My friend, go here and read. You will be set. Well at least until things become obsessive.>> https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Yeast_Startersesimpson1 said:I'm fairly new to the world of home brewing (yes, there's a brand-newbie lurking in your forums!)
With regard to a starter, I've now used both the smack-packs (and they worked well, no additional work on my part) and now the White Labs test-tube variety. I'm still not quite sure I know what I'm doing, especially with regard to making a yeast starter. If I take the White Labs stuff and put it in something sanitized, as far as I know -- I just need to boil up some dry malt extract; small amount (how much?), let it cool and then add the yeast. In a day or two, according to what I've read, I should have plenty of yeast.
First, is that all there is to it?
Second, if you have a proven technique or any pointers (such as mixing yeast strains, etc) I'd love to hear it and...
Third, I'm supposing I can follow the same technique to take yeast from a prior batch and just grow more for the next batch of similar beer?
Don't be confused - back before we didn't know we were doing it wrong that was the right way. And, if you do it that way now you will make perfectly good beer.I am confused now I thought if I used a smack pack that was all i needed . After reading an article its saying I use the smack pack to make my starter...
Well the "right" answer is: That depends on your yeast strain, the quantity and Original Gravity of your wort and the temperature at which you will pitch the wort. If you want to make a real pilsner (even with LME), you need a lager yeast strain. Without it, your beer will have the characteristics of an ale instead of a pilsner (it could still be a good beer). Even if more rare, dry lager yeast exists but if you have dry yeast from a kit, chances are that they are ale yeast.doing a pilsner LME this weekend. was wondering if it's worth it to make a starter or just rehydrate yeast. i have some frozen wort(american light). the few times i've made beer i rehydrated.
This is not a complex procedure but there is a bit more to it. First, you want to keep the Original Gravity of your starter low (between 1.030 and 1.040) as you want to keep the yeast in its growth phase, rather than its fermentation phase. If you boil 1 liter of water with half a cup or so of Dry Malt Extract you should be there. Let it cool at 25°C (77°F) or a bit below. Add some oxygen by stiring it vigourously (15-30 seconds is fine). Add your yeast in a sealed (or almost sealed) vessel (bucket with loose cover is fine but don't expose to air too much after putting the yeast; a vessel with an airlock is the best to insure purity of yeast). Wait between 15 to 24 hours, then pitch in you wort (assumong 5 gal.). Smell the yeast before pitching. If it is infected it will smell bad. If you use White Labs liquid yeast, you don't need to do any of that as their little tube contain enough cells already to ferment a 5 gal wort (of OG < 1.060).If I take the White Labs stuff and put it in something sanitized, as far as I know -- I just need to boil up some dry malt extract; small amount (how much?), let it cool and then add the yeast. In a day or two, according to what I've read, I should have plenty of yeast.
First, is that all there is to it?
Harvesting yeast is possible. I do it all the time but it can be risky, it needs some knowledge and ideally requires some equipments. You can do top croping easily with certain yeast strain. Afterward you need to count the cells (with a microscope) before you make a starter (need 5-6 billion cell per milliliter). Accurately re-pitching yeast is a difficult task for a new home-brewer and often pitch rates when using harvested slurry must be 1.5 time the rate of laboratory grade culture. There are good book on the subject (too lenghty and complex to explain all the techniques).Third, I'm supposing I can follow the same technique to take yeast from a prior batch and just grow more for the next batch of similar beer?