Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

[DeGarre]

I am not that good at calculating efficiency but I reckon I had a good one today:

20L BM: 25L into the meister => water level is 1cm below the center rod top mark. 4.5kg of grain (pale ale, crystal, black). Sparged with 6 litres, and collected about 1 litre of wort from the bucket where the malt pipe was resting - added it to the boil.

My BeerSmith2 set up is for 20L of finished wort, end of the boil I had 23L going into the FV + 1.5L into the freezer for Speisen.

24.5L in total and my target was 1049 OG as per beersmith (20 litre finished wort) and I hit 1047.

So I missed OG by 2 points and gained 4.5L into the FV - will prolly bottle 23.5L------

You do the math! Gotta love Speidel BM!:rockin:

 

[diegobonatto]

Hello people,

I am interested in to perform a decoction step with my BM 50L. Somebody have tried it? What is the best way to do it? Single step mash + decoction or multistep mash + decoction?

 

[beradthefish]

Berad,
what is the size of the thread on the BM output - it is metric right ? 25mm or something ?

.75" FPT. When I get home I'll post some options for fittings. Another gentleman on this forum and myself have found some good but not so easy to find parts.

 

[bach]

This is my schedule for lagers: It is Step infusion combined with double decoction
1.mash in 55C 15 min
2.63C 40 min
take about 30% thick mash out, close the malt pipe and let the 63C step continue
heat the decoction to 69C over 10 mins, keep at 69C 10 min, then heat
to 100C and boil till 20min
pause the BM
open malt pipe
return decoction there
mix
remove again about 30%
close malt pipe,
3. step to 69C for 25min
heat the decoction to 69C and keep there for 10 min
then heat to 100C and boil till the end of 69C step
pause BM
open malt pipe
return the decoction there and mix
close malt pipe
heat to 76C mashout and keep there for 15 mins
lift the malt pipe drain +/- sparge

 

[diegobonatto]

Nice schedule! I will adapt it for my system...

 

[beefeater]

Hello people,

I am interested in to perform a decoction step with my BM 50L. Somebody have tried it? What is the best way to do it? Single step mash + decoction or multistep mash + decoction?

I used the schedule described here.
It produced a beautiful malty wort that I have high hopes for!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/lager-recipe-spiedel-braumeister-50l-298356/#post3712561

 

[diegobonatto]

Thanks beefeater! Very interesting procedure and also simple. I am pretending to make a Munich Dunkel.

 

[Soviet]

I can't believe I've read nearly every page in this thread. Folks I've made my decision. The money is in. I'm ordering the Braumeister 50L unit. Excited as hell.

 

[Munch671]

I know morebeer sells these but now I can't find the affiliate site that sold them and not going back through the 120+ pages to find the guy who sells them for the site lol. Also found this site now has them,

http://www.homebrewing.com/speidel.php

Question for the owners. Before you purchased one were most of you doing all grain on 5 gallon size or 10? I'm asking because I am all extract right now, still saving the pennies to purchase one of these, but I do a lot of bigger beers (full boil) and am wondering if the 50L is worth it or is the 20L fine for someone who has always done 5 gallons and has no interest in doing larger batches.
The only reason I would get the 50L is for the larger beers. If I remember right in the earlier post one of the issues was doing big beers and that even small ones you still have to top off at the end, does this still hold true?

Thanks!

 

[Getafix]

am wondering if the 50L is worth it or is the 20L fine for someone who has always done 5 gallons and has no interest in doing larger batches.

The only reason I would get the 50L is for the larger beers. If I remember right in the earlier post one of the issues was doing big beers and that even small ones you still have to top off at the end, does this still hold true?

Thanks!

If you will only ever be brewing 5gl batchs then the 20L is appropriate.
The 50L has the same gravity restrictions as the 20L.
Those brewers looking to produce higher gravity beers are either performing a reiterated mash, are using DME/LME to reach their desired OG, or just make a smaller batch volume.
Topping off is only necessary if you messed up your numbers.

 

[beefeater]

I agree with Getafix; If you're only gonna brew 5g batches, go with the 20L.

-It has a smaller footprint and is easier to handle (anyone can lift the malt pipe with one hand)
-It is less expensive
-It needs less power. I haven't got around to fully understand US electrics and what kinds of outlets people usually have in their homes but here in Norway the 20L can run off a very common 10A outlet while the 50L will need a 16A which is usually only installed where needed.
-It can brew quite big beers and with some DME as big as you want.
I'm sipping an IPA right now that was 1.072 without doing any double mashing or adding DME

 

[Getafix]

The last 2 beers I made with the Braumeister were an Old Bavarian Weissbier and another version of a Kelheim Weissbier. Both beers have been in the bottle for over a month. I use Speise collected post chilling to carbonate most of the beers I make or a Speise/Sugar combo for non-German style beers.

Currently I am less concerned with beer color and haze, and am happy to be making high quality, delicious beer. The OBW really suprised me, initially it was a bit more malty than I like, but has balanced out nicely. The Kelheim is almost my ideal Hefe, it has a good balance between clove, banana, light malt and is highly carbonated. Both still need some tweaking though.

I am still using my Victoria (Corona) mill but am looking to get a Barley Crusher soon. The Victoria was good enough for my batch sparging days, where a fine crush with quite a bit of flour worked. I have to double or triple crush with it if I want it coarse, and the Braumeister works best with a coarse crush.

I noticed a bit of channeling on my last Kelheim Weissbier brew near the end of conversion, so paused the program and stirred the mash. I usually use rice hulls (didn't this time) but would prefer not to unless really necessary.

With simpler mash schedules and minimal data logging my brewdays are down to 6 hours, but the weather here in Toronto has been so nice I haven't been able to brew as much as I like. I am selfishly hoping for a couple of nasty snowfalls so that I can replenish the pipeline.

 

[bach]

.75" FPT. When I get home I'll post some options for fittings. Another gentleman on this forum and myself have found some good but not so easy to find parts.

Hi again,

I have tried 0.75", but it does not fit. It is not NPT/FPT.
The thread is finer than US threading. Also, there is no pipe taper.
I am a little lost - the OD is either exactly 1" or 26mm, the thread is slighly less than 2mm - this is not making sense, because the metric 2mm threading is usually on M27, on smaller ones the thread is 1.5mm

I emailed Ralph, he is usually very helpful.

 

[jimswms]

Considering one of these to replace my old Sabco Brew Magic. The Brew Magic has served me well, and there's really no reason to replace it other than to simplify. I'm building a new home, and switching to electric would be a cool option for me. Forgive me for not reading through this entire thread. I did skim it. Some of these questions may have been addressed already!

A few questions:
-I mostly make 12 gal. batches to end up with 10.8 to fill a firkin or two pins. I'm worried about the size. I can barely get the volume I'm looking for with my 15gal. converted kegs. Yeah, I can use some tricks to get where I need to be, but will I be disappointed?

-The most interesting part of brewing for me is fermentation and conditioning. AG brewing is just a way to get to that end goal, so efficiency and easy clean up are important for me. This seems like an upgrade to me? True? Simplifying my process is a plus for me. This seems like a step in the right direction?

-It seems like there are several places to purchase a Brewmeister. Where is the best for price and service?

-Has this proven to be a reliable system? I remember when it first came out, and it's been on the radar. How has it held up for those that have owned one for awhile.

-Does anyone use the Jamil whirlpool cooling method? I've been doing it for several years, and am a believer. How's it work in this system? How are most of you chilling?

Thanks!

 

[Munch671]

I agree with Getafix; If you're only gonna brew 5g batches, go with the 20L.

-It has a smaller footprint and is easier to handle (anyone can lift the malt pipe with one hand)
-It is less expensive
-It needs less power. I haven't got around to fully understand US electrics and what kinds of outlets people usually have in their homes but here in Norway the 20L can run off a very common 10A outlet while the 50L will need a 16A which is usually only installed where needed.
-It can brew quite big beers and with some DME as big as you want.
I'm sipping an IPA right now that was 1.072 without doing any double mashing or adding DME

Awesome feedback guys, thank you so much. You have helped me make the decision of going with the 20L system, and judging by the amount of positive post on here, I don't think I will have any issues.
Now to sell my damn ATV so I have the money to purchase one of these and become one of the elite braumeister club members.

Thanks again!
-Jay

 

[beradthefish]

Hi again,

I have tried 0.75", but it does not fit. It is not NPT/FPT.
The thread is finer than US threading. Also, there is no pipe taper.
I am a little lost - the OD is either exactly 1" or 26mm, the thread is slighly less than 2mm - this is not making sense, because the metric 2mm threading is usually on M27, on smaller ones the thread is 1.5mm

I emailed Ralph, he is usually very helpful.

Maybe you have a different fitting on yours.

These have worked for myself and other forum members:

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...N-8&item=e254464f-20f7-457f-a9a9-c8602af7276e

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLXG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The amazon one would require a 1/2" nipple to connect to a female ball valve.

 

[bach]

Thanks for Swagelok website.

Ralph from Speidel BM emailed me that the Tap for 20L unit has G 3/4" cylindrical(=non tapered) thread.
G 3/4" is also called BSP(british standard pipe) and on couple of websites,
I found that BSP is uquivalent to ISO.

The 20L unit has cylindrical - ie parallel/non tapered 3/4" thread.
So it looks like I need to pick BSPP(parallel) or ISO RS(nontapered) for the BM side.

 

[beefeater]

Did I mention that this thing is consistent?

In december I brewed an APA that turned out to be very good so yesterday I brewed the same beer again. Same recipe, volumes, mash schedule and all that.
And the efficiency and final volumes were..... Exactly the same!

Here's the recipe. SNPA clone hop schedule but with pils, munich and just a little bit of crystal.

---------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------
Type: All Grain
Date: 14.02.2012
Batch Size: 22,00 L
Boil Size: 29,06 L
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Speidel - 20l
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80,00

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3,40 kg Bohemian Pilsner (Weyermann) (1,7 SRM) Grain 73,91 %
1,00 kg Munich I (Weyermann) (7,1 SRM) Grain 21,74 %
0,20 kg Crystal Malt (Muntons) (76,1 SRM) Grain 4,35 %
15,00 gm Magnum [13,00 %] (60 min) Hops 21,6 IBU
25,00 gm Perle [5,90 %] (20 min) Hops 9,9 IBU
40,00 gm Cascade [5,40 %] (7 min) Hops 6,4 IBU
40,00 gm Cascade [5,40 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1,00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15,0 min) Misc
1,00 gm White Labs Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10,0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs American Ale (Fermentis #US-05) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1,053 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1,050 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1,010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5,54 %
Bitterness: 37,9 IBU Calories: 468 cal/l
Est Color: 7,6 SRM Color: Color


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Speidel - Tysk 1 Total Grain Weight: 4,60 kg
Sparge Water: 8,67 L Grain Temperature: 22,2 C
Sparge Temperature: 78,0 C TunTemperature: -17,8 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE Mash PH: 5,4 PH

Speidel - Tysk 1 Step Time Name Description Step Temp
0 min Innmesk Add 25,00 L of water at 62,6 C 60,0 C
45 min Forsukring Heat to 64,0 C over 4 min 64,0 C
20 min Forsukring Heat to 72,0 C over 8 min 72,0 C
20 min Utmesk Heat to 78,0 C over 6 min 78,0 C

 

[bronzdragon]

First, I'd like to say that the full read took me a few days but was very informative. I'm strongly weighing the odds of going with a BM over a Sabco Brew-Magic, for several reasons. I was hoping that by this time, they would have a U.S. powered version.

Also, I'm working with a brewing space that is roughly 9'8" by 5'6" and 7' tall. I would like to get the 50L version but am concerned with being able to lift properly without breaking my already not-so-great back. Has anyone explored a hydraulic way to lift the basket, just an idea my wife was going over.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all of the input and I'd like to get a feeling with the durability, meaning ... from owners, how long do you figure that this system will last for you. If I put this money in, I'd like to think I could get 10 years out of it, considering the problems that have been addressed with good customer service. I don't think that's too much to ask for $3,000.

Input?

Russ

 

[rico567]

First, I'd like to say that the full read took me a few days but was very informative. I'm strongly weighing the odds of going with a BM over a Sabco Brew-Magic, for several reasons. I was hoping that by this time, they would have a U.S. powered version.

<snip>

When you say "-a U.S. powered version." I assume you're just talking about plugs. The Braumeister will work just the same on the 240VAC here as it does on a standard circuit in Europe. Easy as pie to replace the plug, although since I would have to install a new receptacle anyhow to brew in my space of choice, I'd just go that route (buying a receptacle that accommodates the plug that comes on the BM- they can be purchased here).

 

[bronzdragon]

Yes, that's more of what I meant. Basically, I was hoping that by this point in time, Spiedel would offer a U.S. plug model, so that after I spend $3,000 the first thing I wouldn't have to do out of the box, is cut off the plug.

And as far as just getting the other type of recepticle installed, yes I had considered that option as well.

Russ

 

[bronzdragon]

Question pointed at Yambor, did you ever get your 20L and if so, what are your feelings on downsizing from the 50L to the 20L?

My gut says to go with the 50L, even though I usually brew 5 gal. batches, because it gives me the availability of making high gravity beers, which I do quite often.

Am I looking at this wrong?

Russ

 

[Alchemy]

Just ordered my 20L braumeister! Cant wait for it to get here. Ordered from morebeer, how long does it normally take for it to come in?

 

[Redstag]

Doesn't the 20L only have one pump? The 50L has two pumps and may have a stronger heating element as well. The reason I believe the 50L has a stronger heating element is because there has been a post about the need for stronger circuit barker for the 50L, as well as the need to heat a larger volume of liquid. Would a 20L user please confirm my suspicions?

 

[DeGarre]

... Has anyone explored a hydraulic way to lift the basket...

The Aussie fella posted some nice pictures, some kind of a pulley winch if I remember correctly.

 

[bronzdragon]

The Aussie fella posted some nice pictures, some kind of a pulley winch if I remember correctly.

I remember that one, and it is what got me thinking. I don't really have the room for a winch setup, but hydraulics would work similarly in a smaller area. Just thinking out loud here.

I would like to hear from one of the original buyers from last year, on their opinions after having the systems for almost a year.
~r~

 

[Brew_Matt]

My gut says to go with the 50L, even though I usually brew 5 gal. batches, because it gives me the availability of making high gravity beers, which I do quite often.

Russ

Not an expert, but agree with your reasoning with relation to high gravity beers.

 

[Brew_Matt]

The 50L has two pumps and may have a stronger heating element as well. The reason I believe the 50L has a stronger heating element is because there has been a post about the need for stronger circuit barker for the 50L, as well as the need to heat a larger volume of liquid. Would a 20L user please confirm my suspicions?

The 50L does have a stronger heating element - it is actually 2 of the 20L elements. If not, I dont think it would have the ability to boil, as the 20L I have seen only had a gentle boil.

 

[Getafix]

Just ordered my 20L braumeister!

Congrats, Happy brewing.
-

@ Redstag

The 50L heating element is longer than the 20L's.

 

[DeGarre]

20L unit can be used for high gravity brewing just as same as 50L, just the scaling is different. Exactly the same procedure: mash 2 times.