replies it’s super helpful!
This would be my cheapest option so far. Would I be able to transfer to my corny kegs using this?
Yes for sure. Just take off the spunding valve and replace with gas in. Put the spunding valve on the corny keg (especially if it is carbonated) and then hook up a liguid to liquid line and you are good to go. Also you will likely want to run off a pint or so till the output is clear before hooking it to your carb/serving keg because the sanke spear will suck all the yeast and sediment from the fermenting keg.
 
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lorne17

lorne17

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Yes for sure. Just take off the spunding valve and replace with gas in. Put the spunding valve on the corny keg (especially if it is carbonated) and then hook up a liguid to liquid line and you are good to go. Also you will likely want to run off a pint or so till the output is clear before hooking it to your carb/serving keg because the sanke spear will suck all the yeast and sediment from the fermenting keg.
Thanks for the reply. My next question was do I leave the spear in the keg? But you already answered that. Do you know if sediment and trub will clog it?

Thanks,
Lorne
 

mirage887

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Thanks for the reply. My next question was do I leave the spear in the keg? But you already answered that. Do you know if sediment and trub will clog it?

Thanks,
Lorne
I don't think you will have a problem with the spear clogging. I have never had an issue
 
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lorne17

lorne17

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I don't think you will have a problem with the spear clogging. I have never had an issue
Have you ever used a 1/4 barrel slim keg? Is that enough space to not use a blow off?

Is there any point in fermentation you use a blowoff then switch to spunding? Or do you use spunding valve from the start?

Thanks for answering all my questions!
 

mirage887

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Have you ever used a 1/4 barrel slim keg? Is that enough space to not use a blow off?

Is there any point in fermentation you use a blowoff then switch to spunding? Or do you use spunding valve from the start?

Thanks for answering all my questions!
As most say you will never regret using a blow off. I normally use fermcap so typically just have an airlock. I have not used a 1/4 barrel sanke but I imagine it would work well with the couple of extra gallons of headspace. I don't use it all that often for fermenting but check for a calculator to tell you what gravity to switch from airlock/blowoff to spunding valve to get the right volume of co2 from the yeast.
 
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lorne17

lorne17

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As most say you will never regret using a blow off. I normally use fermcap so typically just have an airlock. I have not used a 1/4 barrel sanke but I imagine it would work well with the couple of extra gallons of headspace. I don't use it all that often for fermenting but check for a calculator to tell you what gravity to switch from airlock/blowoff to spunding valve to get the right volume of co2 from the yeast.
Do you happen to have a link for this calculator? I was planning on just using the spunding valve. But now I am thinking otherwise thanks to your help!

Thanks,
Lorne
 

SanPancho

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There are carbonation charts all over the web. You need to decide on your volume of co2 for serving the beer.

Then take that volume and find the corresponding pressure at your fermenting temperature. That’s the psi you set your spunding valve at for full carb.

Some folks don’t like going over 15psi so they stop there. Beer is usually only partially carbed. In that case you crash to serving temp and put it on gas at the appropriate pressure to reach desired final volume.

Also, the general rule of thumb is to spund with 1P or about 4 gravity points remaining.
 
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