Safale US-05 and Trub

[thirstypanda]

I've done 2 brews with this yeast, and it certainly is forgiving, however, it seems to leave an enormously large amount of trub which results in less than anticipated output.

Is this just me?

Is there a better alternative?

Maybe I'm being too picky.

 

[AkTom]

I use S-05 a lot. I factor in 1/2 gallon trub loss. I give it at least 2 weeks to finish up and compact.

 

[waldoar15]

My .02 is that it just depends on the beer, grain, hot break, cold break, ect.

I've fermented beers with it that had a lot of trub and some with very little.

I always set my batch size to 5.5 gallons when brewing.

 

[flars]

Two beers with the same OG fermented with US-05, but different ingredients, will end with the trub layer at different heights. The amount of yeast propagated will most likely be the same but break material and especially the amount of hops in each beer makes the big difference.

 

[MaxStout]

Cold-crash the beer. If you chill the fermenter to 40-ish a day or so before packaging, that will drop a lot of trub from suspension and make a tighter trub layer on the bottom. You'll rack more beer off the top.

 

[mongoose33]

You might also consider using a hop spider. This suspends a muslin or other close-weave bag in the boil, and you pour your hops into that. It captures most of the hop trub so that at the end it doesn't go into the fermenter.

I've been using one and it makes a noticeable reduction in the amount of trub in the fermenter.

You can make one pretty cheaply--on the order of $10 or so.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/hop-spider-cheap.207803/

 

[thirstypanda]

I use S-05 a lot. I factor in 1/2 gallon trub loss. I give it at least 2 weeks to finish up and compact.

This is probably part of my issue. Being a newbie, after the fermentation ends I've been a bit quick on the draw to bottle. Perhaps leaving it for the full 2 weeks will allow the trub to settle a bit better. Thanks!

 

[thehaze]

You should try to limit the qty of trub your are transferring to your fermenter, from the brew kettle. What I did for my last batches was use Brewtan B in the mash and boil ( used mostly because I have a copper counuterflow chiller ), along with Protafloc in the boil.

When the boil was over, I immediately started to chill the wort to say 160F and then I manually whirlpooled using a steel paddle. I let the wort rest for 10 minutes and then whirlpooled again and let it rest for 10-15 minutes. I then transferred to the fermenter. I had like almost 1 inch of trub in all my 5 batches and the beer going into the fermenter was pretty much clear.

So finnings at the end of boil, a whirlpool and a rest of the wort, so particles have time to settle at the bottom of the brew kettle will greatly reduce the qty of trub leaving the kettle.

 

[jimmykx250]

Love this workhorse yeast. Easy to harvest and repitch. Cold crash that will help, but definately reharvest some for the next batch.

 

[RM-MN]

This is probably part of my issue. Being a newbie, after the fermentation ends I've been a bit quick on the draw to bottle. Perhaps leaving it for the full 2 weeks will allow the trub to settle a bit better. Thanks!

Settling and compacting the trub takes some time. I usually let mine go for a minimum of 2 weeks, more often 3 and sometime 4 or more. It's hard to wait for that long but the results make it worthwhile.