So lost it's almost funny

[Nisque]

hello all,

Of all the websites I have seen it's very clear to me that you guys seem to know much more than pretty anyone else out there.

So here's the issue, my first brew and the hell that it's causing me.

Unlike most, I was suckered into purchasing what was apparently quite a cheap brew pack. And by this I mean that there were no hops or anything else in the pack, bar some sludgy stuff in a can and a packet of yeast.

I have followed the instructions, added sugar etc and it's been over a week.

At first all seemed well but now I have taken a hydrometer reading for the past few days and it's all coming up the same at about 10 when my hydrometer says beer should not be bottled until it's at 1.006.

Now I've kept the brew in a cool place, is that a factor?

please help

Nisque

 

[corvax13]

Im quit the noob myself, but I think a little more info is required - what style beer it is, OG, etc.

 

[HoppyDaze]

the sludgy stuff was probably hopped liquid extract. if your hydrometer readings are the same over a few days then your beer is done fermenting and is now bulk conditioning or aging. It is not uncommon to miss your final gravity by a few points; in this case, four points. It looks like your final gravity is 1.010 which a good finishing gravity. What was your original gravity before you pitched the yeast?

 

[Amity]

Do you mean that the hydrometer is showing 1.010 for a few days? If so, then the beer is likely done. I would recommend leaving it in the fermenter for at least two weeks (3 is better!). It seems like you have done pretty well so far!

Mike

 

[Nisque]

The beer is a pilsner, or so it claimed, and I'm so glad that the sludge was indeed something to do with brewing. As opposed to car oil.

The original gravity was something I forgot to take, alongside any due care. I assume it must have changed though, due to the copious amounts of sugar I added at the brewing phase.

So despite the gravity being off, and indicated by the hydrometer that it should not be bottled, you think I'm good to do so?

 

[DRoyLenz]

Bottling at 1.010 is not uncommon at all. It really depends on how big you beer is, and how many unfermentable sugars are in there. My first brews didn't get below 1.009, and this didn't concern me at all.

Like corvax said, provide us with a few more details. What was the OG, what kind of kit was it, do you have the recipe? The trick to figuring out if the beer is "ready" to bottle is if you have two consistent gravity readings over a 3-4 day period.

IMO, I would wait at least 2 weeks (I typically wait 3 weeks) before bottling. This advice is moot, however, until we know more about this particular brew.

 

[homebeerbrewer]

Don't kick yourself for buying the "cheap brew pack". A lot of people start out by buying ingredient kits, and I think it's a great way to get your feet wet. It's also a great way to see if you like brewing. If you decide it isn't for you, at least you didn't spend a lot of money to find out.

As for your first batch, 1.010 isn't too far off the mark. You also need to correct for temperature when taking a reading, so it could be closer than you think. Personally, I'd wait another week or two before bottling. That'll give the yeast some time to clean up.

You said that you kept your brew in a cool place, what is the temperature? An ale should be fermented between 60-70 deg F.

Congrats on your first beer, and welcome to the addiction.

 

[weirdboy]

Don't worry about it. There are a lot of factors that can account for under-attenuation, which is what you seem to be looking at, but the most important thing to keep in mind is that your beer should taste fine at 1.010 even if that's as low as it ever gets.

The most likely cause is that the malt extract was a bit old, or it carmelized a bit when you were boiling it and added some sugars that are difficult for the yeast to break down into alcohol. But again, I would stress that the beer should taste fine in either case so don't worry about it.

I know it's your first brew and you want to get to drinking, but I'd highly recommend just leaving that beer sit in the fermenter for a couple more weeks if you can manage it, before bottling and leaving it in the bottles to carbonate for another 3+ weeks. The extra time will really improve the flavor of the beer.

 

[Nisque]

The temperature is litterally...erm... does "room" help? So depending on the weather really, but it's been pretty steady away at between 16-20 degrees.

The instructions state that it should be ready pilsner ready within 7 days, but it also states that once in the bottle it needs to be left for a further few weeks.

Following the instructions does not seem to be my strong suit. I've taken the slightest ray of hope from the fact that largers etc seem to be brewed in colder climates...no?

final question, could I be any less helpful?

 

[Firstnten]

You had to add additional Sugar? Like table sugar!?!?!? I have read long and hard on this site and thats a new one on me.

 

[imprez25]

Welcome!

It sounds like you purchased a pre-hopped kit that includes the hops already in the can. Some of these make fairly good beer, nothing that will win awards, but good/fresh tasting brews for sure.

You are taking a good step by using your hydrometer. If your hydro readings have remained constant over a period of a few days your fermintation has more than likely stopped. Did you take an original gravity (OG) reading before fermantation began?

Extract brews such as this will sometimes not ferment all the way down to their targeted final gravity, so some fluctuation here is fine. If your reading is 1.010 and your target is 1.006, you are close enough. Though you could let it set for a little longer to see if it drops any more. Actually, I see that you are only 1 week in to the fermentation. I would let it sit for at least 3 weeks to let the brew clear and clean up. Your wait will be well rewarded.

As for keeping the fermentation temps low, you should be fine, as most ale yeast like cooler temps (55-68degrees). Too low and you might start to put those ale yeast to sleep. Any lower and you move in to Lager temps, which require lager yeast and a longer fermentation time.

Overall I say you'll make beer with this batch. It might not be the best beer you have ever tasted, but it will be beer. Learn from this batch and for the next batch move up to at least an extract kit with seeping grains, all malt, and hop additions.

Good luck and and keep brewing!

(I took too long to type, so all of my points were already covered. )

 

[Nisque]

Nah it was brewing sugar, or thats at least what the packet said. Might have been powdered pixie wings, but then again, maybe not...

 

[Nisque]

Cheers Imprez, that's some awsome info buddy.

The yeast was for a pilsner, so my hoping is that the cooler temps that I provided (between 16-20) should be ok. So you reckon leave it be for a few weeks then bottle and leave it again?

Could this be done within the bottle as opposed to the actualy brewing bin?

 

[wildwest450]

You had to add additional Sugar? Like table sugar!?!?!? I have read long and hard on this site and thats a new one on me.

You haven't read long and hard enough.

 

[MikeG]

You are at the most basic of brewing which is fine.

4 main components of beer:
grain (malted barley -> sugar)
water
hops
yeast

Somebody else has mashed the grains for you converting to fermentable sugars as well as adding all the hops and turned it into the syrup you described also known as Liquid Malt Extract. You simply added that, with water and pitched your yeast.

This method will produce beer and some like it though IMO it lacks 'freshness'. Another thing you will see a complaint of is the liquid malt extract causing weird flavors that many (real and/or imagined) do not like. Look for 'extract twang' as a reference.

There is another style of extract called Dry Malt Extract that personally I have always done very well with. The biggest issue for me is the cost, it is higher than the liquid.

If you like brewing and wish to increase the complexity of the brewing process but continue with Extract - a process I did for over a year - there are kits you can buy where you steep some grains, add your own hops along with the extract it's a good next step. I tried the "Brewer's Best American Style Pale Ale" and thought it was very good.

Good luck and welcome to the hobby!

 

[Nisque]

Clearly.

I got stuck, you know reading and stuff. Still once the boulder's rolling, only a fool stands in it's way. And Dag nabbit I want some beer out of this.

 

[homebeerbrewer]

You should cool it down some more since you used a pilsner yeast. It should be between 45-55 deg F (7-12 C).

 

[Nisque]

Cheers all, you've really instilled some confidence that I won't poison myself.

Going to leave it for another week then bottle it up and forget about it for another few weeks. If it's foul then I'll take this as a first step and move forwards.

Once again thanks

 

[imprez25]

It's best to leave the beer in bulk, as you have more yeast to clean up after themselves, plus you will have less sedimate in your bottle if you leave it in your fermentor. What might take 3 weeks to age in bulk might take 3 months in bottles. (time frames are not intended to be used as reference, rather for making the point )

Keep the beer in the fermentor as long as you can, up to about 4-6 weeks. My first two batches I rushed to bottle and rushed to drink, and they weren't that good... at first. The last one of each were the best. That was 6 weeks after I bottled and about 9 weeks after I brewed. I now have three batches that are on pace to be consumed by about week 9 following brewing. It's very difficult to wait.

 

[Nisque]

Cheers Imprez.

So I've had it going for 2 weeks on Friday, you reckon another 1-2 weeks?

 

[imprez25]

yup! Trust us on this.

 

[Homercidal]

You are fine. Many people start with a "Kit and a Kilo".

I'm concerned with the color of your beer. If it claims to be a Pilsner, and looked like oil, then it might be way past it's expiration date, which is "ok", but not preferred.

If the color is just a dark gold, then it's probably just fine.

The preferred method of bottling is to boil a pint of water and 3/4 cup of corn sugar on the stove, and then pour into a bottling bucket. Gently siphon your beer on top of this sugar/water and allow it to swirl gently to mix it up. Then siphon into each bottle.

You could add the sugar directly to each bottle and pour the beer right on top of that, but the bottles have a better chance of carbing unevenly, and the sugar can make the beer foam and it's messier IMO.

A bottling wand is a good idea if you don't have one.

For your next brew, maybe see if you can find the ingredients separately. Might be more expensive, but adding your own hops and all that is more fun, and the extract might be fresher too.

 

[Rick500]

Cheers all, you've really instilled some confidence that I won't poison myself.

Don't worry about that at all. Unless you've added some poison to it, drinking your homebrewed beer is very, very safe. Not only can you not poison yourself, but no organisms that are harmful to humans can live in beer.