Someone gave me kegs... and I don't know what to do

[ganu]

(and no, you can't have them.)

My Chief at work has given me some of his old homebrew equipment. The 3 big items that can still be used are a 5 Gal carboy and 2 kegs. Thing is, I don't exactly know what to do with the kegs. I don't even know enough about kegging to have an idea about what I should WANT to do with them.

***One keg is Spartanburg and one is Cornelious.*** They are both 15 or so years old, and there's NO telling when they were used last. The layer of dust suggests that it's been a while.

ALL of my previous batches (all 4 of them) have just been mostly the "primary-to-bottling bucket-to-racking" routine. Therefore, I have MANY questions.


1. I'm sure that I need to change my o-rings. Are these two kegs interchangeable? Can I buy one type of o-ring kit and have it fit both types of kegs?

2. What all DO people do with kegs? Is this something that I'm gonna put a batch in once it's finished in the primary? You know, pretty much just take the place of racking? Maybe lager your batch with them? Or is there much more you can do with kegs and your batch? (I dunno.)

3. On my fittings, I notice how they are keyed so that you cannot get your lines crossed (makes sense). Please correct me/educate me if I'm wrong, but I don't think that they are ball-valves. The top of the nipple is flush and not convex like a ball would be. I mention THAT because I often see references to the ball-valves on kegs. If I have some other type, I need to know so that I get the right o-ring kit. Plus, I'm assuming that there are springs in these fittings that need to be replaced.

4. The... top?.... cover?... whatever it's called. The hatch with the flip-type handle on it. There is a small stem sticking up from it. Is this some type of relief valve? Is that going to be a problem disassembling/cleaning since there's likely a calibrated spring in there?

5. Any special instructions I need to be aware of when cleaning, or do I just pretty much clean them like I would a primary/carboy?


I tried to keep it simple, but I just basically know nothing about kegs.

Thanks.

G

 

[user 40839]

Alright, G! Congrats on the score...

1: 99.9% of ball lock kegs use the same o-rings. You can, in a pinch, buy these in sets from your LHBS, but they tend to be REALLY expensive ($3.95 per set at mine). You can get 'em in bulk from McMaster-Carr, part numbers are...

Dip Tube O-Rings - 9452K172
5/16" ID x 1/2"OD x 3/32" width, BunaN #109
Pkg 100/$1.89

Post O-Rings - 9452K23
7/16" ID x 5/8" OD x 3/32" width, BunaN #111
Pkg 100/$2.15

Lid O-Rings - 9452K218
3 1/2" ID x 4" OD x 1/4" width, BunaN #417
Pkg 10/$12.50

I change my post and dip tube o-rings after every batch/cleaning, but you generally only need to replace the lid o-rings once.

2: The keg replaces bottling. Once you're done with fermenting (including secondary, if that's your thing), the beer goes into the thoroughly cleaned and sanitized keg. If you want to naturally carb in the keg, you add your priming sugar solution to the keg, slap the lid on, and stick it somewhere until it's ready. Most folks force carb.

3: The ball lock refers to the little sprung ball bearings that are on the inside of the quick disconnects.

4: Yup, that's a pressure relief valve. No need to take it out to clean it (at least I don't, anyways)

5: The November BYO has tons of info for new keggers. There's really too much for me to type. Here's a quick site to get you started, tho: http://www.jerseybrewers.com/Introd_to_Kegging_By_Paul.htm

Note that in addition to those kegs, you'll need a CO2 tank and regulator, the required disconnects, as well as some sort of serving tap (a cobra tap on the end of 6' of line is enough to get started!) And of course, room in a fridge somewhere to keep it's precious cargo cold!

 

[ganu]

Thanks for the reply, Uber. Regarding force carbing, I'm guessing that this is done by putting a high head pressure in your keg from a CO2 tank? There are probably physics/tables/temps etc that go into this, but is this the general idea? I vaguely recall reading this, though I could be wrong.

Hmmm, I get the feeling that I may jump into this kegging thing with all fours, but now might not be the right time. Looks like a bit of homework is in order.

I somehow doubt that Parpazian did a book on just kegging.

 

[Screw991le]

Read the sticky on Kegging, great place to start for info, chats, temps, etc.

 

[CharlesB]

+1 with regard to the McMaster parts. They work great on pin lock style kegs too.

I picked up 14 pin lock kegs from our local Coca-Cola distributor for the promise of a sample of my product when I get started, and after spending about $30 at McMaster, I had enough rings to rebuild all of the kegs with plenty of the tube and post rings left.

 

[ratfarmer]

Is there a equivalent o-ring at McMaster for the lid on a corny?

 

[CharlesB]

Is there a equivalent o-ring at McMaster for the lid on a corny?

These are the lid o-rings that I ordered a couple of weeks ago. They work just fine with ball lock or pin lock. The only o-ring I was even a little concerned with was the dip-tube o-ring, since it seems quite a bit thicker than the original, but it held when I pressure tested them overnight at 30 PSI.

Lid O-Rings - 9452K218
3 1/2" ID x 4" OD x 1/4" width, BunaN #417
Pkg 10/$12.50

 

[ratfarmer]

Wow thanks for posting that.
For some reason or another my eyes just skipped right over ubermick's lid part #!
I must of clicked on his Jersery Brewers link too quick.....hehe

Thanks again for the part numbers!

 

[Flomaster]

Alright, G! Congrats on the score...

1: 99.9% of ball lock kegs use the same o-rings. You can, in a pinch, buy these in sets from your LHBS, but they tend to be REALLY expensive ($3.95 per set at mine). You can get 'em in bulk from McMaster-Carr, part numbers are...

Dip Tube O-Rings - 9452K172
5/16" ID x 1/2"OD x 3/32" width, BunaN #109
Pkg 100/$1.89

Post O-Rings - 9452K23
7/16" ID x 5/8" OD x 3/32" width, BunaN #111
Pkg 100/$2.15

Lid O-Rings - 9452K218
3 1/2" ID x 4" OD x 1/4" width, BunaN #417
Pkg 10/$12.50

I change my post and dip tube o-rings after every batch/cleaning, but you generally only need to replace the lid o-rings once.

2: The keg replaces bottling. Once you're done with fermenting (including secondary, if that's your thing), the beer goes into the thoroughly cleaned and sanitized keg. If you want to naturally carb in the keg, you add your priming sugar solution to the keg, slap the lid on, and stick it somewhere until it's ready. Most folks force carb.

3: The ball lock refers to the little sprung ball bearings that are on the inside of the quick disconnects.

4: Yup, that's a pressure relief valve. No need to take it out to clean it (at least I don't, anyways)

5: The November BYO has tons of info for new keggers. There's really too much for me to type. Here's a quick site to get you started, tho: http://www.jerseybrewers.com/Introd_to_Kegging_By_Paul.htm

Note that in addition to those kegs, you'll need a CO2 tank and regulator, the required disconnects, as well as some sort of serving tap (a cobra tap on the end of 6' of line is enough to get started!) And of course, room in a fridge somewhere to keep it's precious cargo cold!

THANKS>>... huge score I have a source of getting a good deal on Cornys and didn't want to pay the $4 a kit from the LHBS.

I am placing my order now.


-=Jason=-

 

[ganu]

Right quick, I see that both of my kegs are the Coca Cola pin-lock and not ball-lock. (One post has 3 tangs and the other has 2 tangs). Will the above mentioned O-rings work for these type of fittings? Dumb question perhaps, but I didn't even know that there COULD be different types until today.

If not, I've found some little adapter/replacement fittings that ARE ball-type from CorneyKeg.com.

Once again, this site has hooked my up on some good info.

Thanks to all.


G

 

[CharlesB]

All of those McMaster parts work just fine with my pin-lock kegs.

 

[ganu]

All of those McMaster parts work just fine with my pin-lock kegs.

Thanks Chalres. I somehow missed your earlier post ( the one where you explained the same thing). My bad.