Session IPA / Input Please

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SailorJerry

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Alright, here is what I came up with. I'm not sure what you consider "session", but most that I see are sub 5% ABV, which this is. Just wanting opinions or ideas/updates to the recipe.

HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: CG Session IPA
Author: SailorJerry

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.072
Efficiency: 35% (steeping grains only)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.043
Final Gravity: 1.008
ABV (standard): 4.59%
IBU (tinseth): 41.15
SRM (morey): 5.39

FERMENTABLES:
5 lb - Dry Malt Extract - Extra Light (90.9%)

STEEPING GRAINS:
0.5 lb - American - Caramel / Crystal 40L (9.1%)

HOPS:
1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 34.31
1 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 6.84
2 oz - Citra, Type: Pellet, AA: 11, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days
2 oz - Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14.25, Use: Dry Hop for 4 days

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 81%
Flocculation: Medium
Optimum Temp: 54 - 77 F
Fermentation Temp: 65 F


Generated by Brewer's Friend - https://www.brewersfriend.com/
Date: 2017-08-01 16:35 UTC
Recipe Last Updated: 2017-08-01 16:35 UTC
 
Change the 60 min to FO- wasting Citra at 60. For bittering use Warrior or Magnum if you have it. CTZ would be good to at 60.
 
IMO Anything under 1.050 for an IPA is weak and watery like.
You can make a very drinkable IPA around 1.055 that will be more like what its supposed to be...a beer with body...your not making a light lager...just my opinion
 
IMO Anything under 1.050 for an IPA is weak and watery like.
You can make a very drinkable IPA around 1.055 that will be more like what its supposed to be...a beer with body...your not making a light lager...just my opinion

If I up my DME to 6#, it gets me to 1.052, which seems like it should be sufficient. Or, what other route do I have to go, in your mind (honestly asking), to keep it sub 5% and get the beer to have some body
 
So, if I up DME to 6#, 60 minute Magnum hop, move the 60 min Citra to a whirlpool with another added ounce of Galaxy, then 2 oz of each Citra and Galaxy as a 4 day dry hop.

Gets me to 79 ibu's, but I think it's adding some of the whirlpool hops (I think that's what I want to select, thinking when it gets cooled to 170, add the hops, let stand for awhile, then continue cooling) and 1.052 OG, 1.010 FG for 5.48% abv
 
Or, do you have any recommendations on the malt I'm adding? We've been wanting to try BIAB, just haven't taken the step yet...
 
I like most session ipas better than full body ipas. If you like sessions ipas as much as me then it was fine as a 4.5%. I just love hops and not so much malty/bitter ales that are labeled "ipas" so if that's the case sure leave it sub 5% and add the extra hops! Lol
 
I am seeing a few things that get my attention

1) Low FG with a low ABV and 41 IBU. May present more bitter than anything else - be careful.
2) Low ABV and low FG. Could be very watery.
2) 60 min addition - why? Session needs more flavor than bitter. Move the addition to 30.
4) Ever use maltodextrine? Raise FG without fermentable sugar and improve body (late addition - about 1/2 lb should do the trick)
 
Or, do you have any recommendations on the malt I'm adding? We've been wanting to try BIAB, just haven't taken the step yet...
Just go BIAB then. Its so easy. A 10 gallon Concord pot on ebay will last a lifetime and are cheap. A propane heater...cheap. And a Wilserbag. That's it...Then you can make any recipe from the database. Youd be surprised how much cheaper all grain is than extract. In less than a week and probably $150 youll be doing all grain :ban:
 
I'm assuming Citra is probably a waste as a bittering hop, any recommendations there?

Just my opinion, but CO2 based hop extracts are the way to go in lieu of actual hops at the beginning of your boil.

I am using CO2 based CTZ extracts from Yakima Valley with great success and satisfaction. I get smooth hop bitterness and no vegetal matter in the boil reducing hop trub to deal with later on.

Most...if not all of the hop's flavors and aromas will be boiled off when added at 60 minutes for bittering. The only benefit is bittering which the extract (hop shots) do beautifully.
 
Just go BIAB then. Its so easy. A 10 gallon Concord pot on ebay will last a lifetime and are cheap. A propane heater...cheap. And a Wilserbag. That's it...Then you can make any recipe from the database. Youd be surprised how much cheaper all grain is than extract. In less than a week and probably $150 youll be doing all grain :ban:

I've got a 10 gallon pot already, and we use a propane heater already as well.
 
Just my opinion, but CO2 based hop extracts are the way to go in lieu of actual hops at the beginning of your boil.

I am using CO2 based CTZ extracts from Yakima Valley with great success and satisfaction. I get smooth hop bitterness and no vegetal matter in the boil reducing hop trub to deal with later on.

Most...if not all of the hop's flavors and aromas will be boiled off when added at 60 minutes for bittering. The only benefit is bittering which the extract (hop shots) do beautifully.

Like this
http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/Hop_Extract_10mL_Hop_Shot_p/extracthopshot10ml.htm
?

Never used them before.
To the guy talking about the unfermentable to add to bring up the FG a bit, I've never tried that, but I'm not against it, which is why I wanted input.

So, thank you everyone so far. We might just take the small step of ordering a BIAB bag and go that route too, which means I'd need to update this recipe, and I have no idea how to formulate all grain recipes :)
 
Like this
http://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/Hop_Extract_10mL_Hop_Shot_p/extracthopshot10ml.htm
?

Never used them before.
To the guy talking about the unfermentable to add to bring up the FG a bit, I've never tried that, but I'm not against it, which is why I wanted input.

So, thank you everyone so far. We might just take the small step of ordering a BIAB bag and go that route too, which means I'd need to update this recipe, and I have no idea how to formulate all grain recipes :)


Yes, this is the CO2 hop extract I use. Shifting to BIAB and going AG will be a great move forward for you.
 
So, you'd use 2 Row for the grain? I know 0 about BIAB/All Grain

There are tons of great recipes listed here on HBT. You'll need a few basic BIAB instructions which you can find here by searching. Your local home brew store typically grinds the grains they sell, plus they can help you put a recipe together if you take the ingredient list to them.
 
There are tons of great recipes listed here on HBT. You'll need a few basic BIAB instructions which you can find here by searching. Your local home brew store typically grinds the grains they sell, plus they can help you put a recipe together if you take the ingredient list to them.

Ha! The most local home brew store would be two hours away. I'm in super rural Iowa these days, so there isn't much that's "local".

I've read up on BIAB, and we'd be relying on whoever we order grains from the grind them for us to start. I've read up on having your water a few degrees higher than you want to mash in at, and the degree range for mash temp (not sure what the differences are, but I know there is some between mashing in higher on the range vs lower).

We just need to stop being sissies and do it.
 
Ha! The most local home brew store would be two hours away. I'm in super rural Iowa these days, so there isn't much that's "local".

I've read up on BIAB, and we'd be relying on whoever we order grains from the grind them for us to start. I've read up on having your water a few degrees higher than you want to mash in at, and the degree range for mash temp (not sure what the differences are, but I know there is some between mashing in higher on the range vs lower).

We just need to stop being sissies and do it.

Most online suppliers offer to grind the grains for you. If you ever want to expand your process, grain mills powered by your own hand drill can start around $100. But I'd invest in a wilserbag, a nice kettle and a decent burner first off.

Each brewer's system may be a bit different, plus weather (your temps) factors in...but you'll want your water (strike water) to be a few degrees warmer than your mash temp goals. Adding in the grains drops the temps several degrees. I heat my strike water to say 154F, stir in the grains and this usually settles me in at 150F. YMMV. I cover the kettle with a mover's blanket and let it ride on out for 60 minutes. Maybe I'll stir once at 30 min.

All of this is easily researched and the process is quite simple. It seems like a lot at first, but once you do it a time or three, it becomes second nature.

Like you say......"Just Do It!!!" LOL, you'll never look back.
 
There's plenty of calculators for calculating strike water and temp. Check out brewers friend.com or I think another is brew365.com or something. Just google strike water calculator. Also brewers friend has a recipe designer on the website. I find that handy
 
I'm experimenting a bit with something similar for summer, I've got something pretty good using:

3KG Maris Otter (65%)
1.75KG Pilsner (30%)
250g Torrified (5%)
40G Target (at 60)
100G Saaz (split 10, 5, 0)

For a 23L batch

I've used US-05 but I suspect there are alternatives which might be worth trying - so looking for alternatives at the moment

The Pils has been useful to get the colour lighter and the Torrified has given it a good head - it's a really drinkable beer
 
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