Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. For equipment on my rig, I am using a Watco PID and a 40 amp SSR with a heat sink, paired with a 4500W ULD water heater element. I am running it on 115-120v or whatever i have where ever I go. I am building this thing to be mobile. Every thing breaks down and fits in the Mercury mystic, my gas sipper. This I suppose will only last until I have bigger vessels, then i will have to use the truck. If you have anymore questions Kickflip, feel free to send me a PM. S.kickflip_mj said:i will definitly need to come ask you i just finished my keggle mash tun today and my manifold... alot of work but the only part im remotly having is figuring out how to wire this damn thing i dont have any electrical components but im thinking about running a ranco or pid to controll my heating element and a float to controll at the end of the manifold for the recurculating wort to keep the grain bed at the same level... hard to explain sometimes
Local Hardware store. They sell it by the foot. This is good though, because a full stick will cost you 60-80$ depending on where you go.Virtuous said:slnies, where did you get the copper arround the heating element at? Been looking for some large diameter tube with little luck
The pump is a March pump, it is not the standard 805, this one has more power, but it was a deal I could not refuse. I will put more info out on it tonight. S.kickflip_mj said:oh i love it, the exchanger looks awsome, can i ask you what pump are you using??
you will have to show me the in's and out's on this... Not saying I want to go that route, but you have my attention.slnies said:Me too, I am thinking about a Mild, as a first for the new rig. I have some WLP 005 to burn up so...
The sensor is in the return manifold. I drilled a hole into the top of a CPVC cap and friction fit the sensor through it. It works great.kickflip_mj said:were did you put your thermo?? is yor pid wired to the heating element and the thermo is wired to the outgoing or ingoing wort?? bc im trying to figure this out for my set up
After thinking about all that went wrong, and reflecting on the fact that because of this website, I had the knowledge to rectify the situations, I'm pretty happy that I'm surrounded by 20 Gal blurping away... Funny part is, it's destined to be the best beer ever made, cause there is no earthly way to replicate any part of that brewday. It was a good experience to go through, and now be able to re-engineer my system to be as fail safe as possible.slnies said:
These are more pictures of this weekends brew day. This is Seabeejohn with his HERMS system. This weekend we were humbled by Murphy's Law. If it could go wrong, it did. One system worked great and the other had issues. His system worked tops the last brew together. I think we were just trying to many new things at once. It still went well though. That said, John did brew 20 gallons of brew on that machine this weekend. An accomplishment in any book.
Ask away, You know where to find me.plumber said:slnies, I have to admit when I saw your set up on Sat. the first thing that entered my mind was wow I want. Now that you said it worked I am going to have to build one. Hope you don't mind but you might get a lot of questions from me in the future.
Hey Bobby, just as a side note, even without the high power, this set up took 57F water to doe in temperature in 18 minutes. I have the ramp set when I am heating wort to do no more than 2.0 degrees a minute. Not that it makes that much of a difference though because I get 4 degrees a minute with plain water and only a little over three in the wort with the PID function on anyway. I set the ramp to two because I figured that was a good number.Bobby_M said:I like the exchanger. I hadn't seen anyone use a heating element in such a confined area before but it certainly takes away the stratafication you'd get in a larger vessel. Interestingly enough, I just went digging through the stainless dumpster at the local scrap yard and found a similar piece of kit. It was a 4" stainless pipe with end cap flanges. I pulled one end out and it had seven 3000 watt x 240v elements inside. Talk about heating capacity. ****. If the elements didn't look so beat, I might have bought it. Well, that and where am I going to get a spare 112 amps from my panel?
It got me thinking though. With enough power, you could use this setup as both an instant water heater for dough in/sparge and with the flick of a few valves could also use it for HERMS. I hate to say it, but I'm rethinking my 3-burner nat gas system.
No! Only because most garages and kitchens already have GFCI's. If I made one a part of the design I would have issues with it tripping because of the existing GFCI. The solution is to use a contractor style corded GFCI when one is not to be had where ever I bring this thing. At Wally's all off his garage circuits are GFCI protected. And at my house where this thing normally resides there is also a GFCI outlet that it plugs into. You bring up a good point though. You should always maintain a GFCI power supply for anything that deals with water or conductive liquids.plumber said:Did you put a gfci plug in on main power supply?