Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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makomachine

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I'm hoping mine arrives in thenext couple of weeks. I've got a trip I'm taking and hope it's here when I get back. I have a Citra Pale Ale, American Wheat, Strawberry Blonde, and Schwarzbier to brew!
 

Yambor44

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Would one of you kindly post the diameter of the spigot on the 50L model? I'm trying to determine what ID hose can be attached to it. I'm guessing .5" but I can't tell for sure.

Thanks in advance.
Are you wanting to add a hose to the inside or outside? If outside, I use a 3/8" ID braided line on mine.
 

beradthefish

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Are you wanting to add a hose to the inside or outside? If outside, I use a 3/8" ID braided line on mine.
On the outside. I would want to use a .5" ID hose on the output. Thorsten told me it's only 10mm but it's threaded and can be replaced. What's unclear is the thread size and diameter.
 

Yambor44

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beradthefish said:
On the outside. I would want to use a .5" ID hose on the output. Thorsten told me it's only 10mm but it's threaded and can be replaced. What's unclear is the thread size and diameter.
Ahhh. I can't help you with that as I don't know how to measure thread size. Are you thinking of removing the spout and adding a hose and pump?
 

BtotheG

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I've been thinking about getting a pump and a plate chiller (kind of a DIY chill wizard) for my current setup and was hoping if I upgraded to this I would still be able to use it. Seems most plumbing sold for brewing is 1/2". I wonder if it's possible. By the way, awesome, very helpful videos and discussion.
 

beradthefish

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Ahhh. I can't help you with that as I don't know how to measure thread size. Are you thinking of removing the spout and adding a hose and pump?
Right. Optimally it would be a 1/2" hose barb off the spigot. All academic, I don't own one of these as of right now :)
 

beradthefish

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See post #552 back in this thread hfk2 has a pic of his with a hose and pump hooked to it. He should chime in here shortly with your answer.
That's what I'm looking for, thanks. Hopefully he'll chime in because I can't quite make out how the connection is made.
 

hfk2

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Beradthefish, sorry for the delayed response, I've been away for a bit. I have the 20L BM so I'm not sure if the spigot is the same size, however all I did was use a length of 1/2" reinforced silicon tubing with 2 hose clamps. Don't over tighten the clamps because the the spigot is tapered and it will try to slide the hose off. It doesn't leak and is easy to take off and clean. I used regular thick walled silicon tubing first but found the material was very soft and the clamps would dig into the silicon, so I was concerned that after a few times removing the hose the hose would be too chewed up and have to be replaced. So far it has worked just fine. On the pump end of the hose I use a heat resistant quick connect with a 1/2" barb. Hope this helps.
 

hfk2

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hfk2

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Both tubes work well. You will get many uses out of the cheaper tube and if you're careful about tightening the clamps it will last the life of the tube. I tighten the clamps too much the first time I used it which chewed up the outer tubing. It still worked, but I like to take it off after every session to completely clean and sanitize the spigot and tubing. The expensive tube has a reinforcement molded into it, so even if you clamp down too much you will chew up the outer covering but it wont go past the reinforcement. You will also need to use some sort of quick connect on the pump end to allow the hose to swivel. The spigot when turned rotates the spout 90 degrees, so because the tubing is solidly attached to the spout it will rotate the whole tube therefore the pump end needs to be able to rotate or you will twist the tube which might recoil to keep closing the spigot on you. This was a cheaper and easier method than trying to find a metric sized valve to fit the BM opening.
 

DeGarre

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If only the bottling day was as easy going and effortless as the brewing day...have to say my esb and ipa are getting better every day. I actually prefer my esb to Fullers one. I recently joined CBA in the UK (Craft Brewing Association) and I was asked to write a piece on BM. Apparently not that popular in the UK. This thread will be valuable when I put together my concise review. Thank you.
 

wreals

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Brewing my first beer on the Braumeister today.

10 gallons of Bee Cave Haus Pale Ale.
 

DeGarre

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Brewing my first beer on the Braumeister today.

10 gallons of Bee Cave Haus Pale Ale.
Good on you! Have fun and enjoy your special day.

(I'll be brewing the 4th time on Monday or Tuesday. I'll probably go for ~1.042 bitter with amarillo twist...)
 

wreals

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I'm brewing my dogs, which means I'm doing all the work. You guys were right, pulling that malt-pipe out was a pain in the ass. Once you get past the suction created by the pipe, it gets easier but I need to rethink the height of my brew table, it was on the edge of being too high, even with a step ladder.

On a very positive note, this has been a very quite and relaxing brewing experience. I've been kegging other batches and generally doing other things, while I'm brewing.
 

wreals

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Everything went great with the Braumeister but my march pump is a whole different story. It took forever to prime and then one of the hoses blew off my plate chiller, scalding my fingers.

Also, my ground water is a balmy 83 degrees right now, so I had to just dump it into my conical and chill it down in it's fermentation chamber. I should be able to pitch later today.

Cleaning wise, how do you get the pumps apart?
 

davewaldo

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Pump cleaning is nice and easy. Just flush water through the inlets and outlet then turn the whole unit upside down and unscrew the pump's brass end covers. The inside can then be inspected. These should only be on hand-tight, not need to force them. :)
 

DeGarre

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I've been kegging other batches and generally doing other things, while I'm brewing.
I sanitise and clean while mashing and boiling, after having pitched the yeast I only have to clean the BM and mop the floor.
 

rlhvegas

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Well I took the plunge! After reading this thread and some rearranging of finances, I placed my order Friday for a 20l system with thermal jacket! I'm so excited! :ban: Now the two week wait... And I thought waiting for a Russian Imperial to finish was bad!
 

Yambor44

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rlhvegas said:
Well I took the plunge! After reading this thread and some rearranging of finances, I placed my order Friday for a 20l system with thermal jacket! I'm so excited! :ban: Now the two week wait... And I thought waiting for a Russian Imperial to finish was bad!
Congratulations Vegas!
 

makomachine

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Just got back from my trip and my unit is sitting at my brothers house. Can't wait to brew this weekend!
 

makomachine

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Received my 20l Braumeister last week and had "First Brew" on Sunday.

Went with the 70200x45 from International Configurations for power. A little pricey but nice - gives me GFI, a switched outlet and no need to mod the cord.

Brewed in the kitchen which I haven't done since my extract days. So nice to be indoors (it rained all day) with a sink and hot water. Day went without a hitch. Hit ~80% efficiency with a quick sparge after lifting the malt pipe, no stirring just poured over the top plate. Going to try including the sparge water in the initial mix and see what that gets me.

Purchased the insulating jacket and copper hood based on comments that the heating on the 20l unit is a little anemic. Jacket is a _tight_ fit but nicely made. The copper hood is built like a brick - really thick gauge copper. With both in place I got a really solid rolling boil. Measured the max heat output at 1 degree C per minute (1.8F/min) with 25 liters.

I'm very impressed and one happy camper. Overall the most pleasant brew session I have had in years.

-Chris
Chris - opened up my 20L unit with the intent of cutting the cord and modifying but cant bring myself to do it! Would taking the 7200X45 and placing in a box wired to the drier plug work as an interface that can be moved? Thinking about future locations and possibly tying this switched box to a future stand build.

SB to 7200X45 in box wired to drier cord to drier outlet
 

clasley

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Chris - opened up my 20L unit with the intent of cutting the cord and modifying but cant bring myself to do it! Would taking the 7200X45 and placing in a box wired to the drier plug work as an interface that can be moved? Thinking about future locations and possibly tying this switched box to a future stand build.

SB to 7200X45 in box wired to drier cord to drier outlet
That should work. The surface mount version would make it even easier. I hard wired mine into an existing junction box tied to my electric cooktop. The wiring was pretty straight forward once I got my head around it.

My main goal with the 70200X45 was GFI protection. If that's not a concern there are cheaper options. You could get a female Schuko plug and fashion an extension cord similar to what wreals did a few pages back. You could also toss the original cord in the box and make a new cord with an IEC C-13 plug (double check me on the pinout).

-Chris
 

makomachine

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Thanks Chris. I'm very interested in GFI as well so think I'll move forward with this option. Thanks for the suggestion of the surface mount box, but I may end up doing what you did once we build our new house and will buy with the intent of using an in wall solution down the road. I can get an electrical box cheap and future proof that way.

How are things going for you on the wort clarity front?
 

clasley

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How are things going for you on the wort clarity front?
Just took time, finally cleared out after a couple months.

Used my Therminator on the last batch and things are clear out of the fermenter. I suspect I wasn't getting a good cold break with the Speidel chiller. It's a thing of beauty but it's not much of a chiller. Not sure if the walls are too thick or there isn't enough length but it's going to be replaced. Haven't decided if I'll stick with the Therminator or build/buy another cooper immersion chiller. The plate chiller is just a pain to deal with compared to an immersion chiller IMHO.

-Chris
 

Yambor44

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Just took time, finally cleared out after a couple months.

Used my Therminator on the last batch and things are clear out of the fermenter. I suspect I wasn't getting a good cold break with the Speidel chiller. It's a thing of beauty but it's not much of a chiller. Not sure if the walls are too thick or there isn't enough length but it's going to be replaced. Haven't decided if I'll stick with the Therminator or build/buy another cooper immersion chiller. The plate chiller is just a pain to deal with compared to an immersion chiller IMHO.

-Chris
I agree with you there Chris. If you are fanatical about getting all the crud out of it anyway. :mug:
 

clasley

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Here's a couple picts of my install of the 70200X45 from International Configurations. The components are actually made by Legrand. There's a green led that lights up when the receptacle has power. I keep it switched off unless I'm brewing.

-Chris

DSC_0010.jpg


DSC_0023.jpg
 

rnarzisi

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Hello-

I know that there has been a lot of discussion on keeping the filters in place. It seems the two best situations are to use ss wire to "sew" the filter to the false bottom piece or to use ss paperclips to cli the two together. I used the SS wire trick on my last brew, and while it was effective it was a complete PITA to set up and take apart. SS paperclips are rather difficult to find and I wonder if the added clips would make the false bottom just a touch too wide to fit easily into the malt pipe. (I have a small dent in my malt pipe from shipping and the false bottom piece always hits that on the way in and out. I can't help but wonder what would happen if I have six or eight clips attached to the false bottom.)

Anyway... has anyone tried using small magnets to hold the filter and false bottom together? I think this solution would have the advantages of being quick to set up and take apart, not adding to the circumference of the false bottom, as well as not trashing the filter from repeatedly sewing the filter in place. Possible downsides to this solution that I see are: potential to knock the magnets off whilst stirring the grain, not using enough magnets and allowing grain to slip by the filter around the edges, and whether or not magnets are food safe.

Can anyone see a downside to this solution? Has anyone tried it? What type of magnets would be food safe?
 

datamike

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Stainless steel, is generally non-magnetic....

Michael

Hello-

I know that there has been a lot of discussion on keeping the filters in place. It seems the two best situations are to use ss wire to "sew" the filter to the false bottom piece or to use ss paperclips to cli the two together. I used the SS wire trick on my last brew, and while it was effective it was a complete PITA to set up and take apart. SS paperclips are rather difficult to find and I wonder if the added clips would make the false bottom just a touch too wide to fit easily into the malt pipe. (I have a small dent in my malt pipe from shipping and the false bottom piece always hits that on the way in and out. I can't help but wonder what would happen if I have six or eight clips attached to the false bottom.)

Anyway... has anyone tried using small magnets to hold the filter and false bottom together? I think this solution would have the advantages of being quick to set up and take apart, not adding to the circumference of the false bottom, as well as not trashing the filter from repeatedly sewing the filter in place. Possible downsides to this solution that I see are: potential to knock the magnets off whilst stirring the grain, not using enough magnets and allowing grain to slip by the filter around the edges, and whether or not magnets are food safe.

Can anyone see a downside to this solution? Has anyone tried it? What type of magnets would be food safe?
 

Yambor44

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Yambor, I'm missing your cool videos. Any news at the BM front?
HA HA! Been out of town for a week and had a lense replaced in one of my eyes and yada yada yada.... :mug:

Just kegged 10 gallons of a SNPA clone, have 10 gallons of Bobby from NJ's Blonde Ale to keg but I'm in the middle of grilling/smoking 2 whole spatch cocked chickens and 8 bone in chicken breasts. Will probably keg that tomorrow. Then I can brew as I will have space in my fermentation freezer!! :p

I have to say tho I have been really enjoying the beer that I have brewed with my BM. Getting dialed in! Just blew 2 kegs; a Hopburst and a Centennial Pale Ale. Enjoying a Stump-knocker Pale Ale clone from Gainesville's Swamphead brewery at the moment.
 

makomachine

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Here's a couple picts of my install of the 70200X45 from International Configurations. The components are actually made by Legrand. There's a green led that lights up when the receptacle has power. I keep it switched off unless I'm brewing.

-Chris
Chris- got the exact same setup but a bit confused on the wiring on this. Do you have any pics of how it's wired?
 

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I really have to say this is the first thread for any forum that I have read "cover to cover" you guys are awesome. My homebrewing PIC and I are saving and speculating on our first AG setup and I am pretty much sold on the BM. Yambor your vids and notes have been invaluable. HFK, your pretty close to us so I'll probably be reaching out once we're up and running, everyone else has been great too, so many contributions, I don't think I've ever seen a thread this long with such a low percentage of negging hijackers (even though I'm kind of hijacking now...), I can't even think of one! So much cooperation and info, this thread has my vote for best thread ever, can't wait to get my BM stripes and be admitted into the fraternal brotherhood of BM brewers. You guys are the shiznizzle.
 

makomachine

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Chris - never mind as I figured it out. Nothing worse than over thinking the issue- have a little bit of electrical knowledge but no experience with GFCI and higher voltage. Red and black wires off of my 4 prong drier cord, running into the unit housed in it's own box results in this!





Now I have to figure out a stand (sitting on the box currently!), create my dip tube, clean the unit, and brew! I've got either a Citra Pale Ale or American Wheat up first, ingredients in hand. Will post something up on the first brew.

I read in the thread where people are accounting for ~3 liters boil off in their process. I'm going for a 90 minute boil and need to nail down my initial volume required if I sparge with 3.5 liters. Any suggestions from the 20L crew?

I'm also planning on using the default mash schedule the first few rounds so I have a baseline, unless others have a better schedule they would recommend.

Appreciate ALL of the input - this thread rocks and happy to be a member of the SB club! Video after the brew!
 

rnarzisi

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I'm using a metro rack stand from Storables. Just a small 18x24 stand that's maybe 14 inches off the ground. The stand allows me to hang the lifting hook off the side, the support bar fits perfectly into the shelf grating pointing downward, and the bottom shelf is perfect for storing the copper hood. Best of all, no welding needed and takes less that ten minutes to set up.

Picture coming soon.
 

hfk2

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Hello Makomachine, I'll give some of my observations. For stands go back to page 8 and after, you'll see several different approaches to stands. I used an unused night stand. I added casters, mounted my pump and electrical switch box. I can store everything inside it and roll it away when done. Yambor44 has a nice stainless steel table he cut the legs down on it seems very stable and gives a lot of table top space. I boil for 90 minutes but add a 1500 watt heatstick so I get a very vigorous boil. I boil off just under 1.5 gals. Chris has the copper hood and says he gets a good rolling boil, so he might add in his boil off numbers. I sparge with 2 gals of 168F water to fill the boiler to just over the top mark (25liters (6.6gals)). If you use the default mash schedule, write it down. Once you change it you lose it. The BM defaults to the last schedule used. The BM default schedule is typical of what most Germans brew - wheat beers. It would probably work very well for your American wheat beer. I brew mainly lagers and I used it for a German lager which came out very well with a strong malt flavor which is typical of German lagers. When I use well modified malts (which is most of the time) I change the protein rest to 55C (131F) for 15 minutes to help with head retention. I keep the maltose rest at 63C (145F), but lower the first sach rest to 70C (158F), and mash out at 76C (168F). The BM mashes out at 78C (172F) which I think starts to leach the tannins out of the husks and gives a little astringent taste, but i'm doing light colored lagers mostly. Don't forget to do a batch with a short protein rest and a single temp rest of between 148F to 156F. I've had very good beer come out with a simple mash. Also if you have a yard stick with centimeters on it, one centimeter equals one liter in the 20l BM. Hope this makes some sense. Let us know how you make out.
 
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I stand my BM50L on top of a sanke keg that I cover with a circular piece of marine grade ply. Perfect height for lifting malt pipe (I use a small step-stool to stand on) and good height for positioning carboys, kegs etc under tap.
I also like that I can move around the BM freely and access it from any angle.
 

makomachine

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Thanks for the input guys. I've been out running errands today and will be brewing tomorrow. I picked up a cheap stand at Target to get me buy in the near term as we are planning on moving and I'll have a more permanent brew room in the new house. Got everything I needed but my LHBS didn't have any silicone tubing, so no dip tube for now. They gave me a stub of vinyl tubing for free, but I told them it wasn't temp rated to boiling. They argued, so I kept it but it's clearly not going to work. (They were trying to be helpful so didn't press the point with them) thanks for the input on the mash schedules as I've decided to start with the wheat and their default schedule tomorrow. Will post when the dust settles with pics and or video.
 
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