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Here is some pictures of my all electric rig. It is still a work in progress. Picture is of the controller and the boil kettle. I'll add more pics later.

Controller_1.JPG

Brew Controller with PLC and 3 SSR's and pump control.

Boil_Kettle_with_element.jpg

Boil Kettle

I've done a couple extract batches in it until I finish the rest of it. Hopefully by the end of April I will have a few all grain batches done.
 
68 F250 454 powered for me. This a FE 454 no chebbie here I learned on them as a kid in HS. 520" FE MPI is next, past the million mile mark in the 69 F250 years ago installed two engines after the factory new 390 got tired.
 
My all SS (down to the last screw and nut) Brutus "20".

*9000W Blichman Boil Kettle

*9000W RIMS heater

*15G Blichman MLT with "AutoSparge"

*(2) LG 3-MD-HC pumps

*BCS wireless control (is it catching on!)

*"The Brain", a 12" x 12" x 6" self contained control box that controls all brew functions, processes and temperatures. It contains 10 SSRs, 8 heatsinks, distribution block, grounding bar and fuses. Also houses the BCS 460 web based controller as well as the wireless bridge to provide wireless control. Utilizes a 105 CFM 220VAC muffin fan for ventilation.

I give you, DIGIBREW...

In testing (ran all components on test stand before mounting to SS stand) it has been found to bring 12 gallons of 50F water to a rolling boil in 33 minutes! The LG pumps will pump through the current plumbing configuration at a rate of approx. 6 gallons/min.









 
Still have to run the wires into the water tight fittings, maybe another week or so before I am Sous Vide cooking with it, maybe a month before I brew on it.

Finished the fabrication today, just a couple wires to send through the fittings.

There is a custom graphic that does go across the front, plus some custom warning labels for high voltage, hot kettles and such, to keep those who can read, safe. Those who cannot, have other issues. ;)

As for the brass fitting, unfortunately that is part of the BCS thermistor.

The stand would have been over $1k, but I had a friend help me out with it and he kept it in the $200 range. Otherwise it was going to be mild steel and a powder coat.
 
sophiawinford.jpg

Sorry I don't know how to resize


Anyone have opinions on gas / propane manifold placement? for convenience this one looks about perfect but I am concerned with the heat in that area (I will be using 3 banjo burners).....thoughts / suggestions?

Thanks
Vince
 
Anyone have opinions on gas / propane manifold placement? for convenience this one looks about perfect but I am concerned with the heat in that area (I will be using 3 banjo burners).....thoughts / suggestions?

I think it is doable if planned well... but if not planned well I think it's a bad idea :).

If you're not doing a gas beam it should be pretty simple to do a trial run after you get your stand constructed and see how hot it gets. If it gets super hot just move it down. It's not like you're manipulating those valves really often anyhow.
 
Anyone have opinions on gas / propane manifold placement? for convenience this one looks about perfect but I am concerned with the heat in that area (I will be using 3 banjo burners).....thoughts / suggestions?

Thanks
Vince

I would add heat shields around those burners, keep an eye on the flame preventing it from backing up below the shields or going beyond the keg skirts. You would need holes or a gap above these shields to not cause the flame to be trapped in a pocket this would blow back into the burners knocking out the flame itself. Like a propane torch when heating in a corner or pocket the blowback knocks the flame out. A hot gas line is not a worry as there's no oxygen to combust within the line, maybe a half round heat shield 12" in diameter behind each gas valve to protect the valves and plastic handles. BTY, where did you get those casters, rather slick large diameter for easy rolling over uneven cement? Looks like MoPar green like the Crazy Grape they had years ago a clean sharp looking rig.
One question, any pump priming problems with having the inlet and outlet on the bottom od the pump vs rotating it 180 degrees to remove the air pocket?
 
I would add heat shields around those burners, keep an eye on the flame preventing it from backing up below the shields or going beyond the keg skirts. You would need holes or a gap above these shields to not cause the flame to be trapped in a pocket this would blow back into the burners knocking out the flame itself. Like a propane torch when heating in a corner or pocket the blowback knocks the flame out. A hot gas line is not a worry as there's no oxygen to combust within the line, maybe a half round heat shield 12" in diameter behind each gas valve to protect the valves and plastic handles. BTY, where did you get those casters, rather slick large diameter for easy rolling over uneven cement? Looks like MoPar green like the Crazy Grape they had years ago a clean sharp looking rig.
One question, any pump priming problems with having the inlet and outlet on the bottom od the pump vs rotating it 180 degrees to remove the air pocket?

thats not my rig....it's this guys:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/#post460202
 
okay so I have been brewing for over 20 years and have been on hiatus for around 5..(divorce...new house etc...) and now I decide to go to a homebrew meeting 2 months ago at Iron Hill, Maple Shade NJ (this is a brand new club).....these guys got my brewing juices flowing...especially now with the bulk group buys for hops and grain, yeast from local breweries....natural gas instead of propane.....brewing has gotten extremely economical.... 2 months later and I have this in my garage. The frame was welded by the brother of one of the guys in the club, very reasonable prices too if anyone interested (south NJ area):

stand1.jpg


stand2.jpg


stand3.jpg


stand4.jpg


stand5.jpg


I have the stand designed on google sketchup so I'll post the file later
 

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