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jwill911

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Well not the whole thing, but this is the first time I've had four kegs in my kegerator. But I only have three taps :-(. Temp shows 45 degrees, just put an ambient temp keg in. I'll drop it to cold crash the lager.
 

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OleBrewing

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Not sure I have posted. Garage fridge goin on 8 years used for 150$. Finally got the co2 tank on the outside with distribution block.
 

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mhedman

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Wow! I hadn't hopped on in a while because. well, some life happened. And so thanks for the replies and being an inspiration.

As for the interior. I'm actually not happy with it at the moment. I bought some spray interior, rustolium for appliances, thinking it would be perfect:

Do not recommend inside the keezer. I'm not sure if it's the humidity (just added a dehumidifier and fan) but it flakes off to the wipe. It maybe that the keezer walls get way too cold, and makes it brittle or I didn't have it sanded down enough, so it couldn't bind to the silver lining in the keezer.

And since it was spray, even though it claimed to be epoxy (i was thinking it would be thick like garage floor liner), it was a super thin layer.

I may repaint it with black again, but with a brush and real epoxy tinted paint or something.

Yes! I love the digital temp! It was easy to hook up, and I like it better than the normal inkbird controller. The only downside to this inkbird controller is that it does not have wifi like my other one does.


I'm glad it was helpful!
 

AlexKay

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Nitro keezer:



Hard to see the etching on the tap handles in this light. The taps are labeled &, %, and @. I’m already using numbers for keezer #1 and letters for keezer #2.

96183A2F-BF9D-4036-B387-88349ED440AC.jpeg


Inside is bog-standard, EVA + Duotight. Manifold for beer gas, secondary for CO2 for initial carbonation:

AF95D46E-902E-43AF-B3D4-CC1CD2AFF84B.jpeg


The kegs sit on a shelf, stood off a few inches from the freezer bottom, with 2 fans blowing to circulate air:

27A915D2-7D39-4143-ADD7-F7FB6879CDC2.jpeg
 

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Yesfan

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Nitro keezer:



Hard to see the etching on the tap handles in this light. The taps are labeled &, %, and @. I’m already using numbers for keezer #1 and letters for keezer #2.

View attachment 774569

Inside is bog-standard, EVA + Duotight. Manifold for beer gas, secondary for CO2 for initial carbonation:

View attachment 774570

The kegs sit on a shelf, stood off a few inches from the freezer bottom, with 2 fans blowing to circulate air:

View attachment 774571



Did you etch those handles yourself? Pretty slick looking keezer!
 

Yesfan

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Thanks! Yes, I used stencils and salt-water etching with an AC/DC power supply. (DC removes metal, AC turns the surface black.)


I did the battery charger trick when I did my mash tun. My numbers were chalky white. I didn't know AC would make the numbers black. Any particular supply you used? I may go that route and redo my MLT and some other projects.
 

AlexKay

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I did the battery charger trick when I did my mash tun. My numbers were chalky white. I didn't know AC would make the numbers black. Any particular supply you used? I may go that route and redo my MLT and some other projects.
I just used an AC wall wart (I think it was 12 VAC). I did the standard stuff to get DC (diode bridge, capacitor, voltage regulator), but just used the AC as-is.
 

Yesfan

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I just used an AC wall wart (I think it was 12 VAC). I did the standard stuff to get DC (diode bridge, capacitor, voltage regulator), but just used the AC as-is.


Pardon my ignorance, but can you dumb it down more? I think the "AC as is" is throwing me off.


I had a DC battery charger I used when I did mine. It was just a matter of the black (-) connection to the kettle and the red (+) connection to a Q-tip in some vinegar/salt solution. Mine is still pretty legible, but I like the black much better like what's on my Spike kettles.
 

AlexKay

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Pardon my ignorance, but can you dumb it down more? I think the "AC as is" is throwing me off.


I had a DC battery charger I used when I did mine. It was just a matter of the black (-) connection to the kettle and the red (+) connection to a Q-tip in some vinegar/salt solution. Mine is still pretty legible, but I like the black much better like what's on my Spike kettles.
Sorry! Most of the plug-into-the-wall transformers will both bring the wall voltage down and convert AC to DC. There are some that lower the voltage but keep it AC. I used something like this:
https://www.newark.com/triad-magnetics/wau12-1000/adaptor-ac-ac-120v-12v-1a/dp/96M0296
One connection to the metal part, one to a Q-tip, just as before. I didn't use vinegar, just salt, but I bet it works both ways.
 

earachemyeye69

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Any suggestions on where to mount a distribution manifold inside the fridge?
I added a third tap and decided to clean up the CO2 lines and regulate each line individually.

Could definitely downsize the mounting plate.
 

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Yesfan

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Sorry! Most of the plug-into-the-wall transformers will both bring the wall voltage down and convert AC to DC. There are some that lower the voltage but keep it AC. I used something like this:
https://www.newark.com/triad-magnetics/wau12-1000/adaptor-ac-ac-120v-12v-1a/dp/96M0296
One connection to the metal part, one to a Q-tip, just as before. I didn't use vinegar, just salt, but I bet it works both ways.
So, if it keeps it AC, just cut the plug off and split the wiring to the Q-tip and metal part? Seems easy enough. I may look around for some old wall warts that can work. Thanks!
 

Yesfan

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I plan on going (hoping I can go?) this route with mine. I have the Komos so was wondering what would be the best way to mount the distributor to the door without it falling off? I plan on mounting a 4 port distributor and one secondary regulator for force carbing, so weight wise I hope it's easier.

What I like about the Komos is the back has carb caps, so the openings are completely closed off. This is great as I don't have to open the door for a gas connection for bottling or having to use the main tank if the spare is out.
 

sibelman

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I plan on going (hoping I can go?) this route with mine. I have the Komos so was wondering what would be the best way to mount the distributor to the door without it falling off? I plan on mounting a 4 port distributor and one secondary regulator for force carbing, so weight wise I hope it's easier.

What I like about the Komos is the back has carb caps, so the openings are completely closed off. This is great as I don't have to open the door for a gas connection for bottling or having to use the main tank if the spare is out.
I used 8 short fat (#10?) sheet metal screws through the door's inner steel panel. I was worried about the weight of the quad secondary Taprite, but it's been rock solid. Kegco commercial, not Komos: ymmv.

Yes, external CO2 tank gives more flexibility.
IMG_20220712_124728463_HDR.jpg
 

grampamark

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The quick ‘n’ dirty keezer is now a bit more sophisticated. What started out, about a month ago, as a 5 cu ft freezer, a keg, a C02 bottle and regulator and a picnic tap now has 2 kegs, a gas manifold, and Intertap faucets in a box on the lid. Oh, and a drip tray. A quick ‘n’ dirty drip tray. Two cheese graters from the Dollar Store with the handles cut off and the graters pop riveted together and crimped into a shallow pan I bent up out of a scrap of galvanized sheet metal. Held in place with a bunch of little round magnets. Classy. :cool:
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