Sanke 1/4 BBL Fermenter Conversion

[cantrell00]

All:

Is the dome in the bottom (or top) of a 1/4 bbl keg steep enough to handle yeast/trub accumulation in the same way that a conical would?

I am considering converting mine assuming it would. If not, I'm probably going to buy a fastrack fastferment plastic.

Anyone with any experience with converted kegs as fermenters?

 

[Komocabo]

I use a 1/2 barrel as a fermenter. I can harvest the yeast, but I do not think it will be as effective as a conical would be. Look up the brewhemoth (spelling?). There is a lot of ranting about the angle of it. I think conical are at 60° and there is a reason.

I am not an expert, just filling in with my prior research.

 

[cantrell00]

I use a 1/2 barrel as a fermenter. I can harvest the yeast, but I do not think it will be as effective as a conical would be. Look up the brewhemoth (spelling?). There is a lot of ranting about the angle of it. I think conical are at 60° and there is a reason.

I am not an expert, just filling in with my prior research.

Thanks.. Will do...

I should have also mentioned that I intend to pressurize with CO2 if neccesary to force the yeast/trub down & out so I can the rack the contents out..

 

[acidrain]

It will only get what accumulates in the opening.
Sanke's are great for fermenting, but not so great as a conical.
Some guys have welded a cone to a cut Sanke, but I'm not a fan of blind welds that you can't dress.

 

[Brettomomyces]

I think a fastrack would probably be a better choice if you want the conical aspect for yeast and trub. I do love my sanke fermenters though. I use Bobby's fermenter kits and do co2 transfers. When I want to harvest yeast I throw in some distilled water after racking and wash that way. Cold crashing and keeping the racking cane about 1 1/2" off the bottom helps me get perfectly clear beer out of the keg.

 

[cantrell00]

I think a fastrack would probably be a better choice if you want the conical aspect for yeast and trub. I do love my sanke fermenters though. I use Bobby's fermenter kits and do co2 transfers. When I want to harvest yeast I throw in some distilled water after racking and wash that way. Cold crashing and keeping the racking cane about 1 1/2" off the bottom helps me get perfectly clear beer out of the keg.

Thanks for the info...

The biggest negative with the fastrack is it's size... They are really awkward to place in a fermentation fridge.

Good to know also on Bobby's stuff. I was going to buy his conversion kit and bottom drain if I went that way..

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Some guys have welded a cone to a cut Sanke, but I'm not a fan of blind welds that you can't dress.

That's what your back up gas is for, a pretty weld that ya' can't access.

However, that's a LOT of back up gas!

 

[cantrell00]

It will only get what accumulates in the opening.
Sanke's are great for fermenting, but not so great as a conical.
Some guys have welded a cone to a cut Sanke, but I'm not a fan of blind welds that you can't dress.

Me either & unless you are doing it yourself - the work would cost as much as a 7.5 gallon stainless conical... Or close to that much..

 

[Brettomomyces]

Thanks for the info...

The biggest negative with the fastrack is it's size... They are really awkward to place in a fermentation fridge.

Good to know also on Bobby's stuff. I was going to buy his conversion kit and bottom drain if I went that way..

I've thought about doing it like that, then just welding some legs onto the outside of the keg. You would need to install some kind of port on the top. Then maybe you could get one of those yeast collectors that more beer sells.

 

[acidrain]

That's what your back up gas is for, a pretty weld that ya' can't access.

However, that's a LOT of back up gas!

You still want to make it smooth and you still have to passivate it. I'm no slouch at TIG, but I'm not up to blind sanitary welds.
My opinion... Sanke's aren't really conducive to yeast gathering.