Ridgid 10" compound miter saw

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bradsul said:
That's a decent saw, you'll be happy with it, though I'd replace the POS blade that comes with it.

Yeah I figured I'd have to replace it. Should I replace if off the bat or use it for the 3 cuts its good for?
 
bradsul said:
Depends how important those 3 cuts are I guess. :)

Framing work. I figured I'd burn out the blade it comes with and then get a nice one for my base moulding project...
 
How do I make sure the blade is making straight cuts? When I cut threw that plastic guide thing the line is not parallel to my straight-edge. I'm assuming that means my cuts wouldn't be straight...
 
You can probably use a speed square to check the blade. I have to say I have always been a little disappointed with the Rigid tools. I'll use a Rigid shop-vac, but that's about it. I sprung the extra cash for a DeWalt miter saw.
 
Jester369 said:
You can probably use a speed square to check the blade. I have to say I have always been a little disappointed with the Rigid tools. I'll use a Rigid shop-vac, but that's about it. I sprung the extra cash for a DeWalt miter saw.

So just check for a 90 degree between the gate and the blade?

edit - thanks Kevin
 
You got it.


I looked at the Rigid saws too, but ended up getting a Bosch 10" slider. Great saw.

For home projects you'll be happy with the Rigid.
 
Kevin K said:
For home projects you'll be happy with the Rigid.

That's what I figured. I'll be using this thing an avg of twice per month about. Do you know how I would adjust the blade if its not straight? Is it the same as other saws (e.g. Delta)?
 
It's not the blade that you'll be adjusting, it'll be the fence.

There should be instructions in the manual, I don't know if I've seen a saw that doesn't have that right up front in the manual.

They're usually pretty darn good right out of the box from what I've found.
 
I've got the 12" Ridgid CMS, had it for a couple years and used it plenty---does a great job, no complaints whatsoever.
 
Kevin K said:
It's not the blade that you'll be adjusting, it'll be the fence.

There should be instructions in the manual, I don't know if I've seen a saw that doesn't have that right up front in the manual.

They're usually pretty darn good right out of the box from what I've found.

Well the only reason I think it may be off, is because of how the line the blade made in the plastic thing underneath isn't perpendicular to the fence. Instead of be 90 degrees, it looks more like 85 degrees. But then again, the scrap wood I cut looked straight :confused:
 
Set your saw to 45 degrees, cut two pieces of wood. Butt the angled cuts together, and check with a square. Should be 90 degrees.
If your 45's are good, your 90 should be good.
 
Kevin K said:
Set your saw to 45 degrees, cut two pieces of wood. Butt the angled cuts together, and check with a square. Should be 90 degrees.
If your 45's are good, your 90 should be good.

Excellent! :mug:
 
mitreuk8.png
 
It looks a lot like my Ryobi 10". It's decent for the money but my next one will be 12" with a higher fence and dual bevel. It's a pain in to have to turn a 16 foot piece of moulding around in the room and/or move the entire saw to the other side. My advice is to get a good grasp on how to use the compound miter feature when you finally get to doing crown moulding. It's nice to lay the work flat because it takes a lot of potential error away.
 
I'd take it back. You'll quickly find that 10" isn't enough.

Especially if you ever lay a laminate wood floor a have to make two cuts for every one!


I got the Dewalt, 12" compound miter saw and LOVE it. I can't imagine owning anything else.

:mug:
 
Kevin K said:
Lift the laminate into the blade at the end of the cut! (use caution!)


Nope, it still wouldn't clear. Oh, and this had a 'laser'...


Just buy a 12".

:)
 
If you're trying to get it super accurate, cut one piece of wood in half with the jointed side against the fence, then flip one half of it over and butt them up. If the saw isn't cutting straight, the error will be doubled by doing this.

IE. if the joint makes a 4° bend, then the saw is off 2°, but it's easier to detect when the error is doubled like this.

Ridged has a big name because they use to make TOP DOLLAR/SHELF plumbing tools. There power tools use to be lacking (except they made a kick ass shop vac) but I think in recent years, they are porbably in the top 3 to 5 brands. With Dewalt being the best for mitter saws.

It certainly kicks the $hit out of Ryobi or B&D.
 
You asked so I'll reply. (If I sound like jerk, I'll apologize in advance and blame it on Guinness.)

It depends on what you want to do. If you have one project to do and you won't use it again you're OK. If you want to use it for a decade of two you'll be disappointed. Rigid is not a quality brand. The more you use it the more you'll want better. If you can swing it, return the saw, get a refund, add a couple more bucks and buy quality.

I've slowly been accumulating quality power tools over the past 10+ years. I figure it is better to spend $1.00 this year for a quality chop saw and $1.00 next year for a quality router, rather than $1.00 this year for both.
 
PeteOz77 said:
I beg to differ, SWMBO seems pretty happy with my 10", and she uses it frequently. She's never complained about it being Rigid either.:rockin:

That's only because she's never come up against any serious wood!

:cross:
 
I've got 8 1/2" Dewalt sliding compound miter saw and I love it. Only time I have problems with it is cutting things like 4x4s, takes two passes. Finding new blades are a pita..

I think you will be happy with the ridgid. It sounds to me like you need to adjust the plastic inserts out a little bit. unplug the saw, loosen the screws that hold the plastic inserts still. Drop the blade and push the inserts so they just dont touch the blade and tighten them up.

Cordless Ridgid tools are AWESOME. Lifetime warranty on the batteries. Just mail em in for replacements
 
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