So I built my control panel, what do I do next?

[autonomist3k]

I just finished wiring up my control panel and now I'm wondering what I should do next to get this thing running.
It's a simple 120v rims system that controls a pump and element with an Auber pid and rtd probe.
Do I need to calibrate it or set anything up with the pid before trying to fire up the rims tube?

I realize that I don't have the box grounded yet and the main power in cable isn't installed yet either.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502316028.083613.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502316037.346372.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502316046.787420.jpg

Here's the wiring diagram, I got it from another thread on this forum.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502316121.410927.jpg

 

[Addiktion]

Yeah you need to calibrate it. Mine over shot my mash by 10 degrees or so and was still climbing. Kal has good set up instructions on his website however to hit the main points you need to auto tune it. I've been using water for now as I haven't had time to brew. But basically set up your rig for a test run. Once your water temp gets to 142 enter set up mode you hold the button down for a few seconds and then click over to At =3 and change it to At = 2 this will start the auto tune process. My mash temp was 152 by the way. Once it hits 152 your element should fire on and off. As needed. No more long periods of on and off. Check your thermometer with a hand held device to verify your temp settings. If your PID reads one or two degrees different than a calibrated thermometer you'll need to change the the PID either + or - (you should only be maybe one or two degrees off. Mine was almost exact. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[autonomist3k]

Thanks, that clears up a lot of questions I had, I'll try all this and see how it goes.
Are there any settings that I need to change?

 

[doug293cz]

I noticed that you are using a PID rather than the EZBoil that the design is for. You should double check the terminal assignments for your PID as they are probably different than what is shown for the EZBoil. Getting those connections wrong could fry your PID.

Brew on

 

[autonomist3k]

WOW I missed that! Fortunately the only difference is the ssr terminals are 7&8 not 6&7, probably wouldn't have done anything.

Thanks again Doug!

 

[autonomist3k]

So I turned it on for the first time and I'm getting an error message, I checked all my rtd connections and made sure sn was set to 21, looks like I might have a bad sensor or pid.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502425819.524374.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502425875.256015.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1502425896.011775.jpg

Any ideas before I call Auber tomorrow?

 

[doug293cz]

Looks like maybe a bad RTD. If you have an ohmmeter, you can test the RTD. It should measure about 100 ohms between either of the red wires and the white wire, and close to 0 ohms between the two red wires. Any other readings and the RTD is bad. Disconnect the RTD from the PID before trying to measure.

Brew on

 

[Rockn_M]

That's the message I get when I don't have a temp probe plugged in. Check all your connections and solder points. I've had to redo a few to get a better connection. Once resoldered worked perfectly.

 

[doug293cz]

That's the message I get when I don't have a temp probe plugged in. Check all your connections and solder points. I've had to redo a few to get a better connection. Once resoldered worked perfectly.

I'd have mentioned that, but in the photo it appears that the RTD is properly connected. That's why I suspected a problem with the RTD itself.

Brew on

 

[autonomist3k]

I'm going to take a multimeter to all the wires and rtd next before I call Auber, maybe a wire is internally broken or something.

 

[autonomist3k]

Yep, my rtd is bad, there was an open loop between one of the red wires and the white wire, and when I used a jumper between both red wire terminals on the pid it started to read the correct temperature.
Also verified that all the wires are good.

 

[doug293cz]

Glad you found the problem.

Brew on

 

[Addiktion]

An issue I had was using this stupid connectors that come in the DIN rail block kit. Nice kit. It I couldn't crimp them properly and it took me about a week to find the loose wire. I had 120v everywhere and 240v where it should be but the heating element wasn't firing. Then one lonely night with all the lights off in the garage I started flicking the switch on and off and boom. It was like the 4th of July coming out of my contactor. Only way I could even see the spark was it being dark. Pulled those stupid connections out and went bare wire. Works great now. Just thought I'd share my story.

 

[autonomist3k]

Glad you found the problem.

Thanks, me too!
I'm so happy I bought my parts from Auber also, even though it was past their 90 day return date they still said they would do warranty it and fix it for me, amazing customer service, totally worth the extra $$.

 

[autonomist3k]

An issue I had was using this stupid connectors that come in the DIN rail block kit. Nice kit. It I couldn't crimp them properly and it took me about a week to find the loose wire. I had 120v everywhere and 240v where it should be but the heating element wasn't firing. Then one lonely night with all the lights off in the garage I started flicking the switch on and off and boom. It was like the 4th of July coming out of my contactor. Only way I could even see the spark was it being dark. Pulled those stupid connections out and went bare wire. Works great now. Just thought I'd share my story.

Wow that's one way to find the problem haha!