- Joined
- Mar 12, 2021
- Messages
- 128
- Reaction score
- 407
That's a great idea.View attachment 771382
Didn’t like the ugly white so I covered it with vinyl wallpaper.
Nitro keezer:
Hard to see the etching on the tap handles in this light. The taps are labeled &, %, and @. I’m already using numbers for keezer #1 and letters for keezer #2.
View attachment 774569
Inside is bog-standard, EVA + Duotight. Manifold for beer gas, secondary for CO2 for initial carbonation:
View attachment 774570
The kegs sit on a shelf, stood off a few inches from the freezer bottom, with 2 fans blowing to circulate air:
View attachment 774571
Thanks! Yes, I used stencils and salt-water etching with an AC/DC power supply. (DC removes metal, AC turns the surface black.)Did you etch those handles yourself? Pretty slick looking keezer!
Thanks! Yes, I used stencils and salt-water etching with an AC/DC power supply. (DC removes metal, AC turns the surface black.)
I just used an AC wall wart (I think it was 12 VAC). I did the standard stuff to get DC (diode bridge, capacitor, voltage regulator), but just used the AC as-is.I did the battery charger trick when I did my mash tun. My numbers were chalky white. I didn't know AC would make the numbers black. Any particular supply you used? I may go that route and redo my MLT and some other projects.
I just used an AC wall wart (I think it was 12 VAC). I did the standard stuff to get DC (diode bridge, capacitor, voltage regulator), but just used the AC as-is.
Sorry! Most of the plug-into-the-wall transformers will both bring the wall voltage down and convert AC to DC. There are some that lower the voltage but keep it AC. I used something like this:Pardon my ignorance, but can you dumb it down more? I think the "AC as is" is throwing me off.
I had a DC battery charger I used when I did mine. It was just a matter of the black (-) connection to the kettle and the red (+) connection to a Q-tip in some vinegar/salt solution. Mine is still pretty legible, but I like the black much better like what's on my Spike kettles.
So, if it keeps it AC, just cut the plug off and split the wiring to the Q-tip and metal part? Seems easy enough. I may look around for some old wall warts that can work. Thanks!Sorry! Most of the plug-into-the-wall transformers will both bring the wall voltage down and convert AC to DC. There are some that lower the voltage but keep it AC. I used something like this:
https://www.newark.com/triad-magnetics/wau12-1000/adaptor-ac-ac-120v-12v-1a/dp/96M0296
One connection to the metal part, one to a Q-tip, just as before. I didn't use vinegar, just salt, but I bet it works both ways.
Consider the door View attachment 774654
I used 8 short fat (#10?) sheet metal screws through the door's inner steel panel. I was worried about the weight of the quad secondary Taprite, but it's been rock solid. Kegco commercial, not Komos: ymmv.I plan on going (hoping I can go?) this route with mine. I have the Komos so was wondering what would be the best way to mount the distributor to the door without it falling off? I plan on mounting a 4 port distributor and one secondary regulator for force carbing, so weight wise I hope it's easier.
What I like about the Komos is the back has carb caps, so the openings are completely closed off. This is great as I don't have to open the door for a gas connection for bottling or having to use the main tank if the spare is out.
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