Sanch's official all tri clover rig build!!!

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sanch

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Joined
Jun 14, 2009
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Location
Mesa town
Well after much thought I have decided to start an official build thread. I started my rig build about two years ago, and have not made much progress untill recently. I have been documenting my recent progress on my help thread and have seen no feedback in the past few weeks so i decided to start a new thread, more appropriately titled, to document my build and share my methods.

Just to bring you all up to date, my original plan was a single tier, steam infused mash setup powered by a pressure cooker that I modified for steam bending wood. Including a tippie dump, two pumps, hard pipe plumbing,and 100 percent manual. I like the human aspect of brewing.


I have made a few changes to the original plan mainly the pressure cooker idea has been replaced by a Flash Boiler simillar to Klaude's and Green Montie's. Mine is four 20' lengths of 1/4" soft copper tubing. Also I scored a bunch of Tri Clover fittings, valves etc. at the local scrap yard for 88 cents per pound!!! I bought about 400 lbs worth and sold off the stuff I didn't need to recoup my investment. With a heaping pile of Tri Clover pipe and fittings i began to piece together my plumbing.

My main justification for starting this new thread is that I have not seen any body hard pipe a rig with Tri Clovers. Also I think my rig very visualy shows the wort flow path and I think this might help people thinking of doing somthing similar. Also the manual flash boiler settup is fairly simple without all the electronic gagetry to confuse the actuall prosess. over the next couple of weeks I will post up pictures and methods. If you have any questions or comments, speek up and I will do my best to answer all. I want to document this build as detailed as posible, and doing it sort of after the fact I might leave somthing out.

P.S. The computer is a tool I am not very good with, so bear with me keeping up with my slow fingers. :eek:




Here is the original stand configuration. I got rid of the wood panels, one caught fire while testing the burner. I also had to move the center uprights closer to the outside to accommidate the Tri clover plumbing. The stand was welded with an old rusty stick welder that I found in a ditch at one of my brothers investment propertys. The keggle on the left was the 1st one i built I welded the band around the top with alumnum wire, I thaught kegs were aluminum. I still brewed a few batches on it!!! :D

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Some of the Tri Clover stuff from the scrap yard.


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Drilling kegs for valves.


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The inside of my one usable keggle.

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Here I am cutting the stand down for the seconed time. This saw is sweet I have used it to cut cars into movable pieces in the past.


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Here is the stand at it's new better height with proper casters with the lower wort manifold installed. The valves are three way and allow wort to be directed to either pump from any of the three kettles. With sight glasses and thermometers installed. also notice the vent holes in the lower keg skirt.


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And the tippie dump.


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Thanks for lookin I'll post more tomorrow. :mug:
 
Looks Great! I'm thinking of a tilting MLT but don't know how to lock it in place during use. Can you show some closeup pictures of the locking device for the MLT?
 
Also I scored a bunch of Tri Clover fittings, valves etc. at the local scrap yard for 88 cents per pound!!!
Lucky bastage :p

Here is the stand at it's new better height with proper casters with the lower wort manifold installed. The valves are three way and allow wort to be directed to either pump from any of the three kettles. With sight glasses and thermometers installed. also notice the vent holes in the lower keg skirt.


P1011178.jpg

I'm a little bit concerned about that leftmost keggle. You have the thermometer port right above one of the original holes in the skirt. You are apt to get a lot of heat coming out of there and it might affect the thermometer. I don't think it will be as much of a problem with the mash tun since it is not direct fired. I can't tell if the sight glass on the rightmost keggle is above one of the holes or not.
 
The mlt is held in place by the Tri Clovers I just have it temporairily held in place with a sanke dip tube jamed under it. I have been thinking of ways to hold it in the dump position, but havent nailed any thing down for sure.

As for the holes in the skirt, the burner wind skirt goes up all the way to the keg bottom and has noches cut in it that line up with the vents in the keg skirt so the flame realy dosn't come out of those holes.

I know I am a Bastage it was a good find. As I said it was 88 cents per pound. I had about 350 bucks to spend from the alumunum siding I was there scraping, and I made enough selling the stuff I didn't want that I basicaly got it all for free. :D But it is geting neer the end of the pile and I may have to buy a few things to finish. :(
 
Here is the gas valve setup thanks to Klaude he did all the pipe bending I just cut out the plate.

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And the water input valves.


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Also built by Klaude there are two circuts one for producing steam and one for strike water and sparge water.there is an on /off valve and a needle valve for precise flow controll on each curcuit.




Here is a close up of the wort flow manifolds. I am still short a few gaskets but this is what it will look like.


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How did you cut those nice vent holes in the skirts?

I marked out the location of all the slots, set the keg flat on a table and used a center punch on top of a peice of wood to mark the centers. Then drilled holes with a unibit, then i used the back side of my flush cut saw as a strait edge to make a line between the edes of the holes, then cut the line with a die grinder with a 3" cut off wheel, and clean up the cut with a file. I used the same method on my sight glass shield.
 
My welder and machinist are going to be tied up for the next two weekends so my tri clover fabricating is dead in the water. This weekend I plan to complete the gas plumbing and the water inlet plumbing. I cant wait to see flames pouring out from the vents on both boil kettles!!!

I have been thinking about igniters for the burners. I have 115v power for the pumps. I have a automotive coil laying around i was thinking maybe a 12v dc inverter and a few spark plugs. There has to be a good way to light the burner without a crappy bbq igniter? Maybe there are good bbq igniters out there? If anybody has a good suggestion let me know.

Here is some pics of fabricating the tri clover valve ends.


Milling the the hex of the end of one of the valve body ends.

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Removing the threads on the tri clover end.

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No more threads

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Welding


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Klaude came over yesterday and we got all the water inlet plumbing done. We also got all the gas plumbed up except the connect hose to the propane tank.


A pic of the rig with all the plumbing in place.


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The back side of the gas plumbing.


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The new water filter courtesy of my neighbor the plumber. These were castoffs but he had some new activated carbon filter cartriges to put in them. We also added two valves one for a clean up sprayer and one for a plate chiller somwhere in the future, for now it will feed the immersion chiller.


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Here is the quick disconnects for the flash boiler PLEASE NOTE!!!! The open end of the QD is on the flash boiler side that way there is no way to build any pressure, if the fitting isn't properly set.



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The flash boiler from the front side. The tubing is Teflon rated for 450°


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This is the best shot I could get of the steam diffuser, It is mounted in a 1" swagelock tee that is coupled to a short section of tri clover pipe with a flange on the end.


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A front view with the output thermometer


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I got a little impacient today after leak testing the water plumbing and pieced together a temporary propane tank connection, so I could fire up the flash boiler. after a little bit of tuning i was able to produce 180° water for sparge at about .5 GPM. I closed the strike/sparge valve and opened the steam circuit valve, tuned the needle valve so the flow meter read 14 GPH and I had 230° steam!!! I kind of messed around with it for a while and finally realized that if I opened both valves and tuned the steam valve to just over 40 GPH I could get 125° water for dough in. I was thoroughly amazed at how fast it got to temp and stablized, like within 10-15 seconds. Well here are some action shots of the testing.


Horray steam!!!!!


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The sparge water. I was very impresed at how once you dialed it in the temp remained constant I left it run for like 20 min and it didnt move even a degree.



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Thanks for lookin ill post more as soon I can.
 
I hate you so much right now. That is such an awesome score on all the fittings. Have you priced out what it would have been if you had to buy them new?
 
wait till you brew for the first time with the flash boilier, you will NEVER go back. Literally my best brewing tool.
 
wait till you brew for the first time with the flash boilier, you will NEVER go back. Literally my best brewing tool.


Yea I definately cant wait to do the first batch, after seing the flash boiler function it looks like it will make things much faster. do you use yours to inject steam for mash steps? If so what does your diffusion chamber look like? I would like to see.
 
Hell of a score on the fittings! I work for Swagelok and can tell you that 1" x 1/2" reducing tee alone is worth $150+ retail.

Is the tubing TFE or PFA material? What's the pressure going to be at your maximum temp?

I've seen GreenMonti's thread on flash boilers and they're a really interesting concept. I'm hoping my next rig will have some sort of hot water on demand type setup, can you dissect your flash boiler setup/schematic?

Thanks,
G
 
The tubing is PFA.

There is never any pressure in the Flash Boiler and no valves or ways to block or restrict the flow at all. The different temeratures are achieved by controlling the flow rate of the input water, at a set fire rate at least that was what worked for me.

I worked up a quick schematic for ya dont laugh I have not used paint since I was a kid. :D


waterinputschematic.jpg
 
Sanch,

The schematic is great and the flow rate/temperature correlation makes sense. What heat source are you using for the flash boiler? I assume the shroud/stack around the tubing acts as an exhaust as well?
 
sanch said:
Yea I definately cant wait to do the first batch, after seing the flash boiler function it looks like it will make things much faster. do you use yours to inject steam for mash steps? If so what does your diffusion chamber look like? I would like to see.

Tonight I am going to mash in a triple with 4.5 gal in about 7 minutes.

I have used steam infusion for a step mash, I just held the tube In the mash run. :)
 
I used a 4" cast iron burner similar to the one Green Montie used. The stack is two sections of 6" stove pipe, it exhausts out the top that is just open. I was going to put a damper on it but when I was testing yesterday I very carfully put my hand over the stack to see how hot it was. the gases coming out were just warm!!! I can only conclude that the thermal conversion is complete enough transfer the majority of the heat into the water.
 
Tonight I am going to mash in a triple with 4.5 gal in about 7 minutes.

I have used steam infusion for a step mash, I just held the tube In the mash run. :)


I wonder any body else can mash in so rapidly?

Qurious how long the steps take? From temp? to temp? I have been curious as to how long the steps take on different systems. HERMS, RIMS...

For mash in temp my flash boiler flows about 70 GPH so 4.5 gal in 5.25 min plus a few for ignition and stabilization. :rockin:
 
I have absolutely no idea how any of the stuff you have assembled is supposed to work but all I can say is BADASS!
 
I have absolutely no idea how any of the stuff you have assembled is supposed to work but all I can say is BADASS!


I'd like to thank evereybody for the kind words, they help keep me motavated.
I have thrown together a few pics of how this system works.here they are.

this is one of step mash increase
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Mash out


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Do you have a build thread for the flash boiler? I have fears that someday I will have to replace mine and need to know how others are building them.

Mine is based off of an old tankless heater converted to propane.
 
Any plans on a bottom drain? I can tell you they're nice to have because a lot of fluid stays in the triclovers. If you can't add a valve in at this point, I guess you could undo a single triclover clamp and let it drain that way.
 
I only have one question. Are you going to polish the mash tun?

Beyond that, that system is just plain Awesome!! You definitely have skills!

Two
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I've been heavily considering having a 4" triclamp welded to the bottom of my mash tun to use a triclamp to 1/2" NPT as a drain and then take off the triclamp to dump the grains. Bottom drains large enough for everything to dump out make cleanup SOOOO much easier.
 
Paul hilgeman

I will post some more info on the construction of the flash boiler. I dont have any pics of the actuall construction but I will take some when I dissasemble everything for paint. I will try to explain it as best i can. It is almost identical to Green Monties the main difference is that i used 80' of 1/4" copper tube and did not use the 5/8" outer coil, I had planed to but Klaude told me I mite have problems with the steam recondensing in the top of the coil.


Scuba Steve and Klyph

The mash tun will have a center drain. I used a piece of 2" pipe with a 2 1/2" Tri Clover on the end. I drilled a hole in the side of the 2" pipe to insert a 1" tri pipe to connect to the plumbing.I will post some pics of it as soon as I can.


DuneRunner

Yes I will polish the mash tun I will have some time in the next few weeks to remove the devils embossing on the keggle and give it a proper polishing.

I cant take all the credit for the fab work, Green Montie welded my steam diffuser and Klaude has been out helping out with the water and gas plumbing and with a lot of design and engineering he pioneered the steam infusion recirculating mash system SIRMS, and Green Montie Has taken it a step further with steam boiling My buddy burro has been doing all the machine work and tig welding, without these guys none of this would have worked out as well as it has. I just cant wait to see it all in action. :ban:
 
Looks good, seems like that is how everyone is making their coils for these things! Did you solder, braze, or weld your connections?
 
Looks good, seems like that is how everyone is making their coils for these things! Did you solder, braze, or weld your connections?


I used sill foss 15 silver solder I have a friend that does HVAC he soldered it for me.
 
So correct me if I'm wrong here, but it looks like the flow on yours is up the middle pipe and then down through the coils to the exit pipe right?
 
So correct me if I'm wrong here, but it looks like the flow on yours is up the middle pipe and then down through the coils to the exit pipe right?


the water flows down through the center then up through the coils, this helps avoid the the coils getting blocked by air pockets while heating.
 
No problems with cooling with that flowpath?

Also, is the solder holding up to the direct flame or how high off the burner and what burner are you using? Thanks
 
No problems with cooling with that flowpath?

Also, is the solder holding up to the direct flame or how high off the burner and what burner are you using? Thanks


I dont know what you mean about the cooling I use this for heating only?
and It does that just fine.

The solder is holding up just fine I beleive it flows at 1200° and the pipe itself never gets more than a few ° hoter than the water inside.
 
I meant with the water cooling since it flows so far from the flame before going to the kettle.
 
I meant with the water cooling since it flows so far from the flame before going to the kettle.

The output temp is measured right before it enters the diffuser. If it is I would have no way of knowing. I just adjust the flame/water flow to hit my desired output temp.

Sorry I have not posted more about the flash boiler.

The coil sets inside a 6" stove pipe. The heat follows the coil all the way to the top. The bottom of the coil is about 3" from the burner.

here is a pic of the whole assembly.

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This is the burner and stand. The stand has a piece of channel that I cut long ways to hang off the back of the brew rigg.

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The coil inside the stove pipe. It is not properly mounted yet its just kind of hangin there on the inlet/outlet.

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I hope that helps you and clarifies things better?
 
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