Russian Imperial Stout (RIS) Dry yeast

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jojacques

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Hey,
So I found a Clone recipe for Stone's Russian Imperial Stout and Im currently planning to brew it on Saturday.
https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3128-stone-imperial-russian-stout-clone

I got all my malts and hops, but I am still confused about which DRY yeast to use...

Most people on the interwebs seem to recommend going for US-05, which should give me a clean taste. The clone recipe I found calls for English yeast (WLP002), so I am wondering if I should use something like S04 (which I have plenty on hand), Windsor or something else.....

What would you do?
US-05? Or English like S04, Windsor or something else......?
(Im going for 3 rehydrated packs by the way!)
 
Maybe I'm too simple (or stupid), but my rule of thumb for dry yeast is if it's a hop driven beer I use 05, if it's a malt driven beer I'd go Windsor or 04. I'm actually kind of leaning towards Windsor (if I used dry) as the last 2 beers I did with 04 were not really to my liking.
 
The key concern is getting it to attenuate properly. So you want to avoid those nice flavourful English yeasts that you might use in a normal stout. I'm going with Nottingham for my next RIS since it attenuates well with maybe a bit more character than 05.
 
The key concern is getting it to attenuate properly. So you want to avoid those nice flavourful English yeasts that you might use in a normal stout. I'm going with Nottingham for my next RIS since it attenuates well with maybe a bit more character than 05.

What about adjusting your mash schedule to compensate? S04 always was a low attenuator for me (loved it fro session beers to keep the body up and alcohol down), but if you drop your mash temp 2-4 *F would that get you the best of both worlds?
 
I have a similar question, but am doing a extract version of Goose Island Bourbon County Stout with OG of 1.135 and haven't chosen a yeast due to wanting the best attenuating yeast.
 
Guys I am going to be not a little controversial here. WLP001, US-05 are bland as it gets and fine if you want a completely neutral tasting yeast that does not subdue the hops, but for a malt forward Russian Imperial stout? No way. Why go to the trouble and expense of making a Russian Imperial stout and then use a dry yeast that is unsuitable for the style? If you are trying to emulate WLP002 then attenuation is not your primary concern, you want to leave at least a little residual sweetness. Thats what WLP002 does. In my opinion there is simply NO substitute for WLP002 and its worth spending six bucks on a vial and making a good starter. Nothing else will cut it.
 
I asked about the gravity, because 3 pks sounded like a lot. Many Brewers say you cannot over pitch, but other very learned and experienced Brewers say you can. Using liquid yeast is not some magical step up in skill or results, but there is a greater variety available. :)
 
I asked about the gravity, because 3 pks sounded like a lot. Many Brewers say you cannot over pitch, but other very learned and experienced Brewers say you can. Using liquid yeast is not some magical step up in skill or results, but there is a greater variety available. :)

Honestly, I am getting confused by this. Some people are telling me 2 packs, and some are saying 3 packs....
I felt like going with 3 packs would simply avoid underpitching..
 
Guys I am going to be not a little controversial here. WLP001, US-05 are bland as it gets and fine if you want a completely neutral tasting yeast that does not subdue the hops, but for a malt forward Russian Imperial stout? No way. Why go to the trouble and expense of making a Russian Imperial stout and then use a dry yeast that is unsuitable for the style? If you are trying to emulate WLP002 then attenuation is not your primary concern, you want to leave at least a little residual sweetness. Thats what WLP002 does. In my opinion there is simply NO substitute for WLP002 and its worth spending six bucks on a vial and making a good starter. Nothing else will cut it.

I am not equipped for a starter. No Flask, No stirplate.
I could go buy a 2L flask today (LHBS, 20$) but, as per Mr Malty, would need 3 packs of liquid yeast (LHBS, 33$) using the "Intermitent Shaking" method.
That boosts the cost of my batch!
 
I am not equipped for a starter. No Flask, No stirplate.
I could go buy a 2L flask today (LHBS, 20$) but, as per Mr Malty, would need 3 packs of liquid yeast (LHBS, 33$) using the "Intermitent Shaking" method.
That boosts the cost of my batch!

You don't need a flask or a stir plate or 3 packs of liquid yeast. A 2 litre PET bottle will do just nicely or a gallon demijohn if you have it. 1 packet of liquid yeast and some DME (about 300g total). Your OG is pretty high, you might want to ferment out 1.5 litres of DME, decant it and add it to another fresh 1.5 litres of DME. Total cost, 12 bucks, as much as you paid for those three packets of dry yeast! You will be sitting on a winters day, drinking your Imperial stout like a Tzar! Probably end up speaking Russian with no effort.

Honestly I agree it takes more time and effort, but I think its worth it. What's the alternative? 3 packs of S04. Nottingham which will eat everything in sight So will S05.

150g DME, 1.5 litres of water, 1 packet of WLP002, 1 PET bottle. Ferment, decant, repeat = awesomeness! :tank:
 
I did a super high gravity one with S04, should've used S05 because it came out too sweet, the high starting gravity needed that extra attenuation to get it to drinkable range. It wasn't bad though! If you are below SG 1.09 or so, you can use S04.

S05 is gonna be slightly lower attenuation than normal under high gravity conditions. If you wanna take a risk of a 1.01 SG and then use a yeast that attenuates at 70%, then you may end up with 1.03 FG, which can be pretty sweet.
 
If I go Windsor (which I've been recommended), mash super low (148F) and add 1lb of Corn Sugar, I would probably end in the 1.024 range....

I think I will do US-05, but will mash a bit higher than usual, ditch the sugar and get an FG of about 1.021....which I think would be fine...

Thoughts?
 
04 has always been my go to yeast for my RIS. A couple packets should work nicely. Just keep those temps in check :)
The last one I did started at 1.096 and finished at 1.024 with 2 packets of 04
 
I might have a go at this, never brewd an Imperial stout before, Imperial IPA's yes but never an Imperial stout. I like the fact that it has no crystal malt, unless you count amber malt as a crystal malt.

Robbies Ravenous Russian Imperial Stout -
================================================================================
Batch Size: 20.000 L
Boil Size: 27.500 L
Boil Time: 90.000 min
Efficiency: 70%
OG: 1.096
FG: 1.024
ABV: 9.4%
Bitterness: 62.5 IBUs (Tinseth)
Color: 58 SRM (Morey)

Fermentables
================================================================================
Pale Malt (2 Row) UK - 7.5kg
Amber Malt - 910g
Roasted Barley - 570g
Black (Patent) Malt - 570g
Total grain: 9.55kg

Hops
================================================================================
Challenger 7.0% 70g 90min
Kent Goldings 5.5% 70g 30min


Yeast
================================================================================
WLP002 - English Ale Yeast (2.5L starter/stirplate) 350 billion cells required.

Water
================================================================================
Ca 46
Mg 4
Na 22
SO4 52
Cl 41
HCO3 N/A
SO4/Cl Ratio 1.3
 
I usually split my annual batch of an RIS (made 4 times now). I use US05, Notty, and S04 or substitute one of the latter two with a different liquid British strain. The Notty and US05 usually attenuate the same with the S04 finishing 2-3 points higher. I blend them back together in the final kegs. I do it for a bit more complexity.
 
Along these same lines you could always pitch S-04 and US05 together, or pitch S-04 and add the US05 a few days later for attenuation once most of the flavor is set.
 
I ended up brewing yesterday and used Windsor and Mashed low (148F). Estimated FG will be 1.027.
 
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