No worries. It's about as easy as you could make all grain with a high degree of control in your mash temps, IMO. Haven't got enough time with it yet to give a final opinion on it, but I'd buy it again in a heartbeat given my brewing sessions to date.Thanks Makomachine!
I can now follow the thread with a reasonable level of understanding about this brew process. The more I read, the more I'm favorably impressed!
What you have to realise is that reducing the amount of water will put extra strain on the the pump. When the pump starts, the water level inside the malt pipe will rise. Outside the maltpipe the water level will fall. A difference in pressure will build up directly proportional to the difference in height of the two fluid levels. To maintain the wort circulation the pump has to overcome both the resistance of the grain bed and the pressure difference as a result of the difference in fluid levels inside and outside the maltpipe. Therefore reducing the amount of water will slow down the circulation. I recently experienced adding more than the advised 23 liters helped me to improve circulation when i'm using a high grain bill. I suspect reducing the amount of water will decrease the efficiency and therefore will result in a lower instead of a a higher end gravity.I understand 3 gallons wouldn't work. I also understand that the traditional ratios are not necessary applicable the BM brewing. I haven't made any but there are light brews out there with 8 lb grain bills.
My question stems aroung the BM system. Simply put, how much water does it (20L) require for circulation? Can someone with a 20L tell me?
Very good... Yes I am ...sorta.How's your build coming along? Aren't you trying to build a similar unit?
This is what I had in mind.I just aim for 20L into the FV and start with 24L + 4L for sparging - these are always fixed numbers and I adjust the amount of grain as per BeerSmith.
Exactly!Sudz said:This is what I had in mind.
It appeared to me the system more or less dictates the water required and the grain remains as the principal variant. Since the liquor/grist ratio is not fixed, this makes things really simple. Stronger brew, just add more grain....
I "think" mine may have been my crush was too fine. I increased my gap some and my efficiency dropped to 67%. not too bad, but I tightened it back to 1.00mm or .039" which is factory I think. I will brew a 5 gallon batch thus weekend for a YouTube experiment I'm helping with. Not sure if that will determine anything though. I wonder what the actual cause may be as I brewed 4-6 batches with the same crush and no problem. If you go back to that video I made, a fellow experienced BM posted some thoughts on what it might be.DeGarre said:Started brewing today. Disaster!
Wort was shooting out of the malt pipe, same thing that happened to Yambor. had to abort and clean up, will try tomorrow again. My 7th brew and never had this happen before...but I did do 2 things differently from before.
1. Grain bill was smaller. 3.25kg ie 7.2 lb. Same amount of water 24L ie 6.3 gal.
2. I usually attach the filter mesh to the top metal sieve. This time I also attached the bottom one to the bottom metal grill/sieve so it was really tight and wouldn't let any grain off.
I think #2 was the problem. I reckon the bottom one has to live a bit, give way when the pump is pushing out from the bottom.
Think this was your problem, Yambor?
EDIT: Will brew today, crushing the grain as I write. I couldn't sleep tonight...
No, one on the bottom and one on top, I just attched the filter on the bottom to the sieve, first time I ever did that and I had a geysir on my hands....
As far as your filtering, are you saying you put two filters on the bottom sieve? If so, did that leave zero on the top?
No no, right way around, first the metal sieve, then filter (only difference here was I tied them together)So you put the filter on the bottom of the bottom sieve. No...I wouldn't do that.
Never say never.....I had absolutely no problems on the 2nd try today, I even had the lid on most of the time, just slightly open every now and then and the boil obv. was more of a vigorous rolling kind instead of a limp one...screw vegetable/celery soup taste, looks like my hopped wort was clear for the first time!
I don't know why the wort shot out but I won't be sewing my bottom filter on the sieve that's for sure.
I brewed a mild brown ale, overshot OG slightly (1.036 vs 1.035), 24 L to start with, 4 for sparge, end of the mash end up with 24L, and 20L into the FV, seems to work pretty well every time.
Looking forward to your brewing video, Rob.
Hi mate, g'day, some of us can do the metric - welcome to the BM party....
I'm looking to do a Light Ale, looking at around 1.038 OG, provided by around 3.8kg of malt. There is a maximum amount of grain that the malt pipe can hold, is there a minimum? Will my 3.8kg of malt be okay?
Chris - Did you try dialing back the temp a degree to see if it dropped intensity slightly? I've used my lid to slightly heighten the boil by covering 1/2 the kettle last time with good result. Was considering the hood but if you can't fine tune it, might not go that route.Yes, it would foam out of the hood like a bad science experiment. I actually had to add more drops as I went along to keep things in check.
Was the built in thermometer higher than the other or lower? Were you running the pump when the differences showed up or was it with the pump off? Mine have been close when checked after transferring to carboy but never did a side by side comparison in real time.Possibly. I had mine set to 101C for both shots in the video.
Another note - I drilled a small hole in the lid for the long stem thermometer I posted awhile back. I watched the temps while chilling on both thermometers. They started out in sync and quickly started drifting with the built-in thermometer ending up >13C off target. I can't help but think hops and break material are blanketing the built-in thermometer throwing off the readings.
I brewed recently with 13 pounds in my 50L with my 20L malt pipe and it was THICK! Made it all the way thru but I cannot see going more....On Sunday I went for a slightly higher gravity brew than usual. For Beersmith 1064 estimate I actually hit 1062 by using 6kg (= 13lb 4oz grain bill) when I usually have 5kg ie 11lb grain bill. So 1 kilo = 2lb 3oz difference.
The pump sounded ok, did not seem to be working any harder than usual, only difference I noticed was that usually when the pump is on the wort happily falls over the edge of the malt pipe, like a waterfall, and makes a dripping sound. This time there was no sound because the wort was just gently getting over the edge. A few times I had to check that the wort was actually circulating because I wasn't sure, it was that slow.
So I was quite happy that I didn't go over 6 kilos, but I need to check this thread how others have pushed the system.
EDIT. I see Chris brewed with 6.5kg and thinks 6.8kg would be the absolute max.
I saw a post by someone in Australia who was running their business with one of these. I think it was in this post somewhere but I'm not certain.A quick question for you knowledgeable Braumeiter afficionados...
Do any of you know any breweries/pubs/individuals who are running a business using the 200L?
(BM20L new owner)