S-04?

[lalnx]

Ok, Here is my situation (not really a situation, just planning ahead)

I am planning my mass ingredient order to get me through most of the winter, 8-10 5 gallon batches. I’m only planning dry yeast at this time, and most of what I have planned can use S-05 (may have to do a Belgian though). I intend to pitch onto the yeast cake from previous batches, to save a couple bucks, as well as to keep me brewing regularly.:rockin: I plan on doing a Magic Hat #9 clone for my wife, and listening to “Can you brew it” they say it uses an English ale yeast, so that would be S-04. So here is my question; if I were to use the S-04 in the #9, how do you feel it would be to put a Fat Tire clone on that S-04 cake? I just thought that the biscuity flavor you want with Fat Tire may work well with S-04. Or should I just keep the esters out of the FT and use S-05? Maybe I skip the S-04 on the #9 and just use S-05 on it…..Please give me your 2 cents?

Thanks!

 

[Bentpirate]

Don't stress.... It's yeast, it's beer, it's a hobby! It's always nice to make as close to the real deal as you can; but seriously, US-05 will work. No need to stress about the perfect brew, heck, call it your own

 

[permo]

I hate S-04...it is so touchy and drops out too easily. For a magic hat clone, I think US-05 would be just fine. Nottingham is technically dry english ale yeast, so that may be a good choice too.

English Ale yeast is not a good choice for a fat tire clone. US-05 fermented on the cooler side of the coin.

If I had to use dry yeast, it would be US-05 or Nottingham for sure. If you are thinking about cost, why don't you buy a vial of WLP001 and top crop it for your next batches. I have 10 samples of yeast that I just harvested from a single first generation WLP001 fermentation.

 

[maida7]

Just buy an extra package of yeast and use the 04 on the #9 and the 05 for the fat tire. Is the extra 3.00 gonna kill you?

 

[nilo]

S04 is the best yeast I have worked with so far. It drops fast, but it will have done its job already, so I'm good with that.
Besides, it compacts to nicely that I get clear beer all the time.
I keep fermentation temps on check though, 65F +-1F.
I re-hydrate before pitching, 1 pack in about 2 cups of water at 105F, mix for 5min, cool to wort temp then pitch.

 

[Yooper]

I hate S-04...it is so touchy and drops out too easily. For a magic hat clone, I think US-05 would be just fine. Nottingham is technically dry english ale yeast, so that may be a good choice too.

English Ale yeast is not a good choice for a fat tire clone. US-05 fermented on the cooler side of the coin.

If I had to use dry yeast, it would be US-05 or Nottingham for sure. If you are thinking about cost, why don't you buy a vial of WLP001 and top crop it for your next batches. I have 10 samples of yeast that I just harvested from a single first generation WLP001 fermentation.

I'm the exact opposite- I LOVE S04. I even use it in American style APAs and occasionally IPAs. Fermented cool (64-65 degrees), it's very "clean" and it leaves a sparkling clear beer without any need for finings or cold crashing. It forms a very tight compact yeast cake, and makes racking super easy. I use it for many clean crisp beers. I'd use it on the FT clone, no problem.

 

[mc_eric]

+1 to what yoop said. I honestly think you could go w/ either yeast on either of those beers (though I've never actually had fat tire). They won't make the same beer, but they should both be good. Notty would probably work as well.

 

[ILuvIPA]

Lalnx - This does not directly answer your question but might be of use this winter if you decide you want a different yeast or hop for a special batch. I've used Rebel Brewers several times for small orders that qualified for their "super saver" shipping. The shipping cost me about $2.

If memory serves I've been able to add either 4 or 6 oz hops or 4 packs of dry yeast before the shipping rate jumps. It's a great deal if you need a small quantity for a one-off batch but not yet ready to put together a big order. They are the only on-line I'm aware of that offers that ship option.

Cheers!

 

[Frodo]

I'm the exact opposite- I LOVE S04. I even use it in American style APAs and occasionally IPAs. Fermented cool (64-65 degrees), it's very "clean" and it leaves a sparkling clear beer without any need for finings or cold crashing. It forms a very tight compact yeast cake, and makes racking super easy. I use it for many clean crisp beers. I'd use it on the FT clone, no problem.

+1 I recently made a pale ale split into 2 carboys, used S-04 in one S-05 in the other. S-04 was crystal clear after 5 days and is in the bottle already, S-05 is FINALLY getting mostly clear after about 4 weeks.

 

[lalnx]

Thanks, to all that have posted.

The saving a few bucks was just an added bonus of re-pitching, not a requirement. I actually get my ingredients through my wife's uncle, and pretty much get them at wholesale+shipping, so no place online can come close

I was mostly probing if the charecteristics of S-04 would fit well with a Fat Tire clone. I guess like many of you out there when I "clone" a beer I don't need it to be exact, just very similar, but hopefully better. I like to share my beer with friends, and hopfully broaden them from BMC. When handing them a homebrew, if they can relate it to a commercial brew, they may have a better idea where I'm coming from.

I had been kicking around the idea of 04 in the Fat Tire even before I agreed to do the #9, and after the last couple posts, I'm going there.

off topic to the yeast, but inline with my comment above to hopefully make it better than the original. I am thinking of swapping the cascade hops in #9 for citra, thinking they would meld better with the apricot extract.

 

[lalnx]

I don't know yet if these beers will be going into kegs, or bottles. Since this yeast drops and clears quickly, do you experience a longer time frame to fully carbonate if naturally bottle carbing due to lower cell counts? Won't effect my plans, just wondering what I can expect. I realize of course, any yeast at any time will vary.

Thanks

 

[nilo]

I don't know yet if these beers will be going into kegs, or bottles. Since this yeast drops and clears quickly, do you experience a longer time frame to fully carbonate if naturally bottle carbing due to lower cell counts? Won't effect my plans, just wondering what I can expect. I realize of course, any yeast at any time will vary.

Thanks

I get fully carbonated bottles in 3 to 5 days with S04.

 

[mc_eric]

I've never noticed a difference in bottle conditioning w/ 04.

 

[hector]

I'm the exact opposite- I LOVE S04. I even use it in American style APAs and occasionally IPAs. Fermented cool (64-65 degrees), it's very "clean" and it leaves a sparkling clear beer without any need for finings or cold crashing. It forms a very tight compact yeast cake, and makes racking super easy. I use it for many clean crisp beers. I'd use it on the FT clone, no problem.

I've used S-04 for the first time making a Pale Ale . The Beer is in the Primary since 11 days ago .

I used DME ( Light colour )

Lagtime = 12 Hours

Ambient Temp. = 67 Degrees F

The Airlock bubbled every 10 Seconds for the first two days and then stopped bubbling .

The Yeast has setteled out but the Beer doesn't look clear yet .

As it's written on the Suchet that S-04 ferments fast , I'd like to know

if my Beer is in normal Condition .

Should I wait longer ?

Hector

 

[jfr1111]

Wait some more. S-04 does floculate fast, but you are still early in the game: it might just be protein and other assorted crap that is clouding the beer. I have a wit that I used T-58 on. This yeast is renowned for fast and heavy flocculation, making it a really good option for bottle conditionning. The yeast dropped after 3 days making a nice thick cake, but I still have krausen proteins floating around and slowly dropping. You can clearly see the line where the beer is somewhat clear (this is a wit after all) and where the particules are still in suspension. I'm 7 days in.

You can always crash cool for a few days, but I would just wait. Waiting is the hardest and easiest thing to do in homebrewing