Sanyo 4912 draft tower stabilization mod and stainless steel rail install tips

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sirsloop

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So I had test fit my beer tower on my Sanyo 4910 while I waited for my stainless steel rails to arrive. I noticed that when you pulled on the faucet, the plastic was lifting up off the fridge and bending slightly, making the beer tower feel flimsy.

I stopped in at lowes and picked up some thin walled aluminum angle iron. It was 1/16" (wall thickness) x 1/2" x 3/4" x 50"and cost ~6 bucks. I used my dremel to notch the plastic support bars that go around the 8x8" square. I cut the angle iron to length, drilled holes, and used some "Truss Washer Lath Screws" - 8 x 9/16" to secure the aluminum to the 8x8" MDF.

After it was installed this made the beer tower VERY secure feeling. Well worth the ~10 bucks and 30 minutes to install.





I also installed some stainless steel rails for the top of the kegerator. The bars I used were 9-9/64" and 19-7/32", found here: http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=46331&cat=3,43520,43521,46758&ap=1

I wanted to have more than just little machine screws holding this on, so I picked up 6 - 1/4" x 1-1/4" fender washers to support the bars ($1 and change). Also, the machine bolts that are included with the rails are too large. You need to pick up 6 - 8-32 x 3/8" machine bolts to replace them ($1).

At least on my 4910, the fender washers fit PERFECTLY into the rounded plastic support (see the top washers above). The ~20" wide support bolts line up PERFECTLY - just push the washers into the corners and drill. Obviously, check on yours before you take my word, but thats what I did. I eyeballed the other 4 holes, setting the mounting hole 1-1/2" down from the edge of the washer, and slightly out towards the outside. I used washers here too, and simply cut away the plastic support where needed.

This also helped reinforce the plastic on the fridge, resulting in a VERY solid feeling beer tower!!




I should have beer flowing this weekend!!!! :mug:

 

Bobby_M

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Alright so I'm getting jealous of everyone that has a living-quarter acceptable, pretty kegger. Mine is such a huge noisy beast. Well, it does hold 5 kegs, so...
 

LouT

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That is NICE sirsloop, thanks for the ideas.
I used a much larger piece of plywood, hoping I won't also need to use angle iron.
I really like the tips you gave on rail hardware - mine's ordered up, but I ordered the two sizes longer than you did for side rails, want to see what I think looks better on the top of kegerator before I drill.
Is there a reason not to go all the way from rear to front with the side rails? I was thinking I'd come a lot further forward with my side rails. I know it's not how the store-bought kegerators are set up, but this is CUSTOM... I just would like to know if I'm overlooking something and will regret going longer later.
 
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sirsloop

sirsloop

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You're on your own there ;)

Really all you need is their rails, plus custom vertical pieces. They have thread on the top that goes into the horizontal piece, and 8-32 thread on the bottom for mount. Any machine shop could make those in a few minutes...

I put them on mainly for looks, but it will be nice when I have my wedding... keep plastic cups on there.
 

LouT

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My rails came today. Having tried both lengths for the sides, the one that goes from front to back all the way looks best to me.
So, the 19 7/32" (488mm) one fits the back
The 15 7/16" ones fit the sides from back to front (with a reasonable small gap between them and the rear rail.
These fit just inside of the "lip" around the perimeter of the 4912 plastic top.

I screwed up because I was at home dump and didn't remember what size screws and fender washers I needed (also didn't know that the UPS package was waiting at home). So it'll be another trip, if I have time later.

HB-99 -- if you really want taller rails, decide how much taller. Then you can just order an extra handle, cut it in half, and probably drill and tap the internal threads yourself but hire out a machine shop to do the external threads. If you go too tall, though, you'll want to reinforce the underside of the plastic - or side pressure on the rails will cause you to break the plastic (leverage effect).

BTW, the cost for the rails (I bought two extras so overpaid by about $14.00) was $47.20 including shipping. so if you just buy the ones you need you get out for about $33.00 and it really is a nice finished look that complements the brushed stainless tower in my opinion.

If I ever crack the plastic top, I'm going to do one in wood, with a thick urethane finish - maybe it'd be cool to cover it with a skin of stainless or galvanized sheet metal...
OK , getting out of hand now, I'll stop.
 

LouT

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Well, I took the rails out of the packages, and placed them up there in mounting position, this time with drip tray in place. The shorter ones actually look better on the sides , so instead of the 15 7/16" rails, I'm going to use the 12 29/32 (328mm) ones for the side rails.
Hope to get it done today. We have family visiting, so I'm on it early.
 

Tony

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From simple, humble beginnings...the compact Sanyo 4912 entered into existence to help keep food and drinks cool, and take up little space...a simple little fridge...

And now, the Sanyo mini fridges are ever evolving into little beer masters. Everyone just keeps coming up with more and more ideas.

Great job!
 

LouT

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Got most of it done. I still need to decide about dual reg vs. manifold and turning valve on/off for least used keg after getting it to desired pressure -- so I just hit the kegs with CO2 but then put them in and hooked them up to the liquid lines, will do the gas lines when I figure out how I'm gonna go.

Came out sweet. I did use washers, but not the fender washers -- I put my rails up on the tall outer perimeter "lip" of the plastic top. They're about an inch and a half taller than the flat plastic top. I didn't want to mess with cutting the ribbing on underside of the plastic top, since I don't have a dremel I thought it would turn into a PITA.
I like the look. Will post pics when I can.
Awesome help, all, thanks so much!

I just feel like a copy cat - only original idea/item on mine is the drip tray, got it from Pier-1 - it's "classy" looking, but the drips show. Not bad in price dept, though, I think it was $9 bucks.

Still curious if anyone knows if the "log" type sanke microbrew kegs fit into the 4912...
 

homebrewer_99

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LouT said:
HB-99 -- if you really want taller rails, decide how much taller. Then you can just order an extra handle, cut it in half, and probably drill and tap the internal threads yourself but hire out a machine shop to do the external threads. If you go too tall, though, you'll want to reinforce the underside of the plastic - or side pressure on the rails will cause you to break the plastic (leverage effect).
When, and if, I do I will surely reinfornce it from below. Thanks. :D
 

bendavanza

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maybe someone else mentioned this but you can get those "rails" at ikea cheap. My kitchen cabinets are covered in them.
-Ben
 

Shonuff

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maybe someone else mentioned this but you can get those "rails" at ikea cheap. My kitchen cabinets are covered in them.
-Ben
I got my rails at IKEA at 50% off. Paid total of $15. They are stainless steel too.
 

yermej

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Are these the ones you got? It looks like it'd work to use the 13 7/8" across the back (17 1/2" total length) and then one of the two shortest sizes for the sides. Which lengths did you use?
 

pwb2103

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Man those rails look great, my kegerator isn't even finished yet and now you already have me thinking of more ways to deck out my setup
 

pjdunn11

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Hey Sirsloop - wondering if you could repost your photos. I have a converted sanyo 4912, and mine feels as you described - a little flimsy. I'd like to amend, but am not sure of how to accomplish. Thanks!
 
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