Single Tier 304 SS Brutus 10 Type System

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Spreadhead

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I have decided to sell my Brutus 10 (stainless steel) system. I purchased this system from a well-known HBT member who ultimately went pro.

This single tier was constructed above and beyond the standard Brutus 10. It started with 0.083" wall thickness 304 SS (great balance of mass/durability) 2" x 2" box, cut and machine faced every weld surface with a Bridgeport mill to near perfect tolerances (+/- 0.002"). Frame parts were then taken to a welder with 40+ years experience in the fabrication business. Bottom line is the frame is top notch.

All top level parts were spec'd for the build, including all Swagelok valves and QD's. There are over $1k in valves alone on the frame, and over $1K in QD's as well. The solenoids are ASCO propane specific (any fuel gas, so they will work with NG, but you would need to drill out the burner tips). These work far better than the water/general use one spec'd in the BYO Brutus 10 build list. The cheap ones get gummed up and need to be serviced often, and never work the same, even after servicing. The actual propane ones do not and will last for years and years.

This is a serious system for serious homebrewers. The previous owner won the BOS at the New Mexico State Fair multiple years with this system, and medaled in both the MCAB and NHC finals with this system. I medaled in several homebrew competitions in Texas with this system. It makes great wort for sure.

I will include everything you need to get going, even a propane tank and regulator. All you need is 120V power at your house. I am including 2 x 15 gallon Blichmann Boilermakers (one for HLT, one for MT), and a 20 gallon Boilermaker boil kettle. Also included is a 15 gallon Spike boil kettle I use for 6 gallon batches (custom hop screen and whirlpool arm included). I have brewed close to 20 gallon batches of lower gravity beers on this setup, as well as 13 gallon batches of high gravity beers. There is a false bottom for both the 15 and 20 gallon Boilermaker so you have lots of options. Also included are the Therminator, two onboard March pumps with custom SS heads and the larger 815 impellers, and 2 sets of hoses and a custom machined rack to hang them in your brewing space. The braided silicone hoses were platinum cured medical grade and were $13 a foot, but they are so much better than the regular silicone hoses (which I will include as well). The regular silicone tubes form pinholes over time at the junction where the tubing meets the barb fitting. I still keep a set on hand just in case I want to try something crazy like an ice bath recirc.

There is over $8K in this setup. All yours for $3500, which is a great deal considering all the time and money in this. I am open to discussing delivery to anyone in TX. When I bought it, we met up at Jester King brewery in Austin and had a nice day out of the exchange. It currenly lives in Cat Spring, TX (1 hour west of Houston). Please hit me up if you have any questions. I realize this is more than most homebrewers will ever pay for a system. But like I said, this is a serious setup for serious brewers. There are more elaborate systems out there. But mine is a workhorse capable of making perfect wort repeatedly, as well as a work of art. This is much nicer than what you could have with a Morebeer Brewsculpture, as there is no skimping on hardware like they do.

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I may be interested but I currently live in Ohio however will be moving to Texas this summer.

How do you control the boil kettle, assuming it’s just regulator controlled vs. using the PID?
 
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Spreadhead

Spreadhead

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I may be interested but I currently live in Ohio however will be moving to Texas this summer.

How do you control the boil kettle, assuming it’s just regulator controlled vs. using the PID?
The boil kettle burner is only burner that is strictly regulator controlled. Love controllers / Asco valves / pilot lights control the HLT and MT burners.
 
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