Removable "floating" collar on keezer?

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MaxSpang

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Has anyone seen/made a "floating" collar for a keezer?

I'm thinking of putting a collar on my chest freezer, and would prefer to not have to screw or glue it to the actual freezer. I was thinking of making something that just rests on top, but still keeps things insulated. That way I could easily take it off if need be.

Any thoughts? Terrible idea? Thanks in advanced!
 

TennBrewer

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I have thought it about this, too. My thought was to remove the top, this will eventually be reattached to the collar. Then, construct an "inner" collar using the required '2 by' size, ie. 2x6. The outer side of the collar MUST align with the exterior sides of the freezer. Then, add a wider "outer" collar using 1x10 or 1x12 wood that the "outer" collar hangs further down past the inner collar so that the whole thing slips over on top of the freezer. Re-attach the top to the collar and there you go. When you want to revert back, remove the top, then remove the collar and reattach the cover. It maybe wouldn't hurt to lay some weather stripping on the freezer rim before slipping the collar on.
 

Elric

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Mine is a floating collar, i used camper insulation foam stuck to the freezer edge. I bump into it all the time when working in the freezer and it hasn't made any unexpected moves. Can easily be converted back to a regular freezer if I ever want to move up to a bigger keezer. Would recommend.
 
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MaxSpang

MaxSpang

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Mine is a floating collar, i used camper insulation foam stuck to the freezer edge. I bump into it all the time when working in the freezer and it hasn't made any unexpected moves. Can easily be converted back to a regular freezer if I ever want to move up to a bigger keezer. Would recommend.
Awesome, that sounds like exactly what I'm looking for.

Did you use a guide or anything?
 

Ragman

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Im just curious as to how many people have actually converted their Keezer back to a regular freezer? I didnt care cause mine was super cheap, but I guess if I bought an expensive freezer to use as my keezer I might like that option.
 

Elric

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Awesome, that sounds like exactly what I'm looking for.

Did you use a guide or anything?
Nope, got the inspiration from one of the threads on here (it’s where I got the idea to use camper tape), but just used what I could find for parts for the collar and then bought the necessary tap parts (i went with nukatap and duotight) from what retailers I have available up here in Canada.
 

TenaCJed

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I really need to put up a thread on how I did mine, but it is not unique as I had seen it on here when I decided to do mine.

So I did the collar approach, but the original hinges from the freezer went on the bottom of the collar. I just used standard door hinges to connect the freezer lid to the top of the collar as that is very light. The only thing I still need to add is a locking mechanism to hold the top lid to the collar for when I open the top with the collar instead of the lid. The bottom of the collar has the foam tape sealing on it as well.

The reason I did this was to make it easier to bring a keg into the keezer when it is full. I did not do it this way to convert back easily, however it would be very easy to convert back to a chest freezer as all holes are in the collar.

EDIT: Forget to mention that I used some small plywood to connect to the holes on the lid from the original hinge, then connected the standard door hinges to that wood. Again the top lid is not that heavy and this holds it fine, just flip it up to the wall. Would also be easy to add a locking mechanism to prevent the top from opening too much as well, but mine is by the wall so I just use the wall as a stop.
 

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Genuine

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I'll post some pics of mine when I get home. That's what I essentially did however I also used some RV foam on the edge, where the collar sits. If I ever have to turn it back into a freezer, I just remove the foam, simple enough.
 

TenaCJed

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I have the foam seal on the bottom of my collar so it is not connected to the freezer, if there is a need to turn it back into a freezer. You can see it on the second picture.
 

treacheroustexan

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What about attaching something like these latches to the side of the keezer giving you the ability to latch the collar to the freezer to hold it in place?

latches.jpg
 

Ragman

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My buddy has these on his kegerator to make it seal. Works well
 

fragged

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I used 100% silicone caulk for this exact reason. I put down 6 small hard rubber dots(for glasstop furniture) down onto the keezer, then put a thick bead of silicone down all around it and over the dots. I then put the collar on and let it set. The dots keep the silicone from smashing completely(making removal difficult).

Anytime I wanted I could poke a hole through the silicone bead, slide some fishing line in and cut the silicone bead to remove the collar. After that, a blow dryer and a putty knife would make quick work of the remaining silicone.

I figured maybe someday I'd want to sell it.... as if.
 

odie

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I really need to put up a thread on how I did mine, but it is not unique as I had seen it on here when I decided to do mine.

So I did the collar approach, but the original hinges from the freezer went on the bottom of the collar. I just used standard door hinges to connect the freezer lid to the top of the collar as that is very light. The only thing I still need to add is a locking mechanism to hold the top lid to the collar for when I open the top with the collar instead of the lid. The bottom of the collar has the foam tape sealing on it as well.

The reason I did this was to make it easier to bring a keg into the keezer when it is full. I did not do it this way to convert back easily, however it would be very easy to convert back to a chest freezer as all holes are in the collar.

EDIT: Forget to mention that I used some small plywood to connect to the holes on the lid from the original hinge, then connected the standard door hinges to that wood. Again the top lid is not that heavy and this holds it fine, just flip it up to the wall. Would also be easy to add a locking mechanism to prevent the top from opening too much as well, but mine is by the wall so I just use the wall as a stop.
Damn...I wish I had seen this sooner...

I wanted to use the old hinges to help keep the collar in place. So I moved them up to the upper hole and had to rip the 2x4 about 1/2" so the hinge would still work the freezer top. Lots of extra work. I should have made my collar a "flip collar". It would greatly ease keg swaps and avoid the clearance issues with the shanks.
 

odie

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having problems sealing the collar. Since the collar will be hinged it has to have a weather strip seal and not caulk, silicone or something else "permanent"

I used the "camper seal" but there are areas around the collar that have a slight gap. It doesn't seem to have enough "play" to seal evenly. That stuff is really meant for truck bed campers that are bolted down in several places. It's rather dense and does not conform enough.

The freezer lid gasket is soft and pliable, allowing it to seal fully. For the "floating" collar to seal properly I'm guessing I need a similar seal for the bottom of the collar.
 

odie

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The bottom of the collar has the foam tape sealing on it as well.
what foam tape did you use? how thick? any tiny air gaps? I'm having issues since the collar is not weighted or held down by anything but gravity.
 

renstyle

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Im just curious as to how many people have actually converted their Keezer back to a regular freezer? I didnt care cause mine was super cheap, but I guess if I bought an expensive freezer to use as my keezer I might like that option.
I needed to do this exactly <one> time.

Shopping for a 4-keg unit a while back, before the covid rush... Picked up a 7.1 thinking I was golden, but it's one of the newer "skinny" units that lack depth to do 4 kegs on the floor, only 3 staggered.

I worked out a trade with a family member for a slightly older used frigidate 8.3 which *WILL* fit 4 on the floor, so I'm moving everything over. Then I'll de-kajigger the 7.1 back into a normal chest freezer so they can use it.
 

Dr_Jeff

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When I had a keezer, I had used multiple layer of particle board, painted it with gloss interior trim paint.
The top was reattached to the collar, I used a bit of foam weather strip on the bottom.
It was heavy enough that it stayed in place simply with gravity and was never attached to the freezer.
It was one of the small freezers, 24x24 I think, it would fit three on the floor and one on the hump. I made a "floor" that fit on top of the three on the floor, so that I could put in bottles and glasses out of coroplast. I work out fine while I had it.
 

Golddiggie

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I skinned the collar with some hardwood to make it look nicer. Plus have the drip trays mounted to it for stability. With using 2x8's for the main part of the collar, I used enough hardwood to extend down the side of the freezer body. A couple of pieces in the back keep it secure on all four sides. Zero need to glue or otherwise secure the collar to the freezer body. IIRC, I put foam on the underside of the collar where it contacts with the freezer. Mainly with the ability to easily convert it back to a freezer if ever needed.

The freezer I picked up has a LED light on the underside of the lid. I was able to keep it wired up by simply removing the restrictive mounting of the connection from the body to the lid. I was ready to add some wires between them, but didn't need to. Since that's not visible (unless you really want to look back there) it's a non-issue.

I do wish I had some better wood working tools for when I made the collar. But, I used what I had. No point in getting tools that would be used rarely, if ever, again for the one project.

I did use gas bulkheads in the side of the collar for the pass through. Made it easier to make the gas system inside. Plus I can change things up pretty easily if I ever need to.
 

TheBluePhantom

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I just silicone mine. I did have to take a collar off a freezer I bought. slit through the silicone and pulled the collar, the rest of the silicone pulled off fairly easily, that plastic is non porous. It really is not hard to convert back as long as you don't make holes or cuts.
 

TenaCJed

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what foam tape did you use? how thick? any tiny air gaps? I'm having issues since the collar is not weighted or held down by anything but gravity.
I used this foam tape, if I remember correctly I put down two pieces for a nice wide piece of foam.
 

NightFlight

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My collar floats on weather stripping, top and bottom. The door is screwed into the collar as you would expect. You can't even really see the weather stripping. I hope to sell this one and get a better Freezer that fits 6 kegs in the same space.
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