Site tube and thermometer for keggle

[2nd Street Brewery]

I'm looing to add a site tub and termometer to both my boil kettle and my soon to be made HLT. I'm looking at the setup msold by NB.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/weldless.html
part #7563 sorry they don't have individual part pages

Has anyone got any experience with this? It seems awful cheep compared to morebeer's site tubes

http://morebeer.com/search/102318

Does NB's kit include the tube or is it just the fittings?

Also, are 1/8" thermometers standard? None of the ones on thier site give that measurement, all they say is the size of the thread.

Thanks

 

[rdwj]

I got mine at IHS and it looks pretty close to what you're looking at - works great!

 

[Bobby_M]

You have to look close at what you're getting with the kits. Do you want all stainless or are you OK with brass? You want real glass or can you like with polycarb plastic? Will you use a dial thermo with 1/2" MPT or a remote probe?

I'm personally looking at using a sight on all three of my kegs and I'm thinking about having a stainless T welded directly into the keg. I'll put a compression fitting on the top and insert a sacrificed 1/2" racking cane ($3 each). In the front of the T I'm thinking about threading in a 1/2" MPT thermo from Stpats.com

 

[mr x]

I'll put a compression fitting on the top and insert a sacrificed 1/2" racking cane ($3 each).

Be careful with that. Racking canes are brittle plastic and can crack around the ferrules. I'd use teflon/nylon fittings/ferrules if available or consider using poly type or teflon tubing. At the very least, I would never install a sight glass without a shutoff valve, that's really asking for trouble.:rockin:

 

[2nd Street Brewery]

Well looks like I'll call NB today to see what it the kit contains. I just can't tell from the pic and description if the tube itself is inclused or just the fittings. I really want one that is a combo gauge/thermometer since I only want to drill one hole.

 

[menschmaschine]

I bought the Thermosight from Northern Brewer and installed it in all 3 of my kegs. I think they are a great idea, but they were a challenge to install. I have a step drill bit and drilled a perfect hole, but I just couldn't get everything to come together tight enough so it wouldn't leak. I believe they have an inherent flaw in their design where the 'close nipple' gets wider towards the middle... so it makes it impossible to tighten it far enough. The ultimate solution was to put several SS washers on each side until it could tighten enough not to leak. One of mine still drips, but it's just the HLT and I just put a cup under it during brewing.

To answer some of your questions, yes NBs Thermosights come with everything you need including the tube (except extra washers and Teflon tape). They take standard 1/8" probe thermometers, but if I remember correctly I think they can go up to 1/4". I know most everyone here likes digital, but I prefer analog bimetallic thermometers. I use Taylor... they're cheap, reliable, and calibratable. PS... for a1/8" probe thermometer on the Thermosight, I had to wrap the probe where it meets the fitting on the Thermosight with teflon tape to make it leak-proof, but it worked like a charm.

 

[2nd Street Brewery]

I bought the Thermosight from Northern Brewer and installed it in all 3 of my kegs. I think they are a great idea, but they were a challenge to install. I have a step drill bit and drilled a perfect hole, but I just couldn't get everything to come together tight enough so it wouldn't leak. I believe they have an inherent flaw in their design where the 'close nipple' gets wider towards the middle... so it makes it impossible to tighten it far enough. The ultimate solution was to put several SS washers on each side until it could tighten enough not to leak. One of mine still drips, but it's just the HLT and I just put a cup under it during brewing.

To answer some of your questions, yes NBs Thermosights come with everything you need including the tube (except extra washers and Teflon tape). They take standard 1/8" probe thermometers, but if I remember correctly I think they can go up to 1/4". I know most everyone here likes digital, but I prefer analog bimetallic thermometers. I use Taylor... they're cheap, reliable, and calibratable. PS... for a1/8" probe thermometer on the Thermosight, I had to wrap the probe where it meets the fitting on the Thermosight with teflon tape to make it leak-proof, but it worked like a charm.

Thanks mensch, just what I needed to know. Looks like I'll be getting a couple for my rigs. Got 2 Perlicks on order and looking at getting a hopstopper. Man I love getting new toys

 

[mr x]

You guys way want to consider other options than o-rings for sealing your fittings. I use Gore-tex gasket material - best stuff on the planet.

 

[the_bird]

I bought the Thermosight probably six months ago, it's been sitting on the workbench ever since. I want a sight tube, I *need* a sight tube, I just hate putting another hole in the keggle...

 

[Bobby_M]

I know a lot of people use weldless but I've also been reading a lot of problems with them getting a seal and that's why I'm stuck on welding. It's costly on labor, but you do save a bit in materials. Since I know this hole will always be dedicated to the thermometer/sightglass, I don't have any qualms about directly welding the Tee in to the kettle.

 

[FSR402]

I bought the Thermosight from Northern Brewer and installed it in all 3 of my kegs. I think they are a great idea, but they were a challenge to install. I have a step drill bit and drilled a perfect hole, but I just couldn't get everything to come together tight enough so it wouldn't leak. I believe they have an inherent flaw in their design where the 'close nipple' gets wider towards the middle... so it makes it impossible to tighten it far enough. The ultimate solution was to put several SS washers on each side until it could tighten enough not to leak. One of mine still drips, but it's just the HLT and I just put a cup under it during brewing.

To answer some of your questions, yes NBs Thermosights come with everything you need including the tube (except extra washers and Teflon tape). They take standard 1/8" probe thermometers, but if I remember correctly I think they can go up to 1/4". I know most everyone here likes digital, but I prefer analog bimetallic thermometers. I use Taylor... they're cheap, reliable, and calibratable. PS... for a1/8" probe thermometer on the Thermosight, I had to wrap the probe where it meets the fitting on the Thermosight with teflon tape to make it leak-proof, but it worked like a charm.

What I did was go to the hardwear store and picked up a rubber washer. I then put the washer on the outside of the brew pot and the o-ring on the inside. It does not leak at all.

 

[rdwj]

I bought the Thermosight probably six months ago, it's been sitting on the workbench ever since. I want a sight tube, I *need* a sight tube, I just hate putting another hole in the keggle...

Bird - check this out. You can add a shut-off valve to the top of the tube and use it with your current drain port.

 

[the_bird]

I know a lot of people use weldless but I've also been reading a lot of problems with them getting a seal and that's why I'm stuck on welding. It's costly on labor, but you do save a bit in materials. Since I know this hole will always be dedicated to the thermometer/sightglass, I don't have any qualms about directly welding the Tee in to the kettle.

My regular weldless fitting has had no problems. I suspect that lots of people have damaged the o-rings, either by not fully de-burring the hole before hooking up the weldless fitting, or by overtightening.

 

[the_bird]

Bird - check this out. You can add a shut-off valve to the top of the tube and use it with your current drain port.

That's actually a really good idea. Aesthetically, I don't really like the shut-off extending out that far from the keggle, but I guess that's just 'cause I'm insecure...

 

[Bobby_M]

Heh, another reason I plan to weld the Tee right to the keg. Otherwise it's going to be coupling, nipple, tee, thermometer. That's a lot of overhang. Even if you go the orfy route and weld in a nipple, it's still sticking out by at least 6-8". It's even worse if you put a ball valve and barb on there.

If you weld the Tee right in, it's tee, thermo, done.

 

[olllllo]

It you use the T on you sight tube in conjunction with a Thermometer, be aware of this...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=302006&postcount=1

Getting a Thermo with a long probe may solve this, but as we all know motion in the ocean (as posted in the above link) also works.


The next time I have a welding job, I'm going to get a dedicated port welded.

 

[Bobby_M]

Good point. I'm considering the 8" probe. The tees are usually 3" long so 5" into the MLT seems more than enough (pretty close to the center).

 

[Lil' Sparky]

I use those fittings and really like them, except for the way they try and seal the thermometer with rubber o-rings. Take a look at my modification. It works really well. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=28815

 

[Lil' Sparky]

I bought the Thermosight from Northern Brewer and installed it in all 3 of my kegs. I think they are a great idea, but they were a challenge to install. I have a step drill bit and drilled a perfect hole, but I just couldn't get everything to come together tight enough so it wouldn't leak. I believe they have an inherent flaw in their design where the 'close nipple' gets wider towards the middle... so it makes it impossible to tighten it far enough. The ultimate solution was to put several SS washers on each side until it could tighten enough not to leak. One of mine still drips, but it's just the HLT and I just put a cup under it during brewing.

I had a similar problem. The SS nipple that came with mine actually had damaged threads and it wouldn't tighten enough. I just went to Lowes and replaced it with a brass nipple and it worked like a charm. I've found that with all weldless fittings that if you tighten everything up not on the keg, take it apart, and then install it on the keg it's easier to get it tight enough. Cheers.

 

[mr x]

I use those fittings and really like them, except for the way they try and seal the thermometer with rubber o-rings. Take a look at my modification. It works really well. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=28815

Not a bad idea, but you are playing with fire not having a shut-off valve on that sight tube...

I have read a lot of posts about peeps having problems not being able to seal their weldless connections. There is NO reason for these to be leaking, none. If you are having problems with o-rings, get rid of them. Just because they came with the kit, doesn't mean you should use them. This material here is the best:

http://sealsolutions.com/wlgore.html

Gore-tex sheet gasketing can't be beat.

Welding can cause more problems than you think. Warp you threads and you will be re-thinking your decision very quickly.

 

[Bobby_M]

Not a bad idea, but you are playing with fire not having a shut-off valve on that sight tube...

I have read a lot of posts about peeps having problems not being able to seal their weldless connections. There is NO reason for these to be leaking, none. If you are having problems with o-rings, get rid of them. Just because they came with the kit, doesn't mean you should use them. This material here is the best:

http://sealsolutions.com/wlgore.html

Gore-tex sheet gasketing can't be beat.

Welding can cause more problems than you think. Warp you threads and you will be re-thinking your decision very quickly.

Might want to find a competent welder that doesn't overheat everything. If you're really paranoid, you can thread some MPT plugs into the couplings to hold its shape.

 

[mr x]

Overheating to the point of thread warping isn't always avoidable. I have access to some of the best welders I have seen in my travels through industry, and they will tell you that some ideas just have trouble written all over them.

And plugging the female threads can be a worse idea. I've seen that attempted and the plug seized in the fitting. That was a ***** to get out, and the female thread was ruined and had to be cut out.

My point is that there is nothing wrong with the original idea of weldless fittings. Just take the time and effort to do the job right. It seems to me that people are being led to the conclusion that welding the fittings will fix problems that really shouldn't be there in the first place.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Not a bad idea, but you are playing with fire not having a shut-off valve on that sight tube...

Not sure I follow. Care to elaborate?

 

[mr x]

Well, if that sight glass breaks, particularly at the bottom where it is stressed by the ferrule (where it would have a natural tendancy to snap), you are going to have a real mess on your hands.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Meh, I guess it could. The problem is they've been the way they are now for a while, several brew sessions, and there's nothing adding more stress that would cause them to break. I don't think if left alone they'll have a natural tendency to snap. It's actually pretty thick guage plastic tubing, not glass, and I don't think it would break very easily. I guess if I banged it against something it might, but they don't get moved around once I setup the brewery. I don't think it's worth the extra HW. Thanks, though.

 

[FSR402]

Well, if that sight glass breaks, particularly at the bottom where it is stressed by the ferrule (where it would have a natural tendancy to snap), you are going to have a real mess on your hands.

yup, just step back and watch it drain.

 

[mr x]

May not be worth the trouble, but one slip, accident, and you could really be kicking yourself while you are trying to figure out how in the hell to plug that hole. Especially if you are using rigid plastic (ala racking cane), it could have many little cracks around that ferrule where you can't see.....

 

[the_bird]

I think it's a good though. I've got some extra ball values kicking around, can't really think of a downside to intregrating one into the design other than maybe having to buy an extra nipple.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Well, consider this. If you put the ball valve between the pot and the T, then the whole thing sticks out that much further, making it easier to hit on something and you'll have to figure out how to get the eye bolt out that much further. If you put the valve on top of the T, then you've got that much less measuring capability. As it is, mine's already at the edge of usefulness because the liquid is already at ~ 3 gals when you can see it in the sight glass. I'll stick to the way it is. I don't think the risk is very high and not worth the change IMHO. YMMV.

 

[the_bird]

I'll play around with it and see. It'll be easy enough to take apart if I don't like it. Isn't there an issue, too, with having to have the sight tube closed off tightly when draining the keggle so that it'll maintain the siphon? Ball valve would resolve that easily.

 

[Lil' Sparky]

Isn't there an issue, too, with having to have the sight tube closed off tightly when draining the keggle so that it'll maintain the siphon? Ball valve would resolve that easily.

Only if the sight glass is on the drain valve. Mine aren't.

 

[the_bird]

Which, I'm think about doing with mine, so that I don't have to drill another hold and risk a leak (since, thankfully, my weldless fitting works great).

 

[Lil' Sparky]

But then where's the fitting for your thermo going to go?

BTW, these small fittings were easier to get to seal than the big ones.

 

[FSR402]

I'll play around with it and see. It'll be easy enough to take apart if I don't like it. Isn't there an issue, too, with having to have the sight tube closed off tightly when draining the keggle so that it'll maintain the siphon? Ball valve would resolve that easily.

Only if you have it on the same port as your drain. I would just put another port in.

 

[mr x]

Well, consider this. If you put the ball valve between the pot and the T, then the whole thing sticks out that much further, making it easier to hit on something and you'll have to figure out how to get the eye bolt out that much further. If you put the valve on top of the T, then you've got that much less measuring capability. As it is, mine's already at the edge of usefulness because the liquid is already at ~ 3 gals when you can see it in the sight glass. I'll stick to the way it is. I don't think the risk is very high and not worth the change IMHO. YMMV.

You could always turn the tee sideways to get a better range. Actually, looking at your pic, you could even turn the tee upside down and come back around 180 and still have your shut off valve.

I know it's beating a subject to death, but I have the experience of dealing with a sight glass breaking on a steam flash tank. Not fun when the 30 year old shut-off won't shut. You look at those items quite different after a bad experience.:rockin:

 

[Grimsawyer]

What is everyone's thought on adding another hole to a keg for a sight glass instead of incorperating it into another weldless fitting?