Spike steam lid used on 65L Brewzilla?

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Iowayankees

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I hear that this lid can be used on the 65L Brewzilla- I currently use a 220v Brewzilla but place it outside due to the boil and condensation. Curious if these work and can brew wit it inside without an exhaust hood. Anyone using the 65L Brewzilla with the Spike steam lid with success indoors?
 

WannaB1

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I swear I seen this somewhere but now I can’t find it. Would you mind measuring the lid that came with the brewzilla?
 

WannaB1

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I found this on the brewzilla 65l user group on FB.

"I just used the Spike lid on a brew this week. The 15 gal lid does not fit perfectly on the Brewzilla 65l. It only seats about 1/2 way. I communicated this to Spike and they had me run some tests with water to see if it would work anyway. Even only 1/2 seated, it worked well. THEN, I remembered the clips supplied for the distillation lid on the Brewzilla and fastened those on the lid and the fit is very good. It consumes about 15 gal/hr of cold water and does a great job of keeping things steam free."
 

DuncB

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My GUten ( 70l very similar to Brewzilla) has a metal lid and so I could just fit the condenser on the top, works great. Made my own condenser as spike and brewtools condenser not available here in NZ.
Recommend that you make an extra hole in the lid for peering in and for additions.
I can brew indoors no problem at all with this setup. It's quiet, uses less electricity and less boil off so less liquid to start with.
Do you want a picture?
 

WannaB1

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My GUten ( 70l very similar to Brewzilla) has a metal lid and so I could just fit the condenser on the top, works great. Made my own condenser as spike and brewtools condenser not available here in NZ.
Recommend that you make an extra hole in the lid for peering in and for additions.
I can brew indoors no problem at all with this setup. It's quiet, uses less electricity and less boil off so less liquid to start with.
Do you want a picture?
I would be very interested to see it.
 

stealthfixr

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Just bought a BZ 65L and would really like to see Spike steam lid integration, if anyone has pictures or details.
 

DuncB

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Okay
Have just popped down stairs and taken some photos.

Firstly Guten comes with metal lid and I cut a hole in it. This is important for A) peeking in to get the boil right
B) for any additions

You could cut this and get it the size for a 3 inch or 4 inch triclover ferrule. I didn't bother as this would have required a stainless steel weld and a few more parts. I had it cut so that the lid of kilner jar could rest on it. These come in various sizes, I just folded the rubber gasket on it down and it fits really well. Can get a bit hot and needs to be taken off to look in as it steams up ( as the proprietary spike one would I expect) and you need to shine a torch in to get a really good view.

All the parts I got off the shelf from a supplier to the dairy industry.

Next is a ferrule to BSP adapter the hole in the centre of the lid is 50 mm and the bore of the adapter is 40mm. This is loosely screwed on so that it can tilt with the weight of the further tubing and help the condensed water run away with the spray water.

There are a few combinations for assembly I use the elbow with the copper pipe inflow and then the other connectors. This suits me as with the Guten on a small box the water runs straight into my sink.
I had enough parts ( some from one I made for a 35l Robobrew) to show some other combos that are possible.

The spray nozzle I took from a garden sprayer and then soldered onto the copper pipe, it's important that the spray is far enough down the tube that no back flow can occur and the droopy angle of the condenser ( due to the loose ferrule fitting ) seen in the photos helps to prevent this. I have tried to show the loose fitting of the BSP ferrule adapter in the last photo from below

I have ordered some proper spray nozzles on Aliexpress not sure what size I need but the garden spray nozzle I adjusted to a nice open spray and soldered it in that position. The flow is varied with the water pressure input which is from my water tap. I aim for about 400ml a minute seems to work well.

When boiling I turn the heat down from between 600 watts and a 1000 depending on the volume in the Guten. I have an insulator jacket on the Guten and also put a towel on the lid and around the vertical and pipework up to the spray nozzle. This reduces the steam condensing before being chilled. Allegedly the venturi effect of the water spray and the change in volume of the steam causes a pressure lowering hence drawing the steam into the " chimmney " and away. Not so sure that the pressure is lowered that much but it works and thats what matters.

You certainly get a lot less boil off as well. If I have 35 litres in the Guten pre boil after an hours boil and hop additions + trub trapping I get just over 30 litres in the ferment vessel.

See other post about my trub trapper and break catcher.

I have not had any problems with DMS, you certainly can smell it in the air as it comes out with the water.

Please DO NOT pick up the lid using the condenser as a handle it is burning hot.

If using a hop spider ( I don't ) it can fit in under the lid hanging on the" ring "that the malt pipe rests on as you lift it to drain and sparge.

Don't forget to put in your trub trap / coil ( if you use ) etc before you pop this on at the beginning of the boil, saves an unclipping at 15 minutes.

The guten does have lid clips built in which I use to help the seal and to stop the lid toppling off. That stainless steel is quite heavy and creates quite a moment.

I do plan to get a better connector for the copper pipe to the water supply once the new jets arrive.

Haven't sent a picture of it in action as you've seen water trickling out of a pipe before.

Hope this helps.

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