Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Sudz

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Thanks Makomachine!

I can now follow the thread with a reasonable level of understanding about this brew process. The more I read, the more I'm favorably impressed!

Cheers...
 

makomachine

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Thanks Makomachine!

I can now follow the thread with a reasonable level of understanding about this brew process. The more I read, the more I'm favorably impressed!

Cheers...
No worries. It's about as easy as you could make all grain with a high degree of control in your mash temps, IMO. Haven't got enough time with it yet to give a final opinion on it, but I'd buy it again in a heartbeat given my brewing sessions to date.
 

Kimosabe

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I understand 3 gallons wouldn't work. I also understand that the traditional ratios are not necessary applicable the BM brewing. I haven't made any but there are light brews out there with 8 lb grain bills.

My question stems aroung the BM system. Simply put, how much water does it (20L) require for circulation? Can someone with a 20L tell me?
What you have to realise is that reducing the amount of water will put extra strain on the the pump. When the pump starts, the water level inside the malt pipe will rise. Outside the maltpipe the water level will fall. A difference in pressure will build up directly proportional to the difference in height of the two fluid levels. To maintain the wort circulation the pump has to overcome both the resistance of the grain bed and the pressure difference as a result of the difference in fluid levels inside and outside the maltpipe. Therefore reducing the amount of water will slow down the circulation. I recently experienced adding more than the advised 23 liters helped me to improve circulation when i'm using a high grain bill. I suspect reducing the amount of water will decrease the efficiency and therefore will result in a lower instead of a a higher end gravity.

Thijs
 

Sudz

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How's your build coming along? Aren't you trying to build a similar unit?
Very good... Yes I am ...sorta.

I was actually building a system to emulate BIAB* (brew in a "bucket") when I first became aware of the BM. It's rather uncanny how similar my "FrankenMeister" is to the BM.

Basically I've got a 15 gal boil pot which will be the basis for the system. I have an older 8 gal pot which will serve the function of the grain pipe. It retains it's bottom and sets about 1 1/2 off the floor of the boil pot.

I have made two sieve plates. One fits tightly in the bottom of the 8 gal pot (mash pot) about 2 " from the pot's bottom. The other sieve plate fits about 2" below the rim of this mash pot.

Circulation leverages a March pump. I pull water from the boil pot via the existing drain valve. This gets pumped to a 1/2 copper manifold which is actually mounted to the outside of the mash pot. The delivery enters the mash pot below the lower sieve plate. Flow at this point is the same as a BM. The overflow from the mash pot drops back into the boil pot and is continuously recirculated.

One difference I have is the solid bottom mash pot. To drain the mash pot when raised, I have incorporated a small 3/8" hole in the bottom of the pot. This should restrict the flow to promote grain bed optimal settling similar to standard vorlauf/fly sparging practices. This hole is sealed by a simple flap valve when the pot is setting on the bottom of the boil pot. This valve opens as the pot is lifted for draining.

Heat is provided by a gas fired system. This system uses a large banjo burner which has been the basis of my boil pot during prior use. I have modified the gas delivery to permit temp control via a PID controller and valve. This system now includes a pilot light to facilitate the on/off of the main gas flow. My initial thermocouple is mounted to sense the output flow temp immediately after the pump.

I may eventually convert to electrical heating if this thing proves useful. I'm basically utilizing my existing system by adding some features to things I already have. I had no idea where this was going until a came across the BM. That was exciting for me since it appears to justify my game plan.

This thread has been an excellent source of info and everyone's participation greatly appreciated.

Construction is almost complete. I'll probably start playing with the circulation and heat control this weekend. I'm probably a couple of weeks from brewing pending start up surprises... there are always some.

The reason I was questioning the capacities of the BM was to get some understanding of the volumes internal to the BM 20L system. In looking at my system I will have significantly more volume capability than what I perceive the 20L BM has. This does make for a tricky design decision regarding the max capacity of my mash pot. I will most likely be cutting a couple of large overflow ports in the side of the pot to limit this capacity. This will be necessary because the system may hold too much water for a 5-6gal grain bill if not limited. I'll have to play with the mash pot volume to determine what's best for this system.

That's it for the moment... Cheers...
 

DeGarre

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I just aim for 20L into the FV and start with 24L + 4L for sparging - these are always fixed numbers and I adjust the amount of grain as per BeerSmith. Last time target OG was 1.061 and I hit 1.06 so I am getting very close. Simple. And why would I want half amount of beer, say 10L, if I can get 20L? My newest brew is always the best I've brewed so far so I want to max out on the quantity...:D
 

Sudz

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I just aim for 20L into the FV and start with 24L + 4L for sparging - these are always fixed numbers and I adjust the amount of grain as per BeerSmith. :D
This is what I had in mind.

It appeared to me the system more or less dictates the water required and the grain remains as the principal variant. Since the liquor/grist ratio is not fixed, this makes things really simple. Stronger brew, just add more grain....

Cool!
 

Yambor44

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Sudz said:
This is what I had in mind.

It appeared to me the system more or less dictates the water required and the grain remains as the principal variant. Since the liquor/grist ratio is not fixed, this makes things really simple. Stronger brew, just add more grain....

Cool!
Exactly!
 

makomachine

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So I'm at 1019 today on the Altbier and bumped it up to 68F to finish out. Impressions from the hydrometer sample is I did pick up a little diacytl fermenting cool, so the rest was in order and should clean that up. Beyond that it appears to be going well.

I'm debating my next brew but thinking of a Stone IPA clone, Surly Furious Clone, or Vanilla Porter. My Pliny Clone is about gone so leaning towards an IPA. Anyone have a good recipe for the Furious? And, more importantly, can I get the hops??
 

DeGarre

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Started brewing today. Disaster!

Wort was shooting out of the malt pipe, same thing that happened to Yambor. had to abort and clean up, will try tomorrow again. My 7th brew and never had this happen before...but I did do 2 things differently from before.

1. Grain bill was smaller. 3.25kg ie 7.2 lb. Same amount of water 24L ie 6.3 gal.

2. I usually attach the filter mesh to the top metal sieve. This time I also attached the bottom one to the bottom metal grill/sieve so it was really tight and wouldn't let any grain off.

I think #2 was the problem. I reckon the bottom one has to live a bit, give way when the pump is pushing out from the bottom.

Think this was your problem, Yambor?


EDIT: Will brew today, crushing the grain as I write. I couldn't sleep tonight...
 

Yambor44

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DeGarre said:
Started brewing today. Disaster!

Wort was shooting out of the malt pipe, same thing that happened to Yambor. had to abort and clean up, will try tomorrow again. My 7th brew and never had this happen before...but I did do 2 things differently from before.

1. Grain bill was smaller. 3.25kg ie 7.2 lb. Same amount of water 24L ie 6.3 gal.

2. I usually attach the filter mesh to the top metal sieve. This time I also attached the bottom one to the bottom metal grill/sieve so it was really tight and wouldn't let any grain off.

I think #2 was the problem. I reckon the bottom one has to live a bit, give way when the pump is pushing out from the bottom.

Think this was your problem, Yambor?

EDIT: Will brew today, crushing the grain as I write. I couldn't sleep tonight...
I "think" mine may have been my crush was too fine. I increased my gap some and my efficiency dropped to 67%. not too bad, but I tightened it back to 1.00mm or .039" which is factory I think. I will brew a 5 gallon batch thus weekend for a YouTube experiment I'm helping with. Not sure if that will determine anything though. I wonder what the actual cause may be as I brewed 4-6 batches with the same crush and no problem. If you go back to that video I made, a fellow experienced BM posted some thoughts on what it might be.

As far as your filtering, are you saying you put two filters on the bottom sieve? If so, did that leave zero on the top?

Rob
 

DeGarre

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...

As far as your filtering, are you saying you put two filters on the bottom sieve? If so, did that leave zero on the top?

Rob
No, one on the bottom and one on top, I just attched the filter on the bottom to the sieve, first time I ever did that and I had a geysir on my hands.

Mashing now and all looking good...:rockin:
 

DeGarre

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So you put the filter on the bottom of the bottom sieve. No...I wouldn't do that. :D
No no, right way around, first the metal sieve, then filter (only difference here was I tied them together)
Then malt in, then metal filter and sieve (I have usually tied these together except first 2 brews).

What I am thinking, on the bottow, perhaps the filter needs to have some leeway above the sieve?
 

Yambor44

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Ahhhh. Mine are sewn on top and bottom and I have one brew with the bottom done and one brew with both done. No problem on either one. But then again as mentioned before I didn't have a shooting wort problem the first 4-6 brews either then bam.

 
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DeGarre

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I had absolutely no problems on the 2nd try today, I even had the lid on most of the time, just slightly open every now and then and the boil obv. was more of a vigorous rolling kind instead of a limp one...screw vegetable/celery soup taste, looks like my hopped wort was clear for the first time!

I don't know why the wort shot out but I won't be sewing my bottom filter on the sieve that's for sure.

I brewed a mild brown ale, overshot OG slightly (1.036 vs 1.035), 24 L to start with, 4 for sparge, end of the mash end up with 24L, and 20L into the FV, seems to work pretty well every time.

Looking forward to your brewing video, Rob.
 

makomachine

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1036... 1035... That is spot on in my book! Glad it worked out for you today! I may be shooting a vid of my brew day this coming weekend if all goes well. On deck: Vanilla Porter!

I'm thinking I'm going to purchase the copper hood down the road as I half covered my pot this past weekend on my Altbier and seemed to get a better hot break. Too early to call, but if that proves to be true, might warrant a shiny copper bling addition!
 

Yambor44

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I had absolutely no problems on the 2nd try today, I even had the lid on most of the time, just slightly open every now and then and the boil obv. was more of a vigorous rolling kind instead of a limp one...screw vegetable/celery soup taste, looks like my hopped wort was clear for the first time!

I don't know why the wort shot out but I won't be sewing my bottom filter on the sieve that's for sure.

I brewed a mild brown ale, overshot OG slightly (1.036 vs 1.035), 24 L to start with, 4 for sparge, end of the mash end up with 24L, and 20L into the FV, seems to work pretty well every time.

Looking forward to your brewing video, Rob.
Never say never.....:D :p :mug:
 

makomachine

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Well, I'm mid-mash on the porter and have a periodic fountain myself today. Same LHBS crush, with obviously a different grain bill. It only happens every now and then and I'm keeping the lid on it today. I've also got yet another grain in the pump making some noise as well - still working fine but rattling like crazy.

Chris- are you still using your whirlpool mod and is it working OK? Wondering if a more indirect flow from the pump might not help.

Rob - same location as yours, meaning on the edge of the malt pipe.

I'm also contemplating a screen mod to help keep the grain in the pipe when it gets past the edge of the plates on pump breaks. Need to find some stainless screen in small sheets and will document my idea with pictures once I get the materials.
 

makomachine

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I paused my mash and took the top plate and screen off and it was pretty compacted across the top. I broke it up and stirred slightly and thus far I'm geyser free. I realized my grain bill has a 1/4 pound carawheat and that may be what caused my compacting issue. I have rice hulls but didn't think to add them and in hindsight believe that would have prevented it.
 

bullsneck

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Evening all! (It's evening here in Australia anyway)

Bought a Braumeister a few weeks back and have brewed twice already with it. Still ironing out details, but learning each time. This thread has been amazing. Thanks to all those who have contributed.

I'm looking to do a Light Ale, looking at around 1.038 OG, provided by around 3.8kg of malt. There is a maximum amount of grain that the malt pipe can hold, is there a minimum? Will my 3.8kg of malt be okay?

Cheers?

bullsneck

ps - sorry about the metric
 

DeGarre

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...
I'm looking to do a Light Ale, looking at around 1.038 OG, provided by around 3.8kg of malt. There is a maximum amount of grain that the malt pipe can hold, is there a minimum? Will my 3.8kg of malt be okay?

...
Hi mate, g'day, some of us can do the metric - welcome to the BM party.

My 7th brew with 20 litre was a mild brown ale, I went for 1.035 and got 1.036, I had approx. 3.25kg grain bill (just check my posts from the last week or so). When you're pouring in the malt just make sure it is not lumpy, stirr it well, it will seeml there is awful lot of water and just too little of grain but it will work just fine.

So I reckon 3 kilos or so will be just fine. Below that, who cares...:mug:
 

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Catching up on the thread today - we're closing in on 1,000 posts!

Yes, I'm still using the whirlpool mod - 7 batches with it and no problems so far. While it helps, the whirlpool isn't very strong so the cone isn't as concentrated as it would be using other methods. I've started pointing the output of the elbow towards the kettle valve so that it keeps hops and break material from collecting under the dip tub - seems to be working well.

I took a quick video today to show the boil with the kettle uncovered vs using the copper hood. I used antifoam drops to keep things from erupting out of the hood which is what happened the first/last time I used it. The video can be seen at the link below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lasley/6118058601/

-Chris
 

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Yes, it would foam out of the hood like a bad science experiment. I actually had to add more drops as I went along to keep things in check.

-Chris
 

makomachine

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Yes, it would foam out of the hood like a bad science experiment. I actually had to add more drops as I went along to keep things in check.

-Chris
Chris - Did you try dialing back the temp a degree to see if it dropped intensity slightly? I've used my lid to slightly heighten the boil by covering 1/2 the kettle last time with good result. Was considering the hood but if you can't fine tune it, might not go that route.
 

clasley

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Possibly. I had mine set to 101C for both shots in the video.

Another note - I drilled a small hole in the lid for the long stem thermometer I posted awhile back. I watched the temps while chilling on both thermometers. They started out in sync and quickly started drifting with the built-in thermometer ending up >13C off target. I can't help but think hops and break material are blanketing the built-in thermometer throwing off the readings.

-Chris
 

makomachine

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Possibly. I had mine set to 101C for both shots in the video.

Another note - I drilled a small hole in the lid for the long stem thermometer I posted awhile back. I watched the temps while chilling on both thermometers. They started out in sync and quickly started drifting with the built-in thermometer ending up >13C off target. I can't help but think hops and break material are blanketing the built-in thermometer throwing off the readings.

-Chris
Was the built in thermometer higher than the other or lower? Were you running the pump when the differences showed up or was it with the pump off? Mine have been close when checked after transferring to carboy but never did a side by side comparison in real time.
 

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The built-in was reading higher/warmer. The pump was running the entire time. I watched temps during the mash as well. They only started to drift out of sync in the last part of chilling. Otherwise they were +/-0.5 degrees of each other.

-Chris
 

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Wow, this tread is looong now!
And lots of new Speidles, that's great!

Havent been brewing much lately, the arctic summer is too short to not spend it outside and consuming old beer. Getting low, good thing fall is here with some nasty weather weekends perfect for brewing!

Anyways, on 20ish batches on my BM, I've had channelling/fountaining issues on two. Those were two consecutive batches of witbier using 50% raw wheat. Lots of wheat cauces channelling and fountains I concluded and have been reluctant trying it again. Maybe rice hulls would solve the problem?
 

DeGarre

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On Sunday I went for a slightly higher gravity brew than usual. For Beersmith 1064 estimate I actually hit 1062 by using 6kg (= 13lb 4oz grain bill) when I usually have 5kg ie 11lb grain bill. So 1 kilo = 2lb 3oz difference.

The pump sounded ok, did not seem to be working any harder than usual, only difference I noticed was that usually when the pump is on the wort happily falls over the edge of the malt pipe, like a waterfall, and makes a dripping sound. This time there was no sound because the wort was just gently getting over the edge. A few times I had to check that the wort was actually circulating because I wasn't sure, it was that slow.

So I was quite happy that I didn't go over 6 kilos, but I need to check this thread how others have pushed the system.

EDIT. I see Chris brewed with 6.5kg and thinks 6.8kg would be the absolute max.
 

Yambor44

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On Sunday I went for a slightly higher gravity brew than usual. For Beersmith 1064 estimate I actually hit 1062 by using 6kg (= 13lb 4oz grain bill) when I usually have 5kg ie 11lb grain bill. So 1 kilo = 2lb 3oz difference.

The pump sounded ok, did not seem to be working any harder than usual, only difference I noticed was that usually when the pump is on the wort happily falls over the edge of the malt pipe, like a waterfall, and makes a dripping sound. This time there was no sound because the wort was just gently getting over the edge. A few times I had to check that the wort was actually circulating because I wasn't sure, it was that slow.

So I was quite happy that I didn't go over 6 kilos, but I need to check this thread how others have pushed the system.

EDIT. I see Chris brewed with 6.5kg and thinks 6.8kg would be the absolute max.
I brewed recently with 13 pounds in my 50L with my 20L malt pipe and it was THICK! Made it all the way thru but I cannot see going more....
 

londonvictoria

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A quick question for you knowledgeable Braumeiter afficionados...

Do any of you know any breweries/pubs/individuals who are running a business using the 200L?

Thanks!

Victoria
(BM20L new owner)
 

Sudz

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A quick question for you knowledgeable Braumeiter afficionados...

Do any of you know any breweries/pubs/individuals who are running a business using the 200L?

Thanks!

Victoria
(BM20L new owner)
I saw a post by someone in Australia who was running their business with one of these. I think it was in this post somewhere but I'm not certain.
 
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