Spike Conical- observations and best practices

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Jesse Runowski

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- sanitize, reattach, open site glass valve. After some time, will I have to dump another site glass full of yeast?
Since you have a 2" valve after the site glass, I would dump yeast with the site glass attached. As long as you are pushing CO2 through the top gas manifold you should have positive pressure reducing/eliminating O2 intake. If you take the site glass off you'll want to make sure to purge it thoroughly with Co2 before opening the value between it and your tank bottom. If you don't, all of the O2 will go straight into your brew.

I had to get leg extensions to make enough room for the site glass, value and connector that is hooked to 3" tubing to dump yeast / hops. Still a super tight fit.
 

Wagon_6

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Do you use a hose to drain the trub/yeast/hops? Any trouble with the dry hops clogging standard 1/2” silicone tubing?

I got the gas QD x 2” TC so it’s pretty easy to purge the empty space with CO2 while reattaching. I’ve done 2 trub dumps by taking off the site glass, it’s an art form. If the tubing doesn’t clog, that way appears to be simpler.
 

kingmatt

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Do you use a hose to drain the trub/yeast/hops? Any trouble with the dry hops clogging standard 1/2” silicone tubing?

I got the gas QD x 2” TC so it’s pretty easy to purge the empty space with CO2 while reattaching. I’ve done 2 trub dumps by taking off the site glass, it’s an art form. If the tubing doesn’t clog, that way appears to be simpler.
I use a 3 inch piece of silicon tubing when I do my yeast and hop dumps and I haven't had a problem so far (and i brew with a LOT of hops). I keep positive pressure on the conical at about 5 psi and VERY slowly open by botton valve until I get things flowing. Be ready to shut the valve at a moments notice if things start flowing too fast.

I usually end up doing 2-3 smaller dumps for both yeast and hops over a day or 2 to allow things that go stirred up to settle back down. I've found this is effective in getting everything out without losing too much beer.
 
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+1 to what @kingmatt said, with 5psi open the valve a very small amount and wait for it to do its thing, otherwise the liquid will just punch a hole through the trub/yeast rather then pushing it out. I use a length of 1/2 silicone and have not had an issue doing it this way. I dump some trub before I soft crash and again after a good 36 to 48 hour soft crash. Then I dry hop. I find it easier to dump yeast if I get some trub out before the soft crash.
 

Pacific Electric

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Yeah, I'm one of them. I haven't had time to update here until now. I did hear back after 3 weeks, and like you I was getting frustrated. What I was told was this was a supplier/material issue with the gasket, which is somehow causing poor gasket fitment and thus leaks. They offered me a temporary replacement, which sounds like you may have received, while they are waiting on properly spec'd lid gaskets (1-2 month lead time).

The temp lid has the gasket permanently siliconed in place, and they claim it's able to achieve the 15PSI seal. I opted not to have them ship me a temp lid and gasket (waste of resources for the couple of beers I could ferment in 1-2 months). Instead I will have to carb the slow way in my kegs. Not the ideal experience when buying a shiny new toy, but I now better understand why it was taking them some time to get to an answer.

Looking forward to my first conical fermentation this weekend!
New replacement gaskets are in. Got mine in the mail today. They no longer have a flat side and a pointed side but now both sides have the same point. Will pressure test it tomorrow but went in just as easy as the old style. Tried my best to get a photo - new on left old on right.
 

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Gozie Boy

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Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]
 

kingmatt

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Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]
I open an close my valve repeatedly and that is usally enough to get them to drop. If not, I have a rubber mallet handy and tap the reducer (not too hard!) repeatedly while opening and closing the valve and then has always worked to get them all to drop.
 

TLaffey

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Question about the dry hop dump set up and operation. I developed a very similar hop dump rig as shown in the last 3-4 pages (all 1-1/2 inch hardware). I did some "dry run" tests with hops prior to an actual brew, and found that I could not get the hops to drop. I tapped, pounded, worked the valve, etc., and they just sat in the site glass. I have been thinking about going to a 2" site glass with a reducer attaching to the 1-1/2" lid fitting, but before going to that expense (given the uncertainty of whether that would even work), I thought I would ask you who are successfully dropping with 1-1/2" rigs what your experience and secret of success has been in doing so. Thx.

[I have NOT read ALL 77 pages of posts, so apologies if this has been covered previously.]
I never had success with a 1.5" valve, so went to 2" as you are thinking. I posted a photo in #2661 (Spike Conical- observations and best practices) I still occasionally need to use a rubber mallet on the valve to get pellets dropping.
 

YeastFeast

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I use a ball valve (all 1.5”) and no problems at all. I set the dryhopper 1psi higher than the tank is set at and it always works fine.
See video…

 
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Whalewang

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Anyone using their cooling coil setup to keep the fermenter temp warm in cooler months? E.g. An immersion water heater in a small cooler.
 

Tbelanger

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I don't see this prv having an issue with clogging, personally I have the 3 port lid and I fill my cf15 pretty high and get blow off a lot of the time. So that's why I use the the blow off tube. I also have my prv on a riser to keep any foam from climbing into it. View attachment 778619
I might go with this setup with the valve/blowoff. I noticed that even if you drain the sanitizer cup there is still some on top of the plunger that goes into the fermenter along with whatever else. This way you can use the blowoff to dump the pressure instead
 
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