Second 1 Gal Batch with Loads of Honey

[gotpants]

So I decided to use a load of honey on my second batch of mead, and I now realize that means I'll have a difficult time with my yeast?

-6lbs honey
-1Gal water
-1pkt Lalvin D47 yeast
-1tsp Nutrient
-1/2tsp Energizer
It's also fermenting in a 2gal bucket.

My OG came up at 1.170 and I pitched the yeast at 75 degrees. It's been all put together and sitting for about 55 hours. I haven't seen anything happen yet (as far as the airlock bubbling), but when I opened it (in order to reseal it incase it wasn't sealed all the way) it had a nose-burning alcohol smell that nearly knocked me on my ass.

I'm concerned that I may have underpitched the yeast since I added so much honey, but I also don't want to overpitch either. I was thinking I'd just leave it for another day or so and then check the gravity to see if there are any changes.

I also have a packet of Lalvin 71B-1122 yeast that I was thinking I'd maybe add if the gravity hasn't moved or stops moving. Bad idea?

Any advice on how to make this honey-rich ferment go well?

 

[kristiismean]

It's mead. Don't open it, leave it alone.

Lavlin D47 is good for 14% and if you pitched a full packet, then you are fine. 6 lbs is well over 14 so it will be a sweet mead.

i am no expert on mead., but I know to pitch, put it in a corner, come back in 2 months to make sure the airlock still has alcohol/sanitizer in it and then go away for another month.

 

[bmwr75]

Use your hydrometer to see what is going on with the ferment.

The "leave it alone" approach is not a best practice. Read the last two articles at this link to get up to speed on current mead making best practices: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/category/articles/

1.170 is a very high starting gravity, but only your hydrometer will tell you if your yeast overcame this difficult start. If no, just remove some of the must and replace it with water to get the SG down, then repitch the yeast.

 

[gotpants]

Repitch with the same yeast or with the packet of 71B?

 

[HB_in_Subic]

Either yeast will work, just work on keeping the temps down to help avoid fusels. Also, do daily stirrings to release CO2 and reintroduce O2 into the must. bmwr75 is spot on in pointing you to Bray's site. Lots of good info on the nutrition additions and intervals. Bear in mind that you are using wine yeast vs ale yeast as Bray uses. So it may take a minimum of 6 months before it will be drinkable.

 

[gotpants]

Mm... Fusels?
Also, opened it up again last night to stir it and check the gravity (which hasn't changed) but it is bubbling. I'm keeping the room it's in as cold as I can (around 69). But if it's visibly bubbling that means the yeast is doing its yeasty thing, yeah?

So, open it and stir it daily and check the gravity? If the gravity stalls out or continues to not change, then repitch the yeast?

(Also, gonna check out that article as soon as I'm on an actual computer.)

 

[Maylar]

That much sugar is going to be a problem. Your yeast will likely go into osmotic shock and the ferment will either stall or never start at all. I would dilute that to 1.130 and try again.

 

[Beek]

Yeah when I make a batch that is big like that I try to start a bit lower and add honey as the yeast is working. Like on day two add a bit, and day four, and so on. Also probably what knocked you on your ass is CO2. It happens to me when I open my fermentation chamber sometimes. Makes me cough for like five minutes. The "leave it alone" approach is an old one. I degas for a week after pitching and add nutrients on day 1,2,3 and 6. Definitely not leaving it alone. That way when everyone else has transferred to secondary and they are waiting a few more months, I'm already drinking it.

 

[Dr_Floyd]

Yeah when I make a batch that is big like that I try to start a bit lower and add honey as the yeast is working. Like on day two add a bit, and day four, and so on. Also probably what knocked you on your ass is CO2. It happens to me when I open my fermentation chamber sometimes. Makes me cough for like five minutes. The "leave it alone" approach is an old one. I degas for a week after pitching and add nutrients on day 1,2,3 and 6. Definitely not leaving it alone. That way when everyone else has transferred to secondary and they are waiting a few more months, I'm already drinking it.

I definitely second this, step feeding the honey is a much safer way to get that Sweet Mead without stressing/killing your fermentation. I'm also a firm believer in not back sweetening and trying to get your Mead to land where you want it by the time it's done fermenting. I think the raw honey doesn't taste nearly as good as when the yeast have had a chance to process the honey a little.

Also, I think the "leave it alone" approach isn't an edict like most people make it out to be. It's a good rule to keep in mind so you don't **** with the batch to the point where you **** it up and wast your money and the bee's time. There is no mystery here, we know how the process works. Yeast is a living organism that needs certain things to live and if you don't have those things then waiting isn't going to help them. They will be dead or very unhappy, unhappy yeast can still make an alcoholic beverage but you'll be waiting 2 years for it to age the terrible flavors out.

So sit down, go over your steps and come up with a list of likely problems and the solutions then try one. Based on your recipe it sounds like you just need some more water and maybe to repitch some yeast.

 

[gotpants]

Well, My question now is: since it's visibly bubbling, do I need to dilute and repitch, or could I continue checking the gravity until I see signs of a problem and then dilute and repitch?

Right now it's going alright. I stirred it this morning and it is very much active. I do worry a bit about stressing the yeast, but I'm also unsure of how to determine if the yeast is stressed. Nothing about it at this point looks, smells, or reads (on the hydrometer) bad.

 

[oldmate]

Mm... Fusels?
Also, opened it up again last night to stir it and check the gravity (which hasn't changed) but it is bubbling. I'm keeping the room it's in as cold as I can (around 69). But if it's visibly bubbling that means the yeast is doing its yeasty thing, yeah?

Fusel alcohols are an undesirable by-product of fermentation and occur in greater concentrations when the yeast are stressed - whether it be temperature, nitrogen availability or pH. Includes methanol, isopropanol and a range of other amyl alcohols and usually identified as a 'hot' or 'harsh' tasting product that will give you the world's worst hangover.

Right now it's going alright. I stirred it this morning and it is very much active. I do worry a bit about stressing the yeast, but I'm also unsure of how to determine if the yeast is stressed. Nothing about it at this point looks, smells, or reads (on the hydrometer) bad. \

As for these concerns, follow the instructions posted above on staggered nutrient addition, degassing and sanitising and you should be fine.

 

[bmwr75]

You questions can only be answered if you measure the SG everyday with your hydrometer. If the SG is dropping everyday, it is fermenting. If it is not, you have a problem, but I'd not get too concerned until you have 2 or 3 days of consistent SG readings.

 

[normonster]

..... 1.170 ...

Schwing! That number is exciting.

 

[Maylar]

IMO the chances are good that your ferment will stall and you'll end up with a very sweet mead. D47 doesn't do well in high gravity ferments. Even if the yeast goes to it's rated 14% ABV you'll still end up with like 1.060 worth of sugar. Personally, I'd be diluting it now before the yeast gets stressed.
Good luck.

 

[T_Baggins]

you could always throw some EC-1118 in there...:rockin:

 

[gotpants]

So the ferment is going very slowly (no surprise there) so I was going to add either the 71b or the ec1118, but I'm not sure if it's reasonable to add the entire packet or some other lower quantity.

Not that I'm super worried of it turning out dry after addin so much honey, but I'd rather not wind up with a dry mead, so would adding an entire packet of either of those result in a dry finish?

Last question: which yeast would be better in this situation? 71b or ec1118? The d47 that I had in there originally is still going, I just wanna help it along.

 

[Maylar]

A full packet of EC1118, rehydrated and preferably with GoFerm would be the best chance of success. You will not have a dry mead.

 

[T_Baggins]

A full packet of EC1118, rehydrated and preferably with GoFerm would be the best chance of success. You will not have a dry mead.

....now that depends. I do believe it was stated earlier that 14% is expected?
EC-1118 will go to 18% ...so it could possibly dry out. But then hey, you could always add more honey!

 

[T_Baggins]

also yes, use thee whole packet, I do not believe it is possible to use too much? (well, when we're talk ing about the packets of dry) seeing how the yeasts multiply to millions in primary.

 

[Maylar]

....now that depends. I do believe it was stated earlier that 14% is expected?
EC-1118 will go to 18% ...so it could possibly dry out. But then hey, you could always add more honey!

He's starting with an OG of 1.170, which has the potential of about 22%. Even if the EC1118 goes to 18% there will be 30 points of sugar left.

 

[T_Baggins]

ahhh....I guess I missed that.